Mike Yardley: Autumn alpine frolics in Ruapehu

The wondrous Ruapehu region never ceases to amaze me at its capacity to stir all senses, from its expansive platter of leisurely outdoorsy pursuits. It easily ranks as one of my all-time favourite playgrounds in New Zealand and I have revelled in its glories via a multitude of modes in recent years. I have savoured exceptional mountain bike trails, jet boating, quad biking and world-class hiking. Not to mention skiing. But in the autumn months, why not head to the heart of Tongariro National Park and take a ride to the summit of Ruapehu from Whakapapa village?

The radiant Sky Waka, New Zealand’s longest gondola ride, fully warrants the stature as a signature Kiwi experience. I’ve always been in awe of the alpine engineering audacity of the Swiss – and the Sky Waka absolutely projects that same sense of spine-tingling prowess. Spanning 1.8km from the base station and zipping you up 390m, Whakapapa’s dramatically serrated volcanic landscape sweeps you up, as you gawp in wonder out of the glasshouse-like cabin, luxuriously appointed with heated leather seating! Situated at 2,020m above sea level, the cherry on top is Whakapapa Ski Area's Knoll Ridge Chalet which is New Zealand’s highest café. 

 

As you gush superlatives over the horizon-searching views, it’s a novel perch to enjoy coffee from Pātaka, drinks in The Back Bar, or nosh in style while marvelling at the skyline from Knoll Ridge’s giant floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking The Pinnacles. I highly recommend “Tea at 2020m”, Whakapapa’s stirring take on traditional high tea. It’s actually considered the highest high tea on the planet, with a delectable tiered stand of sandwiches, savouries and cakes to work your way through. It’s currently available until the end of April, prior to the mountain’s seasonal switch to winter activities. After feasting on far too many tasty morsels,  the mountain trails were calling. There are over 10km of marked trails to strike out on, ranging from 20 minute strolls to 3 hours return alpine hikes. Without its snow-coat, it’s a compelling way to admire the dramatic terrain and its mash-up of volcanic rock, pumice, scoria and sand.

Close to Chateau Tongariro, there’s a stack of tasty wee tracks. The Tawhai Falls walk is a heart-stealer, leading you through mountain toatoa and beech forest to a waterfall tumbling over the edge of an ancient lava flow. It’s one of two waterfalls used in Lord of the Rings that depicted Gollum fishing, hence its nickname is Gollum’s Pool. (Mangawhero Falls, very close to Waitonga Falls, is the other location that was cast as Gollum’s Pool.)  

It was sad to see the sorry sight of the moth-balled Chateau Tongariro, although the local rumour mill suggests a wealthy Irish businessman is a hot prospect to breathe new life into the grand lady. Just behind the Chateau, Taranaki Falls is a return walk for even grander waterworks. Passing through a mix of tussock, alpine shrublands and beech forest, the track wraps around the lower slopes of Ruapehu, with vintage views of Ngauruhoe’s symmetrical cone. A flock of native birds, including whiteheads and grey warblers, serenaded my stroll all the way to Taranaki Falls, tumbling 20 metres over the edge of a large andesite lava flow which erupted from Ruapehu 15,000 years ago.

Episode Transcript

Speaker 1 (00:07):
You're listening to the Saturday Morning with Jack Teams podcast
from News Talks.

Speaker 2 (00:11):
At B and Travel Corresponded. Mike Yardley is here today,
Kelder Mike.

Speaker 3 (00:17):
Gold to Jack, what do you reckon? We're going to
knock over India tomorrow night.

Speaker 2 (00:25):
Oh yes, no, but I am anxious about not having
met Henry. I'm really anxious about Henry. If we have
no met Henry, I think it's a very tricky. Indeed, God,
I would love to see it though. It's just all on.
You know, it's all in the Indians favorite at the moment,
isn't it being in? You know, it does feel it
does feel a bit rigged. And you know, when you
have a population of coming on two billion versus a

(00:47):
population of just over five million, it's like, wow, come on.
But yeah, no, I'll be I'll be gladly volunteering for
the night shift tomorrow night at our place so I
can see that. Can't wait for them. Yeah, very excellent.
Ten o'clock, I think is first ball name for the
ICC Champions Trophy Final. Anyway, we're focusing this morning on
a few autumn in the Ruapehu district and the region

(01:08):
kind of has outdoorsy adventures for all seasons.

Speaker 3 (01:12):
A.

Speaker 4 (01:13):
No doubt about it, Jack, And before the ski bunnies
rock into town. I think autumn is a fantastic time
to explore the National park because the some crowds have
thinned out yet the weather is still really agreeable. So
if you want to take a really good romp up
Mount Ruapeir, who jump on that skywalker from fucka Papa
Village and check out the mountain trails because there are

(01:37):
about ten kilometers of designated trailers around the higher reaches
of the mountain, and at this time of year it
is such a great chance to admire the dramatic terrain,
that mash up of volcanic rock and Parmesan scoria before
the winter snowcoat arrives.

Speaker 3 (01:54):
So you do it over the next couple of months.

Speaker 2 (01:56):
What altitude does the skywalker climb to?

Speaker 4 (02:00):
Two thy twenty meters? So it's a true alpine gondola.
Often admired the Swiss and their engineering audacity, you know,
with the various cable car systems, but this really is
sort of projecting that same sense of sheer can do
gall and it's actually a whopping ride. It takes a

(02:24):
distance of about two kilometers to get from the base
station up to Nolridge Chalet at the top. So it's
a massive gondola system and if you do take a
ride before the end of April, this is the Cherry
on Top jack at Noleridge Shelley. They are serving New
Zealand's highest high tea. So what could be better than

(02:46):
just scoffing on a teared stand of tasty morsels as
you overlook the pinnacles up top of the mountain.

Speaker 2 (02:54):
At two thousand meters as well. So that's yeah, that's impressive.
If you go a bit love then further blow in
the national Park. What short walks would you recommend?

Speaker 4 (03:03):
Yeah, when obviously a couple of weeks ago we were
a lot of hikers actually just checking out all the
different walks, But I reckon the pick of the bunch
is the Tofi Falls Walk because it's very family friendly
and you get such a great little slice of mountain forest,
all that tour tour and beach forest on the trail
making your way to that waterfall tumbling over the edge

(03:26):
of an ancient lava flow. And of course for movie
fans it's a go to because it was one of
the two waterfalls used in Lord of the Rings that
depicted golumn fishing. Now the track, the Tofie Falls track
that starts close to the chateau, and I have to say, Jack,
it was so sad to see it in such a sorry,

(03:48):
mothballed state. The word is, though, and several locals said
this to me a couple of weeks ago. The word
is A certain billionaire is current currently in negotiations to
breathe new life into that Grand Lady, I hasten to add,
it's an Irish billionaire, not a Canadian this time.

Speaker 2 (04:08):
Okay, Oh what's the space though? Okay, if you're looking
for a bigger kind of day hike, what would.

Speaker 4 (04:16):
You recom Well, I've just knocked off the two Papakura
Falls walk for the first time. So this is on
Fish's Road, just out of National Park Village, and you've
got two choices. Really, It begins with a very easy
twenty minute walk to the Tartanaki Lookout. The reason it's
called that is because you get this very unique perspective.

(04:37):
You can see Mount Tartanaki and Mount Ruapehu from the
same spot, which is pretty cool. But keep going because
beyond the lookout the trail becomes a backcountry adventure track
through the magnificent Urua forest.

Speaker 3 (04:52):
The whole walk will take about four hours.

Speaker 4 (04:55):
To complete, but you just see so many native trees
in that forest and the sweep reward right at the end,
the sparkling lookout on the very long drop of the
two Papakurra falls.

Speaker 3 (05:07):
Do it?

Speaker 2 (05:09):
Hey, what's attracting the crowds to or Fungal.

Speaker 4 (05:12):
Yes, Orfungo is home to the orhennatong A Scenic Reserve
and this is such a gem this place because it
was about a decade ago that the local residents of
or Fungo banded together to bring the BirdLife back to
this unlogged native pottercar forest. The predators had gone killed
the birds, so they decided to kill the predators and

(05:33):
they've sent them packing. So it's now also one of
our national Kiwi Centuries. It is home to a burgeoning
population of native birdies and you've got this fantastic loop
track around the reserve, which is just the ultimate in
forest bathing. I gave a massive six hundred year old
tottter a tree a fresh hug. I had given them

(05:55):
a hug four years ago, and I thought this tall
boy needs a fresh hug. Yes, I'm still a very
absolutely I am still a happy little tree hugger.

Speaker 2 (06:04):
Ah that's nice.

Speaker 3 (06:05):
Yeah.

Speaker 2 (06:05):
Well, and for something kind of curious and quirky close
to Hakun, tell us about the car graveyard.

Speaker 4 (06:13):
For a dose of plastic Keviana. This is just so cool.
So it's Horipito Motors. And this is the place that
featured in both Smash Palace and Goodbye pork Pie. In fact,
the business is nicknamed Smash Palace, so you can see
all of the film and abilia there. But check out
the vast a car graveyard because this place is the

(06:34):
biggest vintage car dismantling operation in Australasia.

Speaker 3 (06:40):
It's like this.

Speaker 4 (06:40):
Enormous op shop for old cars and a lot of
the parts shipped all over the world.

Speaker 3 (06:46):
Truly quirky.

Speaker 2 (06:48):
And is it like like it looks nice, it's not.
It's not like it's a giant dump or anything.

Speaker 3 (06:54):
No, it's sort of orderly.

Speaker 2 (06:56):
Yeah yeah, yeah, yeah, I get it nice, orderly and rustic. Yes, okay,
you go quite literally, I suppose. So that sounds cool.
I like that. I like a off the beating track
kind of Okay, thank you very much. Sir, that sounds great.

(07:18):
To make sure all of those tips are up and
available on the News talk z'b website. The best thing,
the best place to go for everything from our show.
If you just want to go straight through to all
the stuff that we recommend us to, go to news
talks dB dot co dot NZ, forward slash Jack and
we'll have links to everything there.

Speaker 1 (07:34):
For more from Saturday Morning with Jack Tame, listen live
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