SYMHC Classics: The History of Halloween Candy

Happy Halloween! To celebrate, we're revisiting a 2014 episode. Candy and Halloween go hand-in-hand, but when did candy become the standard for trick-or-treating, and who invented the holiday's most famous sweet treats like candy corn? 

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Episode Transcript

Speaker 1 (00:02):
Happy Saturday, everybody, and happy Halloween. We know a lot
of folks are missing out on trigger treating this year
because of the pandemic. The CDC has listed traditional trick
or treating as a higher risk activity, and a lot
of communities have canceled or modified their usual Halloween celebrations.
So we thought we would close out October this year

(00:22):
with our previous episode on the history of Halloween candy,
since if you can't trick or treat, you can, we
hope at least have the treat part, whether it is
candy or some other thing that you love many so
much candy corn. Uh. This episode does conclude with a
discussion of poisoned candy tragedies, So if you are not

(00:43):
up for that today, uh, that discussion picks up after
the second ad break and you just skip it. Yeah,
And this originally came out on October Welcome to Stuff
You Missed in History Class, a production of I Heart Radio. Hello,

(01:06):
and welcome to the podcast. I'm Holly Fry and I'm
Tray Phoebe Wilson. So I know, uh, as we've been
leading into Halloween, we've been doing some thematic things, and
I know the episode on the Valiska acts murders. It
was pretty grim, so I apologized that was a little
too dark for anybody. So I thought to close out
our Halloween episodes, it would be fun to sweeten things

(01:27):
up a bit and instead of talking about another grizzly
thing this year, as we kind of edge up on
the day itself, we could talk about the history of
Halloween candy uh. There was an episode a couple of
years back that Sarah was on and Kristen Conger guest
hosted from Stuff Mom Never Told You, and they talked
a little bit about candy UH in their history of
trick or treating, but they focused more on sort of

(01:50):
a lot of the other cultural aspects of trick or treating.
So we're gonna dig a little deeper and skip talking
about the costumes and the other trappings of Halloween night
and just focus on the sweet show gree stuff. Also,
in the interest of expectations management, we are pretty much
talking about modern trick or treating UH and how it
has existed in the twentieth century. We're not really going
to talk too much, although we'll touch on it briefly,

(02:12):
about the older historical rituals associated with the holiday. Or
the time of year that are sometimes discussed as sort
of the precursors of the trick or treating tradition. So
we will cover a little bit about how candy kind
of became the star of the show, and then we'll
talk about the history of a candy considered to be
a Halloween classic, even though it is apparently not all

(02:32):
that popular, And because I can't resist a little bit
of ghoulishness, we'll also talk briefly about the various scares
that have happened in the media, uh and in sort
of the urban legend arena about purposely tainted or booby
trapped candy. So to start it off, though, we're gonna
actually talk about a different day than Halloween, near Halloween

(02:55):
that was also about candy. Yeah, before Halloween became the
candy hall to day. I mean, there's lots of candy
associated with lots of other holidays, but candy Halloween is
the big name. So confectioners tried to launch a candy
specific holiday and they called it, in a huge amount
of creativity, Candy Day. Yeah. Candy Day was first launched

(03:17):
in nineteen sixteen, and it would fall on the second
Saturday of October, and it was pitched to the public
as a way to sort of encourage a spirit of
giving and friendship. A lot of the ad campaigns around
it were about take a break and make sure someone
you know is getting candy today. Uh. They also were
trying to allegedly recognize the food value of candy. In

(03:38):
the earlyies, it was even marketed with a campaign to
give candy away to the elderly and orphans, so people
who were candy needy, but really it was a manufactured
holiday to boost profits for candy companies. Candy Day was
even renamed to Sweetest Day to encourage this association with

(03:59):
kindness and generosity, and it continued to be celebrated on
the second Saturday of October right into the fifties and beyond.
I remember calendars when I was a kid having Sweetest
Day on them and be very confused about what that was. Yeah. Uh.
Some US cities still celebrate it, though, and if you
ask most people what they were planning for it, you

(04:20):
would probably be met with a blank stare, which I
think is what happened when I said what is Sweetest Day?
It says it here. I'm a calendar. Yeah, I'm trying
to remember which I know Detroit allegedly still celebrates it,
and I'm trying to remember a couple of the other
cities that I saw. So if you're from any of those,
write us and let us know if they actually are
celebrated or if it's kind of just a holiday that's

(04:42):
on the books, but no one really does anything for
The idea though, of going door to door for treats
on Halloween is believed to have started somewhere in the
early part of the twentieth century, so that is different
from Sweetest Day, although the exact starting point of when
trigger treating really took off is a little bit fuzzy.
But we're talking about somewhere between nineteen hundred and nineteen

(05:04):
teens as the window of when people think it it
was first uh started. Yea that the how and the
why are kind of blurry. Also, there's some speculation that
is Halloween became a night for pranks and vandalism early
in the twentieth century, more organized trick or treating outings
were sort of arranged by communities as a way to

(05:24):
distract people from egging houses and whatnot. This isn't certain, though,
and Sugar rash ing after World War Two broke out
may have gummed up that plan anyway. And despite the
haze of trick or treatings origins, we do know that
by the late nineteen forties and early nineteen fifties it
was pretty established culturally as a tradition. Uh. You know,

(05:47):
most people will say it kind of ebbed and flowed
in terms of popularity, but there is evidence of its
popularity at this point from the world really of entertainment.
So Jack Benny actually made jokes about the practice in
his radio show as early as nineteen forty eight, and
tricker treating appeared in Peanuts comics as early as nineteen
fifty one. In ninety two, there was a Disney cartoon

(06:07):
about Donald Duck's nephew's Huey Dewey and Louie going trick
or treating, So we know at that point tricker treating
was firmly established. So in terms of there being an
actual recognized practice of trick or treating, it's actually really recent.
We're looking back at, you know, seventy years ago. Uh,
And why is candy part of the deal. This is

(06:30):
actually an interesting um sort of sociological, anthropological approach to it.
According to candy historian Beth Kimberly, sugar and this desire
for sugar is an almost instinctive part of preparation for winter.
So even going back to Celtic festivals of fall, I
know we said we were going to talk about those much,
but this is just a brief one. Uh. You know,

(06:51):
part of the activity was that they were using sugar
and then sometimes honey to preserve foods to get through winter.
So to some degree there could be a little bit
of sort of ancient instinct factoring into your craving for
caramel in autumn. You're also adding a little padding to
your person to get through the cold period when fresh
food might not be readily available, or at least you

(07:13):
would be if we needed it, and if we were
in an age, you know, in the modern era where
everything can be preserved and shipped worldwide. We're fortunate enough
in most places that would probably be hearing this to
have access to fresh food pretty much year round. This
is kind of an aside, but last week I went
to a thing called bo Fest, which is the festival

(07:33):
of bad ad hoc hypotheses and basically people make up
these are really off the wall hypotheses that are weirdly
supported by data but are made to be ridiculous, And
this whole candy hypothesis in the wintertime might have had
a good place at that festival. Yeah, it's It's one

(07:53):
of those that's interesting to think about, and I can
see the logic of it. I don't know if I
buy into it, but it's to talk about it is
and by fest is fun and they say, we hope
you learn nothing, because everything they're saying is uh So. Anyway,
once candy companies realized that trick or treating was a
for real tradition, it wasn't long before they started coming

(08:15):
up with waste to capitalize on it by making sweet
treats that had a specifically holiday focus, and initial efforts
on the parts of most of these confectioners were really
focused around not marketing directly to consumers with like special
holiday wraps and Halloween themed candy like we'd see today,
but more to shopkeepers. Uh So, they were pretty much

(08:37):
selling the same normal candy, but they were parceling them,
you know, in their palates and their big shipping cases
as ottumnan Halloween specific in an effort to get those
shopkeepers to promote candy as Halloween drew near, and this
is actually important since at the time candy wasn't the
only giveaway that you might reasonably expect as a Halloween

(09:00):
hand out. Both kool Aid and Kellogg's were marketing their
products it's perfect items to hand out to trick or
treaters in the nineteen fifties, and candy also competed with nuts, fruit,
small toys, and homemade treats. Yeah, if you know Kelloggs
had one, we might all be getting cereal on Halloween,
which is not a bad thing, but it would be

(09:22):
very different holiday. Uh Brocks, which is a company that's
still around and churning out caramels and candy corn, among
other suits, was one of the first companies to market
special Halloween candy directly to the consumer. In nineteen sixty two,
they started putting images of jack O lanterns on their
candy boxes, and this was actually way ahead of most
other candy companies. As we got into the nineteen seventies,

(09:45):
candy makers really started to step up their game, and
this is when marshmallow peeps first started to appear in
special Halloween additions like cats and pumpkins. Um. Those were
originally marketed as witch mellows, and I will just say
to this day the peeps um chocolate moose kiddies are
one of my very favorite Halloween treats. I love them. Uh.

(10:09):
Candy an individual small rapper started to be standard. Companies
were starting to make value add candies as well, so
that you could give those out to ghosts and ghouls
who might arrive on your doorstep demanding sugar. So this
is when candy packs came with rappers that would like
turn into puppets, and boxes would have little punch out
windows so that they could kind of become little temporary

(10:32):
haunted house play set kind of activities. I loved all
that stuff when I was a kid, to like give
me a candy plus an activity to do once I
was full of sugar and I was the happiest child around. Uh.
This is also the time in the seventies when one
of my very favorites UH known as Mr Bones debut
and Mr Bones was a candy skeleton that came in
a little black coffin, so it was basically like bones

(10:54):
and a skull and little pieces. And I would always
spend way too much time putting him together, like I
would make sure that all my bones were laid out
as properly as could be given the candy molds that
they used to create them, and then I would eat
him from the feet up. And I remember I was
getting really dismayed if I had not gotten enough of
the proper parts to make the full skeleton. But I

(11:15):
loved Mr Bones. But before we get to another rather
ghoulish candy trend, do you want to have a quick
word from a sponsor, I sure do so. Gross out

(11:35):
candy first appeared in the nineteen eighties. There was just
a whole trend of disgusting things. I never liked it,
but boy it sure was popular. Yeah, thanks to garbage
candy and garbage pale kids, this completely gross out candy
was now on the scene. And that's when edible eyeballs
and chocolate covered brains first hit the market and there's
just really been no end to the grossness since then.

(11:58):
This turned into a trend and it quickly grew in popularity,
so a lot of companies started offering this gross candy
year round instead of just a Halloween and the year
round trend is something that's sort of ironically is affecting
the way in which candy is now being offered. So
Halloween candy got so popular that people started offering it

(12:19):
year round, But now many candy companies are trying to
find new ways to take the focus off of exclusive
Halloween pushes, so a lot of them are offering treats
that are more sort of autumn focused instead of just
doing Halloween specific packaging. So that way, while the Halloween
uh that's very clearly marked Halloween candy gets marked down

(12:41):
like half off or more on November one, all of
those yummy treats that have more general autumn colored wrappers
and flavors can still be offered at regular price. So
if you think about your local retail store, you probably
can quickly envision Reese's Cups and Hershey's Kisses and other
chocolates and candys that are now sort of wrapped in

(13:01):
like gold russet and copper foil wrappers. And that's part
of why that transition happened. Instead of marketing for one day,
their marketing for a season. Well. This is also reminding
me of like the rebranding of other holidays candies as
Halloween candy, like the advent of Cadbury scream eggs, which
I might need to go find some as soon as

(13:22):
we're done recording. Yeah, that's I have an unhealthy relationship
with the Cadbury Cream and Cadbury Scream mix. So with
all of this, they're hoping that candy consumption will go
right on through Thanksgiving before you transition into the winter
holiday candy. And this makes business sense. Instead of marketing
this one day holiday like Halloween, they can market to

(13:44):
this whole season of candy consumption. Yeah, because candy uh
for Halloween comes out so early now, I mean that's
almost a full half year of just solid candy marketing
by the time you factor in fall and the winter holidays.
In eleven, it was estimated that Halloween candy sales made
up for two point three billion dollars of the six

(14:07):
billion dollars associated with Americans spending around the Halloween holiday.
So while costumes and decor are gobbling up an ever
bigger chunk of the Halloween spending numbers, candy still holds
a strong position. They pull in more than a third
of the consumer dollars that are spent on this holiday.
According to the California Milk Processors Board, The average candy

(14:29):
toting Halloween Jack O Lanard holds two fifty pieces of
candy and that's about nine thousand calories and three pounds
of sugar, which if you are a longtime listener of
the podcast, you know my mother would disapprove of. Yeah,
we kind of had a free for all in our house.

(14:49):
That's one of those statistics that I read, and it
was startling because I know how many times I devoured
a solid half of my bucket or I mean, not
all kids only stick to the Jack galanern. We had
pillowcases some years, just like I remember the trick or
tre getting with pillowcases that we definitely took in more
than three pounds of sugar at a time sometimes. But

(15:11):
now we're gonna shift. Now that we've kind of talked
about how candy and Halloween got married, we're going to
talk about candy corn. And for full disclosure, I love
candy corn so much. This is my one of my
very favorites. I know that's not the case for everyone,
but I love it all caps love It's At the

(15:33):
same time, well, a lot of people really hate it.
I am not one of those people, but a lot
of people hate it, and that is the word they use.
But somehow candy corn remains a standard part of the
Halloween candy repertoire. There are thirty five million pounds of
candy corn made every year, which is nine billion pieces. Yeah,
I read one statistic. Uh, I believe it was at

(15:55):
the National Confectioners Association UM and it They had done
a survey and it was basically like, most people hate
more people hate dislike candy corn than like it. But
those same people say that it's still like a required
part of the holiday, Like it's such a an iconic
element of Halloween candy that they're like, well, you can't

(16:17):
have Halloween without candy corn. Oh, I hate it. But
it's like the people who eat the cranberry sauce from
a can and they don't really know why they do
it at Thanksgiving, but they do because I feel like
they have to. Yeah, it's a pity. They should try
some homemade cranberry song and as an aside. In another
survey that was conducted by the National Confectioners Association, in

(16:42):
they surveyed one thirty five adults about the proper way
to consume candy corn or dy, six point eight percent
felt that you should just pop the whole piece in
your mouth at once. However, very close behind forty two
point seven think that you should start with the narrow end,
which is usually white, but when you get into specially
specialty flavors is different, and ten points six percent things,

(17:05):
starting with the wide end is the way to go.
But I also have to wonder, given what we were
just saying about how many people dislike it, how many
of those respondents said you should throw it out before
actually giving their eating preference. Regardless of how you feel
about it and the reason that we're talking about it today,
it's been around for a long time. Yeah. The invention

(17:26):
of this ubiquitous candy is normally credited to a candy
maker named George Renninger, and he was working at the
Wonderlely Candy Company in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania in the eighteen eighties
when he is said to have first made it. And
there were other convectioners that were making candies with very
similar texture. Uh, and that's sort of just general sugar
flavor that were molded into foliage like you know, leaves

(17:49):
and other nature shapes acorns, etcetera. But Rehninger was the
first to create this multicolored stripe design. It was the
striping that really drew people's attention, and it also made
candy corn a real challenge to make. Kettles of boiling
sugar slurry were mixed with marshmallow and fondent, and this
resulting concoction was poured into buckets. Stringers were men tasked

(18:13):
with walking and pouring out these pound buckets into the
candy molds. Because of the striping, they had to make
three passes to make every batch of candy corn. And
as I was researching this and how they did it,
my first thought was, like, they've never mentioned it, but
that seems like a really dangerous job to me. If
any of our listeners have ever made candy and come

(18:35):
in contact with boiling sugar, it's terrible. That's like an instant,
horrifying burn on your skin. Uh, and it sticks because
it's sugar, so it's really hard to get off, and
the burn gets deeper and worse, like while you're trying
to clean it um. And they didn't talk about that,
but I feel like carrying forty five pound buckets of
this hot sugar mixture seemed had to be like a

(18:58):
high risk of injury or at the very least scalding.
Um not the scalding isn't an injury, but you know
what I mean, Like it just seems rough, extremely bad,
seems like a really dangerous job to me. The process
has really not changed that much today, except that now
it is mechanized, so there is not risk to human skin, uh,

(19:19):
and it's not as time consuming or backbreaking. But other
than that, it's pretty close to the original process. Even
though it's now really closely linked with Halloween. This wasn't
always the case. In the nineteen fifties, there were ad
campaigns promoting candy corn, which had also gone by the
name chicken feed and early incarnations as a summertime street

(19:40):
or something for year round. As with other sweet makers,
the companies that made candy corn really started to focus
their energies on Halloween marketing in the nineteen fifties. So
the fall and Halloween colors of the candy which it
had originally made it a very natural fit for the holiday.
So it's sort of made a home there as it were.

(20:02):
But in recent years candy corn has been made over
as well, just as we talked about other candies taking
on sort of a more seasonal approach, uh, so that
it could, um you know, kind of spread across the calendar.
So Bronx and Jellybelly, which are the two main candy
corn manufacturers today, are trying to keep it relevant year round.

(20:22):
You can get spring colored bunny corn for Easter baskets.
They make pink and red cupid corn for Valentine's Day.
There is red and green reindeer corn at Christmas time.
I think one year, and I'm not sure if this
is a consistent thing that they still offer, but I
remember seeing a fourth of July red, white, and blue
candy corn one year. I don't remember what manufacturer made it.

(20:43):
But they're also innumerable specialty flavors of candy corn available
today in addition to the classic sort of general sugar flavor.
And if you do like candy corn like I do,
um Brox caramel Machiatto flavor this year is my absolute favorite.
I have eaten an absolutely unconscionable amount in the last week. Um.

(21:07):
You can celebrate National Candy Corn Day on October, so
we're right there at it. Go run out and buy
a bag if you want. And if you're not in
the US, you can still celebrate, even though that's one
of our national holidays. Uh. But now that we have
had my candy corn fangirl situation, we're going to talk
about some of the scarier aspects of Halloween candy. But
before that, do you want to take a word from

(21:28):
a sponsor. I do. There's a huge irony to Halloween's
candy collecting tradition. Unlike the rest of the year, when
kids are not supposed to take candy from strangers. On
October one, unless your mother's like my mother and you

(21:51):
only trick or treated at the homes of people you
knew personally and extensively, you're encouraged to do exactly that. Yeah,
the risk inherent in doing so has, of course given
rise to all manner of stories and myths and third
and fourth hand accounts of horrible things that people will
allege really happen to their cousin, sisters, best friends. And

(22:12):
it's completely natural to be fearful of the unknown. There's
certainly enough real life horrors that are reported on the
news all the time to feed the fear of a wicked,
cruel person poisoning candy to pass out to kids on Halloween. Well,
and even with us so many communities having like a
safe trick or treating event. I was always like that
just seems like you could hurt more kids at once. Um, yeah,

(22:35):
I don't know. If we're paranoid. I have very similar thoughts. Yeah,
I'm glad I'm not a parent, because I would be
the mom that never let my kid do any of
this stuff. Right. However, most of the stories of tainted
candy don't really stand up to close their inspection. There
are definitely a few which have made headlines over the
years and Snopes, which I love. Snopes dot Com visit

(22:57):
if you're wondering if something is true or not. They
have a long list of these events. We'll cover just
a few of them. So in a case where there
was actual poison involved, but it seems like not so
much evil intent, stick with me. A woman in Green Lawn,
New York, made a really terrible decision uh when she

(23:19):
decided to teach teams a lesson about being too old
a trick or treat in nineteen sixty four. So Helen
File prepared the special packages of non treats to hand
out to her to hand out to teenagers when they
came to her door for trick or treating, and these
packages had steel wool pads, dog biscuits and arsenic laced

(23:39):
candy buttons, and File told the older kids that she
handed them out to that they were a joke and
that they were in fact poisonous. They had skull and
crossbones on them and poison written on them, and no
one ingested any of them. But she was handing out
poison to kids. So she was charged with child endangerment.
She pled guilty, and she received a suspended sentence. That

(24:00):
just seems like maybe she went a little too far
trying to make her point. Yeah, it seems like the
arsenic laced candy buttons was was one step over the line,
maybe more than one step. It was over the line.
In Detroit, in v Kevin Tossen, who was five, died
after spending four days in a coma following a heroin overdose,

(24:24):
and the drug was found in his Halloween candy. So
while his death was accidental, the family actually staged a
cover up of what had really happened. Kevin had gotten
into his uncle's stash and the family had been sprinkled
heroin into his tricker treat candy in hoping that a
mystery villain would be blamed for it. Yeah, and it

(24:47):
was one of those things that even once the truth
sort of came out that he had actually gotten into
separate from his Halloween candy his uncle's drugs, by that point,
like the newspaper headlines had already read everywhere, you know,
that this five year old had died from poison Halloween
candy or from drug laced Halloween candy. And so that

(25:07):
was really the thing that people remembered. And even though
there was an explanation, uh, that's sort of the fear
was already pretty placed at that point. Um. And then
in ninety four and what was really just a horrible
and tragic event. Uh, there was what initially appeared to
be a legitimate poison candy incident. Uh. There was an

(25:28):
eight year old in Deer Park, Texas named Timothy O'Brien,
and he died after eating tainted pixie Sticks candy after
he went trick or treating on Halloween night. Uh. And
the truly horrific turn of events is that the boy
had been poisoned, but not by a stranger handing out
bad candy. It was in fact the child's father, Ronald Clark, O'Brien,

(25:49):
who was found guilty in the murder investigation around the poisoning. Yeah,
it turned out that the boy's father had handed out
pixie sticks laced with cyanide to his son and daughter
and to a friend's children. And his actual target was
his son because he had taken out a forty dollar
life insurance policy on him. His distribution of the candy

(26:09):
to other kids was to support this story that somebody
at one of the houses where where they had stopped
trick or treating had given out the bad candy instead
of him. He was found guilty in the investigation and
he was sentenced to death. He was executed by lethal
injection almost ten years after the murder of his son
in four And this is one that is bad enough

(26:31):
on its own, But when people retell the story, they
often embellish it and they'll say, exactly ten years later
on Halloween, but now he was executed at a different
time of year. But I've kind of feel like that
one is bad enough on its own. You don't need
to add, you know, poignant timing details to it. So
while there haven't actually been any documented cases of like

(26:55):
widespread distribution of tainted candy, to stranger children. These myths persist,
and parents are understandably fearful. And you know that taking
candy from people you don't know is an inherently risky
thing to do. But if there is an upside to
all of the fear surrounding potentially tainted candy, it's actually

(27:16):
the benefit that it offers candy companies. So parents have
become less suspicious of factory sealed candies and individually ramped
these little smaller packages, uh than they would be of
homemade treats, which used to be a lot more common.
I know when I was trick or treating as a kid,
we had neighbors that would make like popcorn balls, or
we had um one neighbor that would give out. She

(27:37):
would do the little chocolate mold candies of her own
like that would never fly today unless you were going
to like a specific friend's house for a party. You
could not go to a stranger's house and get a
popcorn ball and probably be allowed to eat it once
you got home. Yeah. I remember my mom going through
all of the hallowing candy and throwing away anything that
was suspicious to her, which was mostly stuff that was homemade. Um,

(28:01):
it was even even after only through or treating at
the homes of people that we knew, you know, better
safe than sorry. I mean I kind of can't faulter
for it. I really can't either. You know, she had
your best interests in mind. She sure your kids were safe.
She also had some pretty strict rules about how much
candy we could, Like we are, the Halloween candy at
our house usually lasted a really long time because it

(28:23):
was sort of rationed and little bit on at our house.
It was like a crazy, wild free for all at
our house. We were very horrible. U. So, yeah, that's
sort of Halloween candy through history. A lot of that's
more modern history than we usually cover, but it's one
of those things that we don't really get to kind
of delve into. And it's the perfect time of year
to play around with candy and sweets discussions, which I

(28:46):
always love. So even in some cities today, like I know,
there are a few local police precincts and stuff that
will sometimes do like a candy inspection station on Halloween night,
or you can go and have your candy X ray
to make sure there's nothing dicey in it of a
metal nature or anything. So those are still out there
as safeguards, even though, as we said, there haven't been

(29:08):
any documented cases. If it makes parents feel better, I
think that's great. Uh. And now I just want to
go eat three pounds of candy corn, but I'm probably
alone in that. Thanks so much for joining us on
this Saturday. Since this episode is out of the archive,

(29:28):
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History Podcast at i heart radio dot com. Our old
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(29:51):
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