November 30, 2024 • 98 mins
This week on the show, ZB's Resident Builder Pete Wolfkamp discusses the latest issues impacting the world of construction - and answers questions!
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Speaker 1 (00:06):
You're listening to the Resident build Up podcast with Peter
wolf Camp from News Talks at Bay.
Speaker 2 (00:19):
The house is a hole, even when it's darks, even
when the grass is overgrown.
Speaker 3 (00:26):
In the yard, even when.
Speaker 2 (00:29):
A dog is too old to borrow, And when you're
sitting at the table trying not to stop in the
house scissor home, even when we are band gone, even when.
Speaker 4 (00:45):
You're there alone, you know.
Speaker 2 (00:57):
A house sizzle hole, even when those goes, even when.
Speaker 5 (01:03):
You got around from the world, you love your move.
Speaker 4 (01:07):
Screamed bling pains being.
Speaker 6 (01:10):
In fund the world.
Speaker 2 (01:12):
Locals lisball when they're going.
Speaker 7 (01:14):
Leaving the.
Speaker 2 (01:17):
House, even when web Ben love even when you're there.
Speaker 4 (01:25):
Lone alrighty, oh, good morning.
Speaker 8 (01:50):
Welcome, Welcome, Welcome. I hope that you've had a good week.
My name is pepe off Camp, the Resident Builder, and
this is the Resident Builder on Sunday. So we are
here to talk about your place, to talk about all
things building and construction. So as I say, I trust
that you've had a good week. For those of you, well,
I think South Island had a fair amount of rain.
We've certainly had well steady rain, which came as a
(02:12):
bit of a surprise after what was a tremendous day
on Friday. It was hot, it was still, it was light,
and then Saturday has been a bit sort of but
ho hum, hasn't it And it's still raining this morning,
which is probably what do there we say anytime rain
comes and it's not too bad, Oh, it's good for
the garden. Well it probably has been, so yeah, it
(02:34):
was raining last night, which meant that no one could drive,
which means in the motorways were all blocked up and
trying it. I was just ready to start a couple
of jobs around the house, and maybe I'm taking the
weather as an excuse not to crack into a few things.
So if you're thinking, gosh, my excuse for not getting
started is I'm not quite sure what to do, then
the show is for you. I'm not offering up other excuses,
(02:56):
the other ways of getting out of doing jobs. I'm
offering to you the opportunity to talk about a project
that you might have or a dilemma that you might
be facing around the house, and we can look for
some suggestions and some solutions to those challenges that we have.
So the lines are open. The number to call, oh
eight hundred eighty ten, eighty. You can text, of course,
(03:17):
because it is you can text through that's nine two
nine two or ZEDBZB from your mobile phone. And if
you'd like to send me an email, you're more than welcome.
Speaker 2 (03:25):
To do that.
Speaker 8 (03:26):
It's Pete at NEWSTALKSEDB dot co dot Nz. So Pete
at NEWSTALKSEDB dot co dot Nz. Righty, oh, well, construction
has been so much in the news recently, lots of
stuff around social housing networks, community housing providers, which is well,
(03:46):
it's an important issue. I'm more than happy to talk
about it on the show this morning. And also, well,
I guess the most significant thing is today is the
first of December. So if you start to think about
getting the house ready for Christmas, if you're starting to
think about perhaps getting some trade, e's in to get
some jobs. This is the classic Christmas rush sort of
(04:07):
hasn't felt like it's really kicked off this year. It's
been a quiet year, right for most tradespeople. So typically
that Christmas rush, which might start sort of late October,
sometimes early October if it's been a good year, doesn't
really feel that it's there right now. But if you
do have a project that you'd like to get started
(04:28):
and get finished more importantly before Christmas. Well, today's the
first of December. You need to get underway with it.
So if you'd like to call, oh, eight hundred eighty
ten eighty is that number to call. We are back
to sort of normal scheduling today on the program No
Rugby Commentary. The All Blacks obviously have finished their Northern tour,
so Rid will join us at as regular time at
(04:49):
around eight point thirty this morning through till nine o'clock.
We have Bryce McDermott from Razine Paints. He will be
available to answer any of your specific painting questions. Let's
do that at around seven forty five this morning, So
Bryce at seven forty five this morning. If you've got
any specific painting questions that you would like to ask
(05:11):
of Bryce, he will be available, as I say, from
seven forty five this morning, Oh eight hundred eighty ten addy. Though,
Now if I'm getting some texts already, that's great. If
you've got any building questions or want to make some
comments around building and construction, oh, eight hundred eighty ten
eighty is the number to call. First text was all
(05:31):
about the song I'm not even going to go there right, yeah,
good morning, regular caller. However, throat isn't suitable for radio
this morning. Any ideas on this. I have a unit
with jib painted unit with a jib painted wall that
meets a plywood roof and need to sort out a
flashing to finish it off. At a loss what to
know what might look good or work well? Kind regards
(05:54):
from Paul what jumps to mind. So if you've got
plywood ceiling or a plywood roof and then you've got
plasterboard running up to it is if it's already done,
it's a little bit too late. But if I was
building it from scratch, I would probably look at like
(06:15):
a little negative detail, a little flashing. There's various different
jib flashings. They're made by jibs metal flashings that will
allow you to have like a little negative detail. So
you'd have the plasterboard running into the wall, then you
put in a little negative detail and then bring your
plasterboard or you had to have your plywood rather running
(06:35):
into the wall, put in a negative detail and stop
up to that, and you end up with like a
little ten mil bead or ten mil recess running around
the perimeter that would look really tight and tidy. I
guess now, Paul, for you just a scotia and then
painted in with the wall color. If you pre paint
the scotia before it goes up, then you don't. Cutting
(06:58):
in becomes a little bit easier as well, especially when
you're trying to do paint to plywood, which is probably
going to be clear finished. Cutting in along there is
always a bit of a challenge. So if you prepaint
the scotia, it's much easier to tidy that up later on.
Oh eight one hundred eighty ten eighty is the number
to call. We'll talk all things building construction, and we'll
(07:19):
have a crack at a little bit of plumbing as well. Simon,
good morning to you. Gosh, there is something with the screen, gotcha? Silent? Simon, Hello, Sorry,
go for it.
Speaker 9 (07:30):
Okay. I have an old brass tap and I removed
I wanted to replace the washer if they want. It's
not a rubber one. It's one of those light brown ones.
Speaker 8 (07:45):
Yeah. They almost feel sort of fiberish, don't they.
Speaker 9 (07:48):
That's right?
Speaker 5 (07:49):
Yeah?
Speaker 8 (07:49):
Yeah.
Speaker 9 (07:49):
And the old one, I I can't get it off.
It just seems to be completely.
Speaker 8 (07:58):
As kind of embedded. Yeah, used together and so I.
Speaker 9 (08:06):
Ended up up doing was putting a new one over
the top of the old one, but it left me
with very little thread to screw the little nut back
on the back onto the TAP's the one that closes
off the water from coming in. So do you know
how I can get the old washer off?
Speaker 8 (08:29):
I would have thought that to be if it was me,
I would just attack it with a sharp knife. Right
in the sense that the washer itself, the fibrous one,
sits or beds against a plunger, and the plunger is
made of brass. So in the end, as long as
you're a little bit delicate, you can't really damage the
plunger as such. So I just set to it with
(08:51):
a knife, cut around the perimeter of it and then
cut it into pieces, cut it off, maybe use a
wirebrush to clean it up, and then you can seat
your new washer onto the plunger and have more turns
on the thread of the nut that goes that holds
it in place. Yeah, yeah, right, you don't have to
(09:11):
be I mean, you have to be a little bit delicate,
but you know it's it's metal versus fiber, so it'll
be fine.
Speaker 9 (09:17):
Oh okay, Can I ask you another quick question, Do
you know what a wet back is?
Speaker 8 (09:23):
Yes, So, a wet back typically is a system where
let's say you have a an argur or you know,
a type of wood burning fire, you know, either for
cooking or for heating. And then what people will do
is they'll set up a system of pipework behind there
that will have water flowing through it. The water is
(09:46):
then heated by the appliance, by either the ivan or
something like that. And what it does is you can
use it if you've got sufficient storage for all of
your water supply, or I think most commonly people use
it to preheat the water going to the cylinder. So
if so, for example, cold water is twenty two or
(10:09):
twenty three degrees, typically the maximum temperature we want coming
out of a cylinder is fifty five degrees. So if
the water coming in is already at forty degrees, for example,
because it's passed through the heating system at the back
of the wet bag, then you're using less energy to
get the temperature up. That's as I understand, that's how
the theory, that's how it works. Oh yeah, right, I was.
Speaker 9 (10:34):
Asking is because my plumber was doing some work under
the house, and there was some kind of flu that
was under the house that was going out to the side.
So I've got around the house, I've it's all closed in. Yes,
it's raised lawboards, and it was connected to one of
(10:58):
the vents on the underside of the house. So you
know how you've and you've the in the house when
you've got raised floor, it's got the concrete around on
the perimitive the house and all the events. So one
of the events has this flu attached. And the plumber said, oh,
(11:21):
that looks as though it might be to do with
an old wet back, and I was wondering what that was.
Speaker 8 (11:30):
Yeah, okay, I mean a flu typically flues run vertically
up right, they don't necessarily run across. Yeah, it's it's
it's quite possible. It's unusual, but it is quite.
Speaker 9 (11:45):
Possible, Okay, Because I was just wondering whether I could
just remove it.
Speaker 8 (11:50):
Look, I think I would trace it along from outside
to underneath the house, and if ultimately, if you get
to the end of it or where something was attached
to it, and nothing is attached to it, then yes,
you could remove it. Yeah, what's your existing hot water system,
what's the heating system.
Speaker 9 (12:08):
Electric ok yeah, low pressure.
Speaker 8 (12:12):
Yeah, okay, so that'll have that doesn't need to be flu,
but it will have an overflow so that if the
pressure builds up inside the cylinder, it overflows and the
water should flow to the outside of the building. Right,
So obviously that's a different thing. But yeah, the flu. Look,
if it's if it's not attached to anything you've been
under there, go ahead and rip it out.
Speaker 9 (12:35):
Yep.
Speaker 8 (12:35):
All right, nice to talk to you. Sign all the
best by your new salk seed B. If you've got
a question of a building nature, eight hundred and eighty
ten eighty is that number to call. So one good
morning to you.
Speaker 10 (12:52):
Morning.
Speaker 8 (12:53):
How are you morning, mate, I'm very well in yourself.
Speaker 3 (12:56):
Good, good.
Speaker 11 (13:03):
Question.
Speaker 12 (13:03):
I'm gonna love with them. I'm gonna go doing some
work and realize the platting they're still clading is getting
for us. And I saw some stuff like ants and
stuff crossing handier and it looks like we need to
change it. And knowing that lockhood, the builders are quite hesitant. Yeah,
(13:27):
anything inside outside, So just when I get some some
ideas though, the people whom I can call or what's it.
Of course, we're looking at if there's any standard costing.
Speaker 8 (13:40):
When you say that the clouding is starting to deteriorate,
or you said it's getting poorous, what do you like
is it? Is it no longer weather type, which would
be unusual, or is it just an issue around Obviously
over time, some vermin, you know, some ants and that
sort of thing I've managed to make their way into.
Speaker 12 (13:58):
It's it's all time issues. A bit of sun and
what if you are the natural elements working on it,
I've got to an excellent depend on it. It's still seen,
but you can see underneath or where the cladding is
close to the nown you could see again there's a
lot it's more deterioration there.
Speaker 8 (14:16):
Yeah, the mud or.
Speaker 12 (14:20):
Other boots as well.
Speaker 8 (14:22):
And this is one of those things that it's often
a maintenance issue over time. And I'm guessing you know,
if it's an older lockwood home, it could be sort
of forty years old something like that. Yeah, okay, well
that's forty years ago.
Speaker 6 (14:36):
Now.
Speaker 8 (14:36):
It doesn't feel like forty years ago, but it is.
It's anyway, long story, and sometimes with some of the
earlier Lockwoods, it was a metal cladding rather than a
timber cladding. Is it a metal or timber cladding.
Speaker 12 (14:55):
Its timber cladding.
Speaker 8 (14:56):
It is timber. Okay, Look, I think the great thing
with lockwood is that they're still around, right, So I
would suggest that your first call is actually to them
to go, hey, look, I've got an older building. It's
still in good condition, but I need to do some work.
You know, are there some local experts that I could
call on? And I'm sure that within their network of
(15:18):
builders and so on, they would still have people who
are involved, So I think that would be a good
source of information. Otherwise, typically, if the profile of the
weather board is still available, or if you needed to
do enough of it that it warranted the cost of
paying to have the weatherboard's custom made, just fixing the
weatherboards that are an issue you could do. I suspect
(15:41):
that the way in which we did vermin treatment forty
years ago is quite different to today. So today, if
we've got a cavity on most cladding, which we do,
there is a little you know, there are a variety
of pre made strips that will essentially prevent vermin from
getting in there, saying that ants would get through, but
other vermin won't. So it's really about mice and other
(16:05):
creatures like that to get in and nest in the cladding.
So you could go through if you really wanted to
and address that. If the ground level, and we see
this all the time on buildings. You know, a building
is built and then over time people build up garden
beds and raise levels and start to get closer and
closer to the cladding. Ideally, at a bare minimum, you
(16:27):
should have about a fifty millimeter gap from the bottom
of your cladding to any other ground surface, right, particularly
something like a garden bed. So again, if the garden
beds have grown and raised in height, strip those back
and lower those levels. Allow those boards to ventilate. If
those boards have been rotten become rotten, you could replace
(16:48):
those boards. But I think as the first step i'd know,
given that the company is still in existence and will
be for years to come, I'd get in touch with
Lockwood directly and just go, hey, look, put me in
touch with someone. Good luck at work today, Yeah, go yeah,
thank you all the best, go go go.
Speaker 11 (17:09):
Yep.
Speaker 12 (17:11):
You mentioned something about the metal clanning. We've got to reserve,
to reserve at the back of the house, and more
than most that's a common problem. The thing is could
be one of the option if Firings lock with home
and discuss that, or that's something you wouldn't recommend.
Speaker 8 (17:29):
A look In terms of no, I think I probably.
Speaker 5 (17:35):
No.
Speaker 8 (17:36):
I'd look at it and go in the end even
if it, you know, whatever the cost of doing some
remediation and some repairs, it will be considerably less than
the cost of a reclad And unless you said to me, look,
the cladding is an extremely poor condition, I would say
it doesn't strike me as an economic or environmentally friendly
(17:58):
solution to rip off a whole bunch of clouding that's
actually serviceable to replace it with a different type of platting.
That would be my approach.
Speaker 12 (18:06):
All right, now that makes sense.
Speaker 8 (18:08):
Good of you to call take care, enjoy your work today,
take care your news, stork seed. But as this is
quite in contrast to a job that I went to
look at sort of like a little community project. Hey, look,
can we do some work on this building to restore
it and get it more functional for the community, et cetera,
et cetera. But to be fair, it was in such
poor condition. You know, there were weather boards that had rotted,
(18:31):
There were weather boards that had rotted, and fallen off
or been ripped off by vandals, and then the cladding
had been or their framing had been exposed for such
a long period of time that there was extensive rot.
So it's one of those ones where you go along
to look at it and people go, oh, can we
tidy up some weather boards and repaint it? And I'm
looking at it going, well, probably fifty percent of the
(18:52):
weather boards on this elevation anyway of the building, on
one wall of the building are unserviceable. They're either completely
rotten or they're missing. Then beyond that, I can see
that in some cases fifty percent of the stud has
been and is missing, so that's got to then be replaced.
So what starts as a little job, and I'm sure
(19:12):
for many of us as home owners, this is familiar territory, right,
what starts as a little job just suddenly just spirals
out of control in a sense and becomes a much
much bigger job involving reframing parts of the building, which
also removes which means you've got to remove the internal lining.
So suddenly patching a weatherboard becomes replacing studs, replacing internal lining,
(19:36):
stopping painting inside new weather boards on the outside. Can
you get that particular profile, you can see how jobs
grow sometimes, Oh, eight hundred and eighty ten eighty is
the number to call. Will come back straight after the break.
Thank you to the texter who's come through and just said, Pete,
there's a really good Facebook group called DIY Lockwood. I
haven't looked at it. I can't vouch for it, but
(19:58):
if it's good and the advice is sound, every now
and then you do have to be a little bit
cautious about the advice. And some of the stuff you
see online, isn't it. I mean, that's it. I'm telling
you nothing you don't know. But sometimes in terms of DIY,
because look, I watch videos online as well of different
carpenters and different trades people doing things, and every now
and then I just kind of go, oh, I hope
(20:21):
people don't follow that particular piece of advice. But then
I'm playing in that space as well at the moment.
So we've got a YouTube channel that's being built and
a library of topics and discussion and top issues for
discussion are being loaded into that. So I'd like to
think that I'm a little bit more considered than some
(20:41):
in terms of the opinions that I might offer. But
that's up and running on YouTube as well. You search
for it under resident builder or Peter wolf Camp. You'll
find it there. Building up a library there quick text
as well. Hey, I'm looking at purchasing a property in Wellington.
The property needs a retaining wall to be fair. If
you've been to Wellington, you'll understand why most properties have
retaining walls. The property needs a retaining wall between the properties.
(21:02):
Who pays for it higher the lower or both regards gilly,
I would suggest that whoever gets the benefit of it
pays for it. So if you're on the high side,
and for example, you want to level out your lawn,
for example, you know where it's sloping at the moment,
you're thinking, I'd like to have a nice level lawn,
So I'm going to put a retaining wall on the
(21:23):
boundary and that will give me a level lawn. Then
you will pay for it, and it will need to
be on your side of the fence. If, for example,
you're on the lower side of the slope and you're thinking, well, actually,
if I retained a little bit of that bank, I
could create a level area in there as well. And
so it's in your benefit, but you're on the lower side,
(21:43):
then it would be on your side of the boundary
and you would need to pay for that as well.
So retaining walls not like fences in terms of being
able to seek a contribution from a neighbor. I don't
think oh, eight hundred eighty ten eighty is the number
to call and David, a very good morning to you, A.
Speaker 13 (22:04):
Very good morning, Peter. I've even intrigued with these packets,
like from trade tested. I was synthetic decking tiles, you
know kind of I think met a meter squag about
ten to a bundle. But I was thinking, I've got
a decking outside decking. It's twenty five mil highness. And
(22:29):
when the builder put it in, I queried the you know,
it's about forty years old. Now I queried the thickness
and he said no, I've got the bearers closer together
than normal. So I don't know he's a builder or not.
And anyway, I just thought, well to reinforce that deck
and make it newer. Are these synthetic? I don't know
(22:51):
if that plastic wood or all plastic. Have you any
dealings with them?
Speaker 8 (22:57):
As in a side I did buy four outdoor chairs
from trade tested just the other day. But that's not
really what you're asking about. Very nice cheers by the way,
But okay, so it's synthetic decking tiles one of the
issues meter square right, okay, oh yeah, I can see
(23:19):
them here, so.
Speaker 13 (23:21):
We also I asked, you know, I queried it and
it said yes, can be laid it straight over top
of wooden decking.
Speaker 8 (23:28):
I just wanted to job, right, Okay, okay, So I'm
looking at them now. So what they what they are
is you've got the decking material, but underneath you've got
like a plastic grid, right, And that was going to
be my concern is that if you put you know,
another surface on the top of your pine and there's
no ability, like, you won't stop the moisture. So moisture
(23:50):
will get trapped between the two surfaces and that will
accelerate the decay. So timber is treated in a different
way depending on what the conditions of its use are.
So something that is all going to be saturated like
it's in the ground or so on, gets treated to
a higher level. Timber that is treated for outdoor use.
(24:13):
H three typically is designed to get wet but to
dry out. But if you ended up sandwiching something over
the top of your existing decking and it wouldn't dry out,
then it would accelerate the decay. In this instance, here
the packs of deck tiles actually have a plastic grid
underneath them, which means that there will be airflow between
(24:36):
your new surface and your old surface, in which case, yeah,
I mean that would be my primary concern is the airflow.
Speaker 13 (24:44):
Well, the original decking in between the planks, you got
the gaps, and.
Speaker 8 (24:51):
Yes, but you imagine if if imagine, if you were
just to go out and lay decking straight over the
top ninety degrees to your existing one, every intersection would
have a space of let's say ninety by ninety where
the two surfaces would be held together, and you'll get
moisture trapped in their and you'll get decay. Whereas, I'm
not necessarily promoting this particular product, but from what I
(25:13):
can see there is it's elevated, which allows for drainage
and for ventilation. So yeah, it's to be fair, it's
not a solution that I've ever thought of, but that's
quite clever. That's out of the box thinking I can't
see downside to it. I mean, it would be interesting
to know what when they say synthetic, you know what
(25:36):
that actually is.
Speaker 13 (25:41):
Yes, I don't know, but it just says it takes
heat and that there's a certain amount of expansion and
that word.
Speaker 8 (25:48):
Oh no, it is a timber, it's and the good
thing is it's FSC. So this is the Forest Stewardship Council.
This is actually just isn't aside really important if you're
ever considering buying timber, perhaps from overseas in particular, or
timber a product that has timber that has sorn and
(26:09):
sourced overseas. So the Forest Stewardship Council is a worldwide
organization that you can apply to have your product sort
of licensed by them or endorsed by them, And in
order to do so, you need to prove that it's
been logged in a sustainable manner and that you've met
(26:29):
certain environmental requirements. So the fact that this item or
these products actually have FSC registration is good.
Speaker 14 (26:41):
Is a good right?
Speaker 8 (26:42):
Yeah, well, no, it's good in terms of it's good
that you know the manufacturer has gone to the Forest
Stewardship Council to seek their approval for the manner in
which they harvest the timber, because you know, we've all
seen pictures from South America and from Southeast Asia where
(27:03):
you know, indiscriminate logging has destroyed enormous swaths of the planet.
Right now, you don't want to be buying timber from
people that collect it in that way. You want to
be buying timber from companies that do some sort of
environmental management or they're replanting and that sort of thing,
and only and those sorts of companies will get this
(27:24):
FSC registration, which I think is really really important. Yeah, look,
no reason for me to say you can't do it.
I think it would work.
Speaker 13 (27:35):
Okay, That's that's all I wanted to know.
Speaker 8 (27:37):
To be fair, it's a solution that I hadn't thought of.
So I like that as well. And if I steal
your idea, I'll think of you. Thanks a lot, David,
you take care. That's great. To be fair, it wouldn't
be the first idea that I've stolen from this program.
That is the nature of this program. People offer ideas,
and every now and then I'll walk away and go
(27:58):
that's a good one. Oh eight hundred eighty ten eighty
is the number to call. Will take a short break
back with philp in just a moment you and new
talks there'd be The lines are open the number to
call eight hundre at eighty ten eighty and our expert
guest Bryce McDermott from Razine Paints will join us in
the next hour. So if you've got any specific painting questions,
feel free to text those through right now to nine
(28:18):
to nine two and Bryce will be with us in
the next hour. A couple of other texts with regard
to the retaining walls pete retaining Could it be the
person who alters the natural layer of the land. Yeah,
that's another way of looking at it, but it's I
think the clearer way of looking at in terms of
who would be liable for a retaining wall and who
would pay for one if there's not one there already
(28:40):
is sort of who gets the benefit of it, And
obviously who gets the benefit of it is the one
who's going to alter it for their benefit. So again,
if you're on the top and you want to level
out part of your section and you're going to build
a retaining wool, then you're going to pay for it,
and it's going to be on your side of the boundary.
Oh eight hundred and eighty ten eighty is the number.
(29:01):
Call Phil A very good morning to you.
Speaker 7 (29:05):
Yeah, yeah, look, this might be something for Bryce. I
just he'll be on later on. But I've got a
Galvani signed roof yep that I was wanting to get painted.
But I've been hearing them advertising about sealing a roof
rather than painting it, and I wasn't too sure what
(29:25):
that was about, or whether one was better than the other.
Speaker 8 (29:28):
Maybe you could help, Yeah, yeah, it's an interesting thing
that's kind of a It's obviously a new product and
a new notion around what do we do to protect roofs? Right? Look,
I've painted any number of roofs over the years, and
you know, typically what we would do is clean off
(29:50):
any rust, do some spot prime, applying the Titian primer,
and then apply a couple of top coats over the top.
And without a doubt I know that when I have
done it, or when other people that I've been involved
with have have painted roofs, it does protect the roof
and extend it's life, right, which is what it's all about,
the notion of sealing it is doing exactly the same thing.
(30:13):
But I think what they're looking at is the application
of the product. The final coat might be a little
bit thicker or would be a little bit thicker, so
we're talking microns here. Ultimately, this is what I think
it all comes down to is the preparation. Right. So,
if you've got an old roof which is in poor condition,
(30:34):
and you're thinking, I want to extend the life of
the roof and push back that time that you have
to spend the money and do the reroof, and you're
looking at it and you're going, okay, well, look what
I'll do is I'll get it sealed, for example, and
that will give me more time. It's still going to
be about the preparation. So you know, you still need
to remove the rust, you still need to do the
(30:56):
treatment of the rust. You still need to have an
adhesion primer, you need to make sure the surface is
thoroughly cleaned. And then yes, if you apply a sealer
coat over there that's of ational thickness, it will in
my mind, that will give you more time. Yeah, So
I think it's it's always about preparation, and that would
be doubly true because you know, particularly if the notion
(31:20):
is that somehow. You know, a viscous material, a liquid
material is applied over the top and that will address
your issues with a gulf sized ball hole in the roof, right,
you know, I don't I don't think that's reasonable to that.
But if if she was even I was looking at
my garage roof. So here's me talking about roofs. But
(31:41):
I've never painted the garage roof because it was always
my intention to replace it. It's got you know, rust
all over the top of it. It's not leaking, but
eventually it will deteriorate. So you know, if I was
to paint that, I'd want to make sure that I
got rid of the surface rust, that I applied some
rust primer to those areas or rust treatment to it,
and then the adhesion primer and then the top coats,
(32:03):
and that would be the same all over the place.
Speaker 7 (32:06):
Yeah, because from from what I sort of heard, it
was it had it was part of it was a
rubber compound.
Speaker 8 (32:13):
So you know, again it's that it's a viscous material,
like a thicker material that will go over the top
and that will work as long as it sticks right,
as long as it bonds to the surface, And that's
always about the preparation. So I think if you if
you were making inquiries about it, the question would be
how do you do the preparation? How do I know
(32:34):
that that you know, what are the guarantees that sort
of thing.
Speaker 7 (32:38):
Yeah, I've seen sort of you know, like on an
old roof that's been painted. When it deteriorates, you get
the paint will start to flake, but you can usually
sort of paint over that. And I was thinking, oh, well,
if that happened with a something that had a rubber
sort of coaching on it, then that might be you know,
the roof might have to be replaced. Then you know
(33:00):
that that would be much too much of a job
to sort of see it again, to reprepare it. I suppose.
Speaker 8 (33:08):
Yeah, I think there probably has to be a point
at which you say, look the substrate, the actual metal
underneath the roof, it has deterior to such a point
that no matter how much more material I put over
the top of it, it's still going to need replacement. Right,
But then it's amazing how long you can eke things
out for. So again, there's a property that I look
(33:30):
after which has got it's only a small roof on
a little lean to at the back of a bricontile unit.
It had metal on it. It's got very low fall
ponds with water. I've put so many coats of various
liquid membranes over the top, but hey, fingers crossed right now,
it's still weather type, you know. So all I've been
able to do is just push back that inevitable date
that I might have to say it's time to replace it. Yeah, preparation, preparation, preparation.
Speaker 6 (33:57):
Just well, I.
Speaker 7 (33:58):
Suppose one thing, Dad, when we got the new roofine
it was galvanized then, yes, sold just to let it
you make use of the of the oxidation protection from
the galvanizing. And I suppose we've done that but probably
left it, you know, sort of ten years.
Speaker 8 (34:16):
But this is your the roof. Is it galvanized or
is it zincaloom?
Speaker 7 (34:21):
Some are zinc aloon and some as galvanized. Right, it
all looks about the same now. So it's got a
few russ areas I suppose around some of the screw
and our hold, but yeah, generally it's not too bad
that it's probably the time it needs some sort of
treatment on it, just to let a roof oxidize for
(34:45):
a few years.
Speaker 8 (34:45):
Is that a Well, that's absolutely fine. Yeah, absolutely, Bearing
in mind that galvanized roofing iron and zincaloo roofing iron
are two different products, right, and they perform over time differently.
So again, as it happens when we did the roof
(35:06):
on our own home and when I did the extension,
I just wanted zincaloom, right, I just wanted it to
be and I've left it and I could leave that
as it is for the forever, right and until the
roof needs replacing and shivers. It's already almost twenty years old, right,
and that's zincaloom, right, and I've got no deterioration. But
that's because it's zincaloom. Galvanized iron works differently because it's
(35:29):
a galvanized coating to the iron, and so once that
the corrosion starts to penetrate through the galvanizing gets into
the actual iron, that's where you'll get rust happening. Okay, Yeah,
so worth having a bit of a read around the
difference between galvanized iron and zincloom. There are two different products.
Speaker 7 (35:49):
Okay, And if you went for the painting, that'll be
the same thing. Again, make sure it's all.
Speaker 8 (35:54):
Preparation, preparation, preparation, absolutely, yeah, always as shortcuts there. Nice
of you to call Phil. Thanks, you have a great
day to take care all of this. It is coming
up eleven minutes away from seven o'clock. We'll be back
with Tony after the break. You would talk, it'd be
we've got news coming up top of the hour at seven.
But right now, Tony, good morning, Good morning, Peter.
Speaker 15 (36:15):
It's good to talk to you again. And you I
rang you about a year ago and we had a
flooded house. It's now being bought out Category three and
I've bought another property, which is good news. I've got
to move on with my life. And I had a
building inspection done, but we've purchased it anyway. But there's
(36:35):
a concrete landing and steps which goes up to the
front door, and the underneath concrete landing you can see
all of the reinforcing has become exposed. And when they
did a building inspection, they said to me, water has
been penetrating through the concrete, causing the rust in the steel,
(36:58):
and then then some of the not much just like
the surface of the concrete has fallen away. Now he's
suggestion was that I needed to take all of the paint.
That's because it's fifty one years oldest house, take all
the paint off the landing, and then put a he said,
a good quality celant on and then obviously paint it
(37:19):
over the top. But I haven't got a clue what
sort of product put on there.
Speaker 8 (37:24):
Yeah, I mean, look, that's that's reasonably sound advice. So
how many like how big is the stairs? Is it
like two steps up to the front.
Speaker 15 (37:33):
Door or I know there's about the steps seem to
be all right, there's about ten.
Speaker 8 (37:38):
Steps, okay, all right, so that's great.
Speaker 15 (37:40):
And then you've got this landing, which is a normal
sized concrete landing. When it goes penetrates just into a
recess for the front door, and it's the area underneath
where the steels exposed is about about a foot by a.
Speaker 8 (37:54):
Foot, right, okay, all right, Well, look I think treating
the corrosion would be a good idea as well.
Speaker 15 (38:03):
So what's oh yeah, I'm trying to do that.
Speaker 8 (38:05):
Yeah right, great, okay, so you kind of strip back
any loose material and then treat the corrosion, so a
rust converter and then some russ primer. Then you'll need
to do some patching, so you'll need a sementitious based
product that you can use with some adhesion to patch
the area and make the steps and the rises smooth again.
Speaker 15 (38:28):
And then so what is a semious?
Speaker 6 (38:30):
Oh?
Speaker 8 (38:31):
So, like there's there's lots of products. They're almost like
a powder that you can mix up now that are
designed for repairing masonry. Right, so if you've got gaps
and cracks and masonry, you can use different products. Typically
they're either Seeker or see Mix and so on. Are
two brand names that do this sort of thing. Then
(38:53):
so are they painted at the moment or are they
just exposed painted?
Speaker 15 (38:58):
The steps are not painted, it's the top landings painted
and it's like the paints cracked. I would say it's
a good ten years since thenybody painted it at least
and then obviously water's got in under the paint and
some of it's blistered.
Speaker 11 (39:13):
Yeap.
Speaker 15 (39:15):
Would I take all the paint off completely, like put
a grind on it?
Speaker 8 (39:19):
I probably would, because of course, what you know, inevitably
what happens is the paint deteriorates with the paint surface
deteriorates and loses its grip. On the concrete below. So
if you just supply paint over the top of paint
that might flake off later on.
Speaker 15 (39:38):
Then yeah, that's my thinking.
Speaker 8 (39:40):
Yeah, saying that if and I've only got thirty seconds,
So if if the paint doesn't come off, let's say,
if you hit it with a tungsten scraper or some
coarse sand paper or something like that, then it's probably
sound enough. But you would need a primer that will
adhere to the existing paint and also penetrate your new masonry,
(40:01):
which will be a pigmented seiler. And then you could
use paving paint over the top of the and then
I would add some grip to that to make sure
that it doesn't get slippery. But stay tuned for with Bryce,
we'll talk about that as well. We are back with
after the new sport and weather. Remember Painting Expert next.
Speaker 16 (40:19):
Hour, Yvonne wobblock Crown because the charge Jesus cousin lies
(40:51):
the may.
Speaker 4 (40:54):
Then he sends him to the final school and RDIO.
Speaker 8 (41:00):
Welcome back to the show. My name's Pete wolf Camp.
This is the resident builder on Sunday. We are here
to talk about your projects, about your house in the
nicest possible way, of course, I think tasks that you
might want to do, tasks that you might want to
get others to do. So we're talking about, you know,
the sort of the difference between ceiling roof ceiling and
roof painting. Earlier on, just before the break there, Tony
(41:22):
with a set of concrete stairs that have had a
bit of deterioration over time. So again, you know, if
moisture gets into and I'm sure engineers describe it differently,
but the common phrase is what we call concrete cancer,
where moisture has got through the surface of the masonry
because masonry is always typically slightly porous, and it's the
(41:46):
moisture has absorbed far enough into the masonry to then
activate rust in the steel and the steel reinforcing that
then as it starts to starts to expand slightly and
it pushes the masonry surface off, and that typically happens
if the reinforcing is too close to the surface of
(42:06):
the concrete. So if you're doing you know, foundations, for example,
then typically the inspector will check that you're reinforcing's not
sitting on the ground right, especially in foundations for houses
and something you want to have that I think it's
typically seventy five millimeters up. You want to make sure
that you're reinforcing is fifty mili in from the edge
(42:27):
of the concrete, whether that's in the ground or in
a wall, etc. Etc. There are rules around this to
prevent what is exactly has happened at Tony's place, saying
that not a significant issue for Tony. It's relatively minor.
But treat the rust to the patch, apply a new
coat of paint over the top. And the grit that
I'm talking about is I've done it on concrete stairs
(42:50):
leading up to entrance ways and landings. Is if you
just paint concrete, typically it gets quite slippery. So I
do the adhesion primer. I do a first coat, then
I mix up some paint and I make it into
a slurry with some in it, and then I'll paint
the surface of the stair where you're putting your foot
(43:11):
with the paint that's got some grit in it, which
means that it's a little bit more slip resistant, which
is really important. Oh, eight hundred eighty ten eighty is
the number. Call cricky. People aren't liking the music today,
Thank goodness. It's not a music show. Eh, it's a
building show. Oh eight hundred eighty ten eighty is the number?
(43:31):
Call quick couple of texts actually before we go to
the calls, PETE, what house size or what size house
is permitted without a permit? Zero?
Speaker 6 (43:40):
Right?
Speaker 8 (43:40):
You can't build a house without a permit right now.
And it's slightly worrying in the sector that people think
that what is being talked about is actually law at
the moment it is not. You need a building consent
to build a house. End of story. And then another
(44:02):
question with upgrading a bathroom which has a toilet that
is entered from the inside, we are unable to find
a replacement for the same type of system. Any suggestions.
So typically, if you go back to thinking sort of
nineteen seventy ish, often toilets will have a e vent
that comes from the system itself, right, so that the
(44:26):
basically air is allowed to be drawn into the system
via a duct or an opening in the side of
the system that is vented to the outside. Now we
don't do that anymore. We tend to vent the entire
drainage system so that individual toilets don't have their own vents.
So I think the answer to your question there, Dave,
is that when your plumber comes to replace the toilet,
(44:49):
they will need to do some work on the actual
drainage the wastewater system in the house to provide a
terminal vent to the system in order to ensure that
when as water is being sucked out of the traps,
that air is allowed to come in so that the
water doesn't get sucked out completely. That's what the terminal
(45:09):
vent does. Oh, eight hundred and eighty ten eighty is
the number to call. Lou A very good morning to you.
Hang on. The fingers don't work. The mouse works, but
the fingers don't work. Lou Good morning, good morning.
Speaker 7 (45:22):
Good morning, morning preach.
Speaker 15 (45:25):
What can you tell me about bora?
Speaker 11 (45:26):
Mate?
Speaker 8 (45:27):
Bora a small bug typically on the wing about October.
Speaker 13 (45:35):
October.
Speaker 11 (45:36):
Yeah, that's fly spray will kills.
Speaker 8 (45:40):
Oh no, I think I'd go to the hardware store
and go and get products that are specifically for bora.
And I mean back in the day, it used to
be bora bombs that you lit right, Do you remember those?
Speaker 6 (45:53):
Yeah?
Speaker 8 (45:53):
Yeah, alright, they don't exist anymore, thankfully, because they can
be quite explosive. Well, I do have a funny story
to tell about those, but I probably won't tell it
on the radio. So you can buy either injected systems now.
So if you if you're trying to treat individual borer,
let's say in a piece of furniture, you can go
(46:16):
with a nozzle and inject borer killer basically into individual openings,
or you can use a sort of a more extensive treatment,
which is like an aerosol can that you'll put into
an enclosed space and just release that and try and
treat them. But typically listening to RID for all of
these years, borer are on the wing around September October,
(46:39):
so possibly a little.
Speaker 11 (46:40):
Bit late, right now, Alkova, Alko, Yeah, good.
Speaker 8 (46:47):
And look, while like I've seen, I've seen some timber
that has decayed to the point of collapse right from bora,
but it's it is relatively uncommon, and it's it's not
as much of an issue now because obviously in the
last forty odd years we've been using treated timber and
timber treatment that's designed to prevent insects from making a
(47:13):
home in it. So it'll it'll be older timber that's
an issue.
Speaker 6 (47:18):
Okay, Pete, Yeah.
Speaker 8 (47:19):
Okay, all best you lou, thank you you have a
great day. All of best. Oh eight hundred and eighty
ten eighty the number to call. Remember any specific painting
questions send them through text to nine to ninety two
and Bryce, our painting expert, will be with us at
around seven forty five this morning. Cody, you're very good
morning to you.
Speaker 3 (47:38):
Good morning, Peter, good morning. I'll describe the layout of
the house before I ask the question if I made
sure we have a small guarade, the sidewall of which
forms this is attached to the sidewall of the house,
so that the side door of the house as it
comes down makes the roof of the roof of the garage.
(48:05):
The side wall of the house was repaired with weather board,
and I want to law how far away from the
roof of the guarages would be the law border of
the weather boards.
Speaker 8 (48:23):
So the door has been taken out and replaced with.
Speaker 3 (48:26):
Weatherboards the wall that part of the wall was damaged
weather boards. Yes, and as you come down it is
very close to the roof of the small garage which
is attached to.
Speaker 8 (48:45):
The house, right, okay, yes, And then where that junction
is between the roof of the garage and the house,
is there a flashing on top of the roof, and
then the weatherboards come down and stop above that flashing. Correct, Okay,
Typically we'd aim to have a gap there of about well,
(49:06):
it can be as little as twenty to thirty millimeters,
but it should be something like that. It should be
a gap of about at least twenty to thirty milimeters
to allow for airflow, right, because what we don't want
to do is bring our weather boards down hard on
top of the flashing and then it traps water in
there and then it soaks up into the cuttage of
(49:26):
the weather board sometimes and that will accelerate decay.
Speaker 3 (49:30):
Yeah, that's in my concern. I'm not a builder, but
a general common senses that weatherboard is in contact with
this flashing, it will be in contact with water and
the course damage.
Speaker 8 (49:43):
No, it shouldn't be so ideally, you know, twenty to
thirty milimeters will prevent that, but you know even ten
milimeters will, But anything less than that and you're likely
to get water that's trapped there and soaks up into
the timber.
Speaker 3 (50:00):
Yeah. How can I get a building inspector to come
and do you report on this? How do I set
about that?
Speaker 5 (50:09):
So?
Speaker 8 (50:10):
Was this work done? Did you and did someone come
and do the work? And now you've realized that it's
been done like this? Or is this has the is
this existing work?
Speaker 3 (50:22):
No, this was repaired nine months ago, one year ago.
But I couldn't have a crosser look right because of
the risk on the roll.
Speaker 8 (50:31):
Yeah, fair enough too. I would suggest that you go
back to the contractor that did the work and you know,
get them to come back and fix it. And the
simplest thing might be to simply remove that weather well,
try and pop that weather board out and cut it
down then replace it. But that's not always that easy
(50:55):
to do. If it's only three or four weather boards,
then maybe the contractor has to strip all of the
weather boards off and replace them. But certainly having a
gap in there is not suitable. Having no gap it's
not suitable, sorry.
Speaker 3 (51:10):
Because because of the slope of the restrove that the
weatherboard come to rest or stand next to it involt
several pieces of weatherboard because of the stope. So it
did not removing just one weather board. It has to
(51:30):
be a series of weatherboard needs to be removed to
rectify this.
Speaker 8 (51:37):
See again, what I would say is that you know,
given that the work was done. You instructed a carpenter,
a builder to do the work about nine months ago.
Builders should builders should know what the requirements are. Now.
You know, if the builder can come back and prove
to you that it meets the requirements of the building
(51:59):
Code and provide evidence for that, then maybe you need
to accept that. But I suspect that the per will.
I suspect that the builder might find it difficult to
prove that what they've done is compliant. Yeah, I'm just
(52:23):
looking at a couple of the brand's pages at the
moment right, So for example, I'm just looking at some
detail on the brand's website. Now. So Brands is the
Building Research Association of New Zealand. They provide evidence and
research to the government around building durability and product performance,
(52:48):
et cetera, et cetera. So you know, typical detail here
is that you've got roofing coming up to weatherboard cladding,
You've got a flashing and then they are saying you
need a thirty five millimeter gap to the apron flashing.
So and I would agree with that. So that's I've found.
The interesting thing is it took me while we were talking,
(53:09):
took me what fifteen twenty seconds to find that information online.
So if your builders saying no, no, no, there's no
rules around it, or I've done it right, then I
think they're trying to pull the wool over your eyes.
Speaker 3 (53:24):
Yeah, because we had a build a wisiting voice and
a different purpose covered from about a week ago and
he put his arms up in horror and said this
should be thirty five milimeters.
Speaker 8 (53:33):
Well, and that's exactly what I've found on the on
the brand's website, and it's taken me, you know, a
minute to find it. So yeah, yeah, I think go
back to your builder and look if you like, where
did I I've gone to? If you search flashings brands
or brand's website and then search for flashings and weatherboards,
(53:54):
you'll find it print off the pdf. In fact, it's
in build article one six two. There you go, Build
article one six two. That information there, the builder comes back,
you go, here's the documentation. This is what should have
been done. You haven't done it. I want you to
do it, and I'm certainly not paying for it. Is
(54:15):
the way that I would approach it. Cody, thank you
and good luck with that. It's you know, from a
trades point of view. It is always disappointing when you
know we're involved in discussions looking at work that is
relatively straightforward with that's just done poorly or without lack
of understanding, And this to me shows a lack of understanding,
(54:37):
lack of understanding about building science, a lack of understanding
about you know, basic ways that we build in order
to prevent to decay. So if you're going to jam
your weather boards hard down onto your flashing, it's going
to rot over time. That's why we have a thirty
five mire gap. It's as simple as that. Oh eight,
(54:58):
one hundred and eighty ten eighty is the number to
call if you've got building questions, we'll take those. If
you've got any specific painting questions. Bryce McDermott, our painting expert,
will join us at around seven forty five this morning.
So got some good ones already trickier the better to
be fair. I quite like the tricky ones. Text them
through nine to nine two. Back after the break its
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(55:21):
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(55:44):
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(56:07):
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Find it at your favorite hardware store or garden retailer.
B that'd be me. Oh, eight hundred and eighty ten
(56:28):
eighty is the number to call a text message. There's
no excuse for that, whether or detail. This is referring
to Cody's call a moment ago. Everything can be googled
to get the correct information that builders should be on
a blacklist and there needs to be a fine for
work like that. I'm in I'm a lab oh been laborer.
(56:51):
I'm a laborer. I presume been doing this thirty five years.
And if I come across something I don't know, I
simply google it. Well, you're right, I mean, that's the thing.
There is so much good information out there. There's also
some pretty rubbish information out there. But if you go
to a trusted source like, for example, brands, then you'll
find information that's been well researched. And again, what I
(57:12):
do find useful with some of the brand's documents that
are available. And this isn't just available you know, to
me as an LBP or anything like this. I searched
for it online. Found that detail, like I say, within
forty seconds or fifty seconds or something like that to
get the detail is that it's public, it's well researched typically,
(57:32):
and it's available to all of us online. So that
whole issue around what distance should you have between cladding
and flashing? There it is, and also some really good
pictures as well, and it's all available. Oh, eight hundred
and eighty ten eighty is the number to call if
you've got a painting question. We're getting some great questions.
Feel free to text for a couple more. Bryce will
(57:54):
be joining us at around calld to seven This coord
to W eight. This morning, Catherine, A very good morning
to you.
Speaker 5 (58:00):
Oh good morning Page. My toilet is one of the
old score ones with the side vents at the side
of the bowl. And I just got the tail end
of the conversation you had with that people having trouble
trying to find a new toilet to six. Could you
please just run over sation again from they please so
(58:23):
in your situation.
Speaker 8 (58:25):
And I've seen them, you know, basically in most houses
before the nineteen seventies, is my guess. I did a
bathroom in a nineteen sixties bricantile unit a couple of
years ago, and it had exactly that. It had the
old you know, wooden system or wood covered system with
a nice copper insert, and you've got a pipe that
(58:46):
drops down into the back of the pan, and then
out of the side of the pan was another vent
that went into the wall and then outside up the
wall and out through the roof. I think it was
so typically today, when we're doing wastewater systems inside a house,
let's say, you know, we typically we know where the
(59:07):
connection is to outside, right, so we've got one hundred
mil wastewater pipe in the ground, might have a gully dish,
and then you'll have a connections that run through the house.
One hundred milli line running to a toilet, then a
maybe a sixty milli line running to a shower. And
it's like a imagine the roots of a tree. Right,
you got the tree trunk, and you got all the
(59:28):
branches that go to the different fittings around the house.
And typically one of those lines will extend past and
go up and that one is just open to the air,
so that when you use the toilet use a hand
basin that's got a p trap on it, air is
(59:48):
allowed into the system, which means that the water as
it's rushing out doesn't suck all of the water out
of the traps. Right, So every basin that we have
has a trap below it and that holds water in
the base of the trap, and that stops the foul
air that's in the wastewater line from coming out in
(01:00:09):
the bathroom. Right, it's the water in the trap that
stops the foul vapors from coming into the house. So
without a vent, that water will get sucked out. Now
that's how we do it today. That's sort of modern plumbing,
I guess back then with toilets, and that they vented
them individually. You can't buy, to the best of my knowledge,
(01:00:31):
you can't buy toilets anymore that vent individually. So you
need to make sure that your your wastewater pipework inside
the house has a terminal vent on it. And that's
what you've got to talk to your plumber about. And
that might just mean that where the connection, for example,
to the toilet is is in your instance, is the
(01:00:54):
toilet on a timber floor, a suspended floor, so the
drainage connection is accessible and it's below there. Yeah, okay,
So it might be that a junction is added underneath
the floor penetrate out through the wall and up the
outside of the house and that becomes your terminal vent.
Great something like that. But you know, this is work
(01:01:14):
that should be done to ensure that the system works properly.
And of course this is work that should only be
done by a registered plumber.
Speaker 5 (01:01:24):
Oh yes, oh yes, oh yes, there's a lot of
people out there masquerading as plumbers.
Speaker 8 (01:01:31):
Yeah. Well again, the great thing with you know, plumbers
and electricians and gas fitters and drain layers. Is that
they are all registered trades, right, so anyone who is
qualified should be able to provide you with their license,
and all of their information is provided on a database
which you could search. So again, you know, never allow
(01:01:52):
someone who is seemingly masquerading as a plumber or an
electrician to come and do what is restricted work without
proving their identity. If you don't know them, well that's it.
Speaker 5 (01:02:04):
And sometimes even recommend for friends of friends can prove
fatal as well.
Speaker 8 (01:02:10):
So it's always a tricky thing recommending people. And you know,
I obviously I get asked every now and then, you know,
and most of the time the people that I recommend
do a great job, but every now and then we
all make mistakes, right, So it's a bit anyway, that's
another matter, but that basically is the system. So if
(01:02:30):
your older plumbing system has event on on an individual toilet,
you just need to adjust the way that the plumbing
has worked out in the house.
Speaker 5 (01:02:39):
Great, I kind of thought that, but these days I
like to triple check everything.
Speaker 8 (01:02:45):
Put on you too, good on you?
Speaker 5 (01:02:48):
Oh well, look you have a nice Christmas?
Speaker 11 (01:02:50):
Thank you? Okay, and thank you?
Speaker 8 (01:02:53):
And is it too early to say yeah, I think
it has feel. I know it's the first of December,
which is scary in its own way. Yeah, it is scary,
isn't it first to December already? I just thinking about
all those jobs that I wrote down on a piece
of paper that I would get done this year. To
(01:03:14):
be fair, I haven't got a lot of them done.
Other things have gotten away, including making giant hats for plays,
which worked out quite well. It was quite nice to
see that, just in a quiet moment, roll out onto
the stage at the Artea Center. I mentioned last week
that I had spent quite a happy sort of day
in a bit making a giant top hat as a
(01:03:36):
mad Hatter as in Alice in Wonderland in my workshop
last week, and then I had to make a few adjustments.
To be fair, there was some creative differences, so I
went back on the Monday, made some adjustments to the hat,
and then yesterday at the Artea Center during National Youth
Theater's performance of Alice a Wonderland Music Hall, out rolled
(01:03:58):
the hat. I'm not giving anything away. I'm just saying
that if you want to go, there are still tickets
available today. Two shows today and then that's it for
the kids, all two hundred and something of them who
are proud of this musical theater. It was great, actually,
it was wonderful last night. Oh, eight hundred eighty ten
eighty is the number to call. We'll take a break,
then we'll talk to Neville. If you are at all
(01:04:19):
idly curious about the hat that I made, I did
put some post pictures up on Instagram. Actually, so if
you just search resident builder on Instagram you'll find them
there me working away on the giant hat. It's a
lot of fun. Actually, eight hundred eighty ten eighty is
the number to call. Neville. Greetings, Hi, Peter, how Neville? Good,
(01:04:40):
thank you.
Speaker 17 (01:04:42):
I've got a house with a two story house scott
block basement, and then it's got a large window that
goes right up to the apex, and the window is
writting out down the bottom right. It's also cancidly that
(01:05:04):
over the block work.
Speaker 8 (01:05:06):
Yes a foot and then you've.
Speaker 17 (01:05:09):
Got a deck which is coming through the bottom. The
bearers are coming through and meeting the bearers of the house,
which has caused all the rotting. Right yep, there's two
beams going through the roof that is parallel with the ridge.
(01:05:35):
Ridge line and they're held up in the middle of
the living room with two posts and then it goes
to the other side above the window. So I've had
Address to a look at about a year ago, and
he took too long to do anything about your record.
(01:05:57):
He couldn't get the engineer to sort of want to
look at it, so it sort of.
Speaker 8 (01:06:05):
Sat here and yeah, that's all right. I mean, I'm
pleased that you've engaged a professional, so to speak, because
you know, it sounds like the scope of the repair
is slightly beyond just a repair in terms of you've
now got to move into that remediation phase. And you know,
(01:06:29):
one of the things that I guess in modern building
methodology we spend a lot of time focused on is
moisture ingress for obvious reasons, but also flashing details. And
we were talking about that earlier with Cody. So you know,
in I'm assuming from what you're saying that the way
in which it was constructed in the past, where you've
got beams that run from inside the building to outside
(01:06:53):
of the building, that flashing that detail is really critical.
Now today you can buy you can either have made
custom made flashings or you can buy proprietary ones that
allow you to seal that penetration really well. That stops
water effectively sitting on top of the beam that can't
leavers tracking along the top and going straight inside the building,
(01:07:14):
which is probably what's happened.
Speaker 17 (01:07:17):
The thing is that I want to swap out that window.
Speaker 8 (01:07:21):
Yeah, okay, bind snyder in.
Speaker 17 (01:07:24):
Then whether the existing blocks will take that weight, what
has to be done around supporting a larger sort of
you know, a full length it's probably about six meters,
right window.
Speaker 8 (01:07:47):
Okay, that's that's fairly significant. I think, you know, if
you've got I'm just thinking about work that you can
do without necessarily requiring a consent, versus work that does
require a consent. So, for example, if you've got an
existing window and you want to change that to a door,
typically you can do that without necessarily requiring a consent
(01:08:08):
as long as you don't extend the width of the opening, right,
So you can take out the framing below, but you
can't extend the width. As soon as you extend the
width triggers requirement for building consent. So if that's what
you're thinking about doing, you'll need to get a consent.
If you're just taking out a window and putting in
a set of a sliding door into the existing opening.
(01:08:30):
I guess doing that amount of work will also allow
you to expose those cant leave a jost and assess
their condition. It sounds like if there is significant decay
in there, you're probably going to have to replace those,
which means replacing timber well back inside the building. That's
then a structural issue, So I think I would get
(01:08:50):
specific engineering advice on that. Have it drafted up.
Speaker 17 (01:08:53):
I think the actual house barers are okay.
Speaker 8 (01:08:56):
Yeah, in terms of bearing on top of the concrete wall,
I think the concrete wall would probably be okay. Again,
worth getting specific advice, but typically they're okay. If you
needed to, you could solid fill some of it, but
typically they're okay.
Speaker 17 (01:09:14):
So a slide away then, because you've got high windows
as well above right the actual you know you've got
like a V yes of windows.
Speaker 8 (01:09:27):
Surely if you were looking at replacing it, you would
replace the entire joinery section. So you take out everything
that's there, including the V shape or that runs to
an apex, and replace it all with a new set
of joinery rather than just trying to keep the original
windows upstairs more in the upper part and replace the
slider downstairs, right, I would have thought, because then you know,
(01:09:52):
if you're trying to put new joinery into existing joinery effectively,
then you've also got you know, flashing details that you
have to address there, because what you don't want is
that a leak occurs at that junction between you new
joinery and your older existing joinery above it, and if
you haven't flashed it properly, that's what will happen over time.
Speaker 17 (01:10:12):
So this window, like these two beams that are on
the outside the roof, they go straight up from this
window and they're sitting on the window sill.
Speaker 8 (01:10:25):
Right, Okay, look, I think definitely you're going to need
to get specific design on this because you know, and
I've seen this before sometimes with older construction, where you know,
the window itself is offering up support to the structure
above it, so you'll you'll have a wall that's literally
(01:10:46):
resting on you know, the mullions of the existing joinery,
and when you take that out, you find that actually
the lintel is insufficient and it's loading up or it
won't take the load of the roof above it. I
very much am getting the impression that you're going to
need to get specific design and and do that. It's
(01:11:07):
going to end up being I think a fairly significant
job by the sound of it. I wish you well
with all of that, Neville, good luck, but do get
specific design. Thanks for you call. Radio. We're going to
take very short break. Do we need to take a
break now?
Speaker 2 (01:11:23):
Ah?
Speaker 8 (01:11:23):
Yeah we can. Okay, let's do that. Then we've got
Bryce who is going to answer your painting question straight
after the break, Radio, Bryce McDermott, Welcome to the show.
As always, lovely to have you with us on a
Sunday morning. How are you, Bryce?
Speaker 14 (01:11:36):
Not too bad mate?
Speaker 10 (01:11:37):
Yourself good?
Speaker 8 (01:11:38):
Yeah, not too shabby at all. Actually, thank you very much.
Speaker 14 (01:11:40):
That's good.
Speaker 8 (01:11:41):
Now we talk about painting, but we should actually take
a step back and just go let's do the safety
stuff and take a break and just take a moment
to think about doing the job safely. Give us some tips.
Speaker 14 (01:11:56):
Yeah, yeah, Well, you know, if you're thinking about painting
a certain section of your house, you know, you think,
how am I going to do this? It's going to
get in the way. What could happen to me if
I fall all off and all that sort of stuff.
You know, don't work at home on your own. Make
sure there's somebody homekeeping an eye on you. Especially if
you're going to work around where the power into the building,
(01:12:17):
you'll have to have that isolated, yes, or even disconnected.
You can contact your power company and they can do
that for you. So you don't want to go up
and smoke on your holidays, So it's important that you
consider that, you know, it's quite dangerous. You've also got
to check out your access equipment, you know, and make
sure that you've got a reasonable equipment to get you
(01:12:40):
to what you want to do, you know, not Granddad's
old ladder that's been sitting in the shed for one
hundred years or whatever. Ye you know, you've got to
have good safe equipment, you know, good aluminium ladders, scaffolds
or what have you, just to get you up there.
And it's a lot more fun rather than having your
knees tremble while you're up a rickety ladder or something
like that.
Speaker 8 (01:12:59):
Absolutely. Look, I'll tell a story after the news about,
you know, watching a guy tumble from a roof and
it's still in my mind. I can still hear the thud.
Right to be a graphic and no one wants to
be in that situation, So you're absolutely right. You know,
check your leads, make sure that that's safe. If you're
using power tools outside and they're corded, make sure they're
(01:13:23):
running through a proper RCD to ensure that if you
cut the cord or something like that, then you're going
to be protected. And you write old ladders, go treat
yourself to a new one this Christmas. Because I stood
on one the other day whether the aluminium had decayed
to the point or deterior to the point where the
tread gave way under my foot right, and I was
(01:13:48):
in the end. I just cut it in half and
I took it and recycled it. That's the best thing
for old ladders. Go and get yourself a ladder.
Speaker 14 (01:13:54):
A lot of people don't realize you can just whip
the old ladder down to the and they'll give you
some money for it.
Speaker 8 (01:14:00):
That's right. In the old days, it was beer money.
Now it's money for a chai late. Right, let's get
into a couple of tigs. Fence painting. Hey, I want
to paint a fence black stain or acrylic paint an
opinion on it about maybe warping or cost from Stephen
So beatimber, let's say, and you want to make it black.
Speaker 14 (01:14:23):
Well, in terms of maintenance, paintings that probably the better option.
You know, with stains, they do to tear right after
a couple of years, especially if they're in full sun. Right,
So you've got to consider whether you want to spend
you know, every couple of years out there repainting your fence.
Speaker 11 (01:14:37):
Yep.
Speaker 14 (01:14:40):
Cost wise, there's probably not much in it. But in
the long term, paintings probably the better option because you're
not out there redoing it every couple of years. So
if you're looking at labor, maybe in terms of redoing it,
painting is probably the more cost effective option. And there's
a multitude of colors that you can use, but you
(01:15:01):
know black, you know, you can buy a ten lead
bucket of lumbersider and black and put it on the
way you go perfect.
Speaker 8 (01:15:08):
So over being timber. Primer first, then top coat.
Speaker 14 (01:15:12):
Yeah, I don't know if it's if it's super important,
but if it's freshly canalized and stuff like that, yes
I would. I would prime it just to keep the
cannalizing sort of blocked out from the top coats. If
it's painted already then, and you know, in sound condition.
You know, you could just go over the top of it.
(01:15:32):
A fence after all. I mean, it's you know, you
do have to do certain sensibilities and things, but it
is a fence at the end of the day.
Speaker 8 (01:15:40):
Ye perfect right. Someone would like to stain a front
door slightly darker without having to stand it back completely.
It has a varnish on top, it's weathered, hoping for
a special prime. I think they're hoping for a shortcut,
but I'm not sure that there is one.
Speaker 14 (01:15:58):
There probably isn't.
Speaker 9 (01:15:59):
Really.
Speaker 14 (01:16:01):
We can tint up our water borne polyurethane and with
a slight amount of tin by the little bottles tint
that you can pour into it, but it's not really
meant for an exterior situation. If you wanted to change
the color, it's I don't think there's much option but
to strip it back and start again, especially if it's
(01:16:22):
deteriorated a bit. You know, you've got staining on the
probably on the door, you've got opaque polyurethane, you've got cracks,
you've got things, all sorts of things. I don't know
without looking at the person's door, but you know, it
may be more sensible to strip it off, stand it up,
stain it to the color you want, and re polyurythane,
maybe with a marine vanish.
Speaker 8 (01:16:43):
Right over the top. Brilliant. Now this is an interesting
one morning. We've had a rat infestation in our ceiling
last year, which we've now dealt with. We have had
rat urine stains on some of the ceilings. How can
we treat those areas in order to repaint successfully?
Speaker 14 (01:17:01):
From Marie hmm, Well, we do have a product of
now is called stain lock that you can you can
put on stains on ceilings or stain on paint in
general to can't block it out you know, felt pen
marks and stuff like that. It will absorb the stain,
but it won't go any further. And then you know
you could quick try over the top of that and
(01:17:22):
proceed with repainting, or you could you know, if it's
dry and not too bad and things like that, you
put the good old solvable and sure seal on it
block it out. But yes, I think sure seel or
stain lock would be the option.
Speaker 8 (01:17:38):
Okay. Now, in terms of quela, for example, like if
you've got a new piece of quila, they're asking how
long do you leave it before putting a coat on it?
M And I guess dress as general for all hardwoods.
Speaker 14 (01:17:55):
Yeah, because you've got the little the tenons and everything
running out of it as soon as it gets wet,
and people like to stop that because it can driple
over the place. And you know, especially if you've got
a deck above a patio below, you up all these
brown stains and nice neat lines everywhere.
Speaker 5 (01:18:12):
M hm.
Speaker 14 (01:18:13):
Not a great deal you can do about it. Generally,
you've got to leave timber or timber decks the weather
for about three months before you can put a stain
on them, just to let them settle, you know, allow
the timber to expand and do its business and just
generally settle in and then you can put the We
(01:18:33):
do have a cooiler decking stain that you can put
on that you know, sort of retains the color of
the coiler, you know, sort of an orange sort of
red color. But yeah, I would, you know, there's not
a great deal you can do about it. I would
just leave it to weather, and leave it.
Speaker 8 (01:18:48):
To weather first and then apply it's.
Speaker 14 (01:18:51):
An issue of it dripping on areas below. Then you know,
just the if it's just going straight onto the ground.
It shouldn't be a problem. But then just after three months,
just you know, give it a code of coiler decking stain.
It's put the instructions and.
Speaker 17 (01:19:05):
Away you go.
Speaker 8 (01:19:06):
Now here's a classic. Recently, been painting skirting boards with
an acrylic the painter has touched up the lino as well.
Is there an easy way to get in this case
acrylic off the lino floor.
Speaker 14 (01:19:21):
Me misilated spirits will will will soften, and acrylics and
things like that. Failing that, we do have a proprietary
paint remover latex paint remover as the Americans call it,
that will remove acrylic paint off surfaces. So if you
(01:19:43):
nip into one of our shops and you can. It
comes in a spray bottle, and you know that should
do the trick. You know, you just spread it on,
leave it for a bit and then wipe it off.
Speaker 8 (01:19:54):
I'm writing that down because the number of times I've
had calls from people going, you know, the paint has
been or I've been painting and I've got, you know,
splashes of acrylic paint on aluminium jewelery, for example, how
do I get it off? So this latex paint. It
might be the solution there.
Speaker 14 (01:20:08):
Yeah, but you know, if something's been sitting on the
aluminum joinal for quite some time, you know it's probably
not going to do the trick, right might you might
have to look at some form of solvent like go
our number twelve center or something which is a good
general cleaner.
Speaker 8 (01:20:24):
Sounds good, Bryce, We're right on top of the news. Fantastic,
Thank you you're a News Talks there'd be welcome back
to the show. Bryce mcdommott, our painting expert just before
the news and really appreciate his insights as always. I'm
just trying to think whether that might be the last
show with Bryce this year, because suddenly all of those
deadlines are looming, aren't they. You know, December the first today?
(01:20:49):
How many couple more shows? As it happens, I'll carry
on doing Sundays through the Christmas and New Year break.
Looking forward to that. Actually, I'll be working here on
Christmas Day. I'm going to be doing i think eleven
to one on Christmas Day, so looking forward to that
as well a couple of other quick painting ones. Just
before we move back into the building, Can I paint
(01:21:11):
the inside of a color steel fence straight away. Yep,
pretty much wash it down, apply an adhesion primer. So
there's a very specific razine primer for that that you
need to use.
Speaker 10 (01:21:21):
Um.
Speaker 8 (01:21:23):
And what's the other one that came Ah, remove roof
paint spray that has drifted onto plastic outdoor chairs. I'm
wondering whether that latex paint remover which comes in a
little spray bottle might be the go there. It'll soften
it up and then allow you to scrape it off,
depending on how much there is. I have to say
(01:21:46):
spray drift from roof painting is a little bit uncommon. Yeah,
that would have been annoying. I would have imagined eight
hundred and eighty eighty is that number to call?
Speaker 5 (01:21:59):
Oh?
Speaker 8 (01:21:59):
Another quick couple of texts that came through. I live
in christ Church. Can I replace my toilet with a
composting toilet? I wonder whether the local council might have
some issues around that in terms of if you were
in an urban area, I think you would have to
prove compliance. You'd have to prove that it's not going
(01:22:21):
to inadvertently become a nuisance to your neighbors. In the
same way that something that's sort of come up. I
know Auckland Council, but probably other councils as well have
started to introduce sort of a maintenance schedule for septic
tanks as well within the Auckland city boundaries, which is
(01:22:45):
reasonably large. So people are having to get an independent
assessment and maintenance done of their septic systems. And I
would imagine the same thing would would apply here if
you were doing a composting toilet. Great idea, but it's
going to be a christ Church City Council question. Another
(01:23:07):
quick text that came through love the show Thank You
very Much. I want to repair my old letterbox. The
wood is old and cracked. Would putty be enough to
make small repairs to the cracks? The issue sometimes with
putty is if you use too much of it'll just
fall out. So for larger cracks, I tend to use
specific products like repair Care, which is a two part
(01:23:28):
adhesive and filler so it'll stick to the area, but
also you can use it to build up areas. There's
a couple of similar products out there. The one that
I happen to use is repair Care. In fact, I've
got a job for that shortly where power has been undergrounded,
and so I've got you know, where the large screw
goes into the facier board of an older house, the
(01:23:49):
big hook that they hang the power on, and then
the junction box with the terminal box that hangs next
to it, and then of course there's the chorus connection
that used to go under overhead has now come an underground.
So I've got to get up there safely. As per
the discussion with Bryce just for the news around working
at heights at home. So I've actually got a small
(01:24:10):
mobile scaffold. I'll take that to the job. Get up there,
unscrew these fittings now that they've been deleted, they're no
longer live. And then you know, I've got like a
ten twelve millimeter hole where the screw fitting when in
for the overhead power line. I'll back that out. Hopefully
i can get that out in one piece, and then
I'll use something like repair Care there to fill that hole.
(01:24:33):
You can also fetch in a new piece of timber,
but the repair Care should do that job all in
One oh eight one hundred and eighty ten eighty is
the number to call, and Dave a very good morning
to you. How are you this morning, Dave. Hello, Dave,
why is that not happening for me? There we go, Dave, greetings, greeting. Sorry,
(01:24:56):
technical issues on my side.
Speaker 10 (01:24:58):
That's all right. I'll just tear a hole of the
windows replaced with double glazing. Yes, and now that's where
they come and then cut them on the inside and
pushed them out and slide.
Speaker 8 (01:25:08):
The new ones and into timber joinery.
Speaker 10 (01:25:12):
Well, on my brick tile aluminium house, it's between the brickworks.
Speaker 8 (01:25:18):
Yes, but there must be a frame that the double glazing.
Speaker 10 (01:25:23):
Yeah, the frame was built into the window, and I
think they just slide the new one into place.
Speaker 8 (01:25:30):
And the frame is timber or aluminium.
Speaker 10 (01:25:34):
Timber?
Speaker 8 (01:25:35):
Okay, like it was.
Speaker 10 (01:25:38):
I guess. My question is on the outside they put
a ceiling along the top, but between the brick and
aluminium down the sides there is a like a little
gap where you can see the cavity behind it. Should
there be ceiling? The old ones didn't look like they
had it. I don't know.
Speaker 5 (01:26:01):
No.
Speaker 8 (01:26:02):
Typically, because the way that you know brick cavities work
or brickwork is typically done is you've got your timber framing,
then you have building wrap. Then you'll have a cavity
forty millimeters, and then you'll have your brickwork, and you
tend to put the windows in first. This is from
new right. You put the windows in first, you flash
(01:26:23):
behind the windows onto the timber framing, and then you
bring your bricks up to it. And typically we don't
seal a vertical seal a bead of sealant between the
aluminium joinery or the joinery and the brickwork, because the
small amount of moisture that might get through there enters
the cavity and drains out through there. So no, there's
(01:26:46):
no requirement there to fill that.
Speaker 10 (01:26:48):
Gap up helpsolute of breathe. I guess two.
Speaker 8 (01:26:51):
The wall inside, Yeah, that's certainly part of it. In
the same way that you know, at the bottom of
the brickwork, you'll find that there is some joints raked
out that allows air to enter. And then typically at
the top the brickwork stops either a little bit shy
of the feet lining or the whatever cladding there is
above to allow air to enter at the bottom and
(01:27:11):
vent at the top. That's really important.
Speaker 11 (01:27:14):
Yeah.
Speaker 10 (01:27:14):
Okay, so because my neighbor, I followed my neighbor, she
had it done as well, right, now she said, some
other work just recently done, and they've talked to her
into ceiling the whole window, and they've gone around ceiling
all the windows, all full sides.
Speaker 8 (01:27:30):
So again depending on you know, like if, for example,
if it was double brick without a cavity, or if
it was solid masonry you know that it and the
window was inserted into the solid masonry, then I'd probably
apply a seilant. But if it's conventional timber framing, building
wrap cavity and then brickwork, I wouldn't be too concerned
as long as Now this is where it gets tricky
(01:27:53):
because if you're retrofitting right, so you're you're not taking
the brickwork away, but you're changing the joinery. Basically, once
you put the joinery in place, you can't flash behind it, right,
So if you can't flash behind it, then you try
and stop water entering the cavity by sealing the front.
(01:28:16):
But if in your instance, they haven't changed the frame,
They've just taken the glazing out, deepened the rebates and
inserted the double glazing.
Speaker 5 (01:28:25):
Then.
Speaker 10 (01:28:27):
The tumbeln cut cut round the window.
Speaker 8 (01:28:31):
But have they actually taken the window frame that the
double glaze that sits out.
Speaker 10 (01:28:37):
Yes, and then pushed the new one which has already
bumped into the aluminium winder.
Speaker 8 (01:28:45):
Think, yeah, see in that instance there, because you know,
practically speaking, you can't once it goes in, you can't
deal with the flashings behind it. And you know, in
some situations when the joinery goes in, the flashing behind
it is just some DPC right, some dampproof course that
(01:29:06):
is stapled in and tucked in behind there, and that's
enough to prevent water getting into the gap between your
timber framing and your jowinery. You can do that from
you but you can't do that as retrofit. So maybe
if it is a retrofit in this instance, ceiling around
the outside would be required. Look, simple thing is to
go back to the contractor and go is there you know,
(01:29:27):
what's your methodology? Have you followed the process that you've
established that you know is going to work, And if
that requires selent, then they need to come back and
do selant. All right, I hope that helps enjoy the
double glazing. It'll make a big difference. Really, Okay, that's good,
(01:29:49):
all right, all the rest if you take care, I mean,
that's one of the benefits of double glazing, isn't it?
You know you had some single glazing, then you've got
double glazing. You know the benefit the day after because
it's going to be warmer. Oh, weight one hundred and
eighty ten eighty is the number two. All pete spelt
(01:30:13):
the old way like my dad's name. My daughter has
inherited a nineteen sixties house with asbestos in some of
the ceilings. Are there other options than removing it? The
kitchen one is badly stained from cooking, and the lounge
is looking very sooty from Connie encapsulating. It is okay
(01:30:34):
in the sense that with some decent advice. In fact,
I think Asbestos Awareness Week was last week and there's
a whole lot of new guidance. It's quite digestible, it's
quite readable. You'll find it on the work Safe website.
So there's new guidance for homeowners around sort of dealing
with asbestos in your house. So in this instance here,
(01:30:56):
I mean, you know, option one would be pull the
ceilings down, remove the material and replace the ceilings. If
the other option is to encapture, so essentially to put
a new layer of plasterboard underneath the existing ceilings, you
got to be a little bit careful about that and
then stop and paint that. So those, broadly speaking, are
(01:31:19):
your options, but neither of them is a cheap option.
Your new stalk CEP. We will take your texts for
ROOT as well, but of course we'll take your calls
for RUT from eight thirty. Still got time for a
couple more building questions if you'd like to call us now.
The number is eight hundred eighty ten eighty Right now.
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and c's apply used dog ZB your new STALKSB. We've
(01:32:45):
got rid on standby if you've got some gardening questions.
But right now we're still talking building. Oh eight hundred
and eighty ten eighty is the number to call for
your building questions, Peter, A very good morning to you.
Speaker 11 (01:32:57):
Good morning, Peter Lock. I'm looking to project manage my
house and it comes back to the LPP. Now, the
individual trades, they will sign off their own work, is
that correct? Yes?
Speaker 8 (01:33:14):
Right?
Speaker 11 (01:33:15):
And the bill and the builder hey will go.
Speaker 17 (01:33:19):
His part.
Speaker 11 (01:33:20):
But when do I need an lp B to oversee
all of the work.
Speaker 8 (01:33:28):
It's a very good question. No don't, No, you don't
so in terms of so restricting building work in most
cases needs to be done or supervised by a licensed
building practitioner. So what's the scale of your projects? Peter?
Speaker 11 (01:33:50):
So, we too be droom greennie flattyp.
Speaker 8 (01:33:53):
With building consent. Yes, okay, all right, So the restricted
trades that will be involved will be foundations, framing, cladding, roofing, waterproofing,
those sorts of things. Right, So each of those contractors
you could manage them, and each of them will provide
(01:34:15):
you with either a producer statement or a record of
works or a memorandum of work that you can then
provide to counsel when you apply for your Code Compliance Certificate.
You'r CCC at the end of the job. Yes, right,
you go ahead.
Speaker 11 (01:34:35):
What I was saying is that, yeah, I thought that
would be the case, but when it comes to the
final the builder, hey, will give me his certificate and
then all I have to do is take them all
to the council to correct. Yeah.
Speaker 8 (01:34:56):
So what the builder should do, your licensed building practitioner
is they will issue you with a record of works
for all of the restricted building work that they do.
So their record of works will if they've done the foundations,
they'll include the foundations, they'll include the framing. So you know,
I've done the framing in accordance with the building Code.
(01:35:18):
I've done the cavity system if required, I've done the cladding,
I've installed the joinery, I've done you know the roof framing.
I've done the internal bracing. So you know, if you've
got a jib bracing system and it's a b LH
one to one point two meters, they'll say, yep, I've
installed that correctly. That's the restricted building work and all
(01:35:40):
of that should be covered off on their record of works.
Speaker 6 (01:35:43):
Thank you very much.
Speaker 8 (01:35:45):
All right, good luck with the project. Thank you all
the very best to you. Bother then, and a quick
one from you, Bruce, how are you?
Speaker 6 (01:35:52):
Yeah? Yeah, good good Figus. Hey, my questions this. I've
got three houses of just relocated a new site and
Evian's going well. That's the power which was put down
the driveway, all went well, and then the electrical inspector
came out through that last week and said, no, there's
moisture in the power cable. What the remedy for that?
Speaker 8 (01:36:16):
Look to be fair, you know, you need to get
specific advice on that. When they say moisture, is there
moisture in the cable or in the deducting for the
cable in the contract?
Speaker 6 (01:36:29):
He just indicated that that the power's coming from the streets.
But then there's no power at the top of the
driveway and there's no power at the bottom of the
driveway to get this sixty meter driveway, and he said
that the cable's broken or there's moisture that's stopping the
movement of power. Okay, but I've got I've got to
(01:36:49):
meet I've got my ectrician coming to myrow morning.
Speaker 8 (01:36:52):
I was going to say, ultimately, it's going to be
a discussion with the contractor who installed it, you know,
and if they've done it in such a way that
you know, I know, it seems really scary, and I
still get scared about this, but apparently it's completely legitimate.
Is you know, certain types of power cable for Maine
supply are just laid in the trench, right, They're not
(01:37:13):
protected by condurit And I always kind of look at
that and go, jeepers. I think I'd prefer to have
mine in the conduit. And then, you know, if contractors
have not paid attention while they're backfilling and they've used
the wrong material, then yeah, inadvertently they may well have
damaged that MAINZ cable, which would be a real big issue,
(01:37:34):
especially in terms of identifying where the damage might be,
you know what I mean, and digging up and redoing
sixty meters of cable, because sixty meters of cable, you'll
know that's not cheap.
Speaker 6 (01:37:47):
No, it's right, it's three house.
Speaker 8 (01:37:49):
It become I wateringly expensive, isn't it? That cable? Yeah? Look,
I think it's all going to come back on your contractor,
because it's simple. You've asked them to do a job,
run power from the road to the house, and then
they've done it and it's been backfilled. Now they might say, look,
I didn't do the back it's not my problem. But
(01:38:09):
you can argue that later on. Did you do the
trenching yourself or did the contractors do the trenching?
Speaker 6 (01:38:15):
Another contract? Yeah?
Speaker 8 (01:38:17):
Okay, okay, let us know how you get on. I'd
be fascinated to know what the discussion tomorrow, how that
got resolved.
Speaker 6 (01:38:26):
Yeah, I will all right, Okay, Pete appreciate that.
Speaker 8 (01:38:28):
Bruce, good luck with it. Take care Criche To be fair,
it's not one that I'm particularly familiar with, righty. Oh,
If you would like to talk to rut and I'm
sure you would because some of you have already started
to call, the lines are open. The number to call
is eight hundred and eighty ten eighty back in a moment.
Speaker 1 (01:38:48):
For more from the Resident Builder with Peter Wolfcamp, Listen
live to News Talk sai'd be on Sunday mornings from six,
or follow the podcast on iHeartRadio
You're listening to the Resident build Up podcast with Peter
wolf Camp from News Talks at Bay.
Speaker 2 (00:19):
The house is a hole, even when it's darks, even
when the grass is overgrown.
Speaker 3 (00:26):
In the yard, even when.
Speaker 2 (00:29):
A dog is too old to borrow, And when you're
sitting at the table trying not to stop in the
house scissor home, even when we are band gone, even when.
Speaker 4 (00:45):
You're there alone, you know.
Speaker 2 (00:57):
A house sizzle hole, even when those goes, even when.
Speaker 5 (01:03):
You got around from the world, you love your move.
Speaker 4 (01:07):
Screamed bling pains being.
Speaker 6 (01:10):
In fund the world.
Speaker 2 (01:12):
Locals lisball when they're going.
Speaker 7 (01:14):
Leaving the.
Speaker 2 (01:17):
House, even when web Ben love even when you're there.
Speaker 4 (01:25):
Lone alrighty, oh, good morning.
Speaker 8 (01:50):
Welcome, Welcome, Welcome. I hope that you've had a good week.
My name is pepe off Camp, the Resident Builder, and
this is the Resident Builder on Sunday. So we are
here to talk about your place, to talk about all
things building and construction. So as I say, I trust
that you've had a good week. For those of you, well,
I think South Island had a fair amount of rain.
We've certainly had well steady rain, which came as a
(02:12):
bit of a surprise after what was a tremendous day
on Friday. It was hot, it was still, it was light,
and then Saturday has been a bit sort of but
ho hum, hasn't it And it's still raining this morning,
which is probably what do there we say anytime rain
comes and it's not too bad, Oh, it's good for
the garden. Well it probably has been, so yeah, it
(02:34):
was raining last night, which meant that no one could drive,
which means in the motorways were all blocked up and
trying it. I was just ready to start a couple
of jobs around the house, and maybe I'm taking the
weather as an excuse not to crack into a few things.
So if you're thinking, gosh, my excuse for not getting
started is I'm not quite sure what to do, then
the show is for you. I'm not offering up other excuses,
(02:56):
the other ways of getting out of doing jobs. I'm
offering to you the opportunity to talk about a project
that you might have or a dilemma that you might
be facing around the house, and we can look for
some suggestions and some solutions to those challenges that we have.
So the lines are open. The number to call, oh
eight hundred eighty ten, eighty. You can text, of course,
(03:17):
because it is you can text through that's nine two
nine two or ZEDBZB from your mobile phone. And if
you'd like to send me an email, you're more than welcome.
Speaker 2 (03:25):
To do that.
Speaker 8 (03:26):
It's Pete at NEWSTALKSEDB dot co dot Nz. So Pete
at NEWSTALKSEDB dot co dot Nz. Righty, oh, well, construction
has been so much in the news recently, lots of
stuff around social housing networks, community housing providers, which is well,
(03:46):
it's an important issue. I'm more than happy to talk
about it on the show this morning. And also, well,
I guess the most significant thing is today is the
first of December. So if you start to think about
getting the house ready for Christmas, if you're starting to
think about perhaps getting some trade, e's in to get
some jobs. This is the classic Christmas rush sort of
(04:07):
hasn't felt like it's really kicked off this year. It's
been a quiet year, right for most tradespeople. So typically
that Christmas rush, which might start sort of late October,
sometimes early October if it's been a good year, doesn't
really feel that it's there right now. But if you
do have a project that you'd like to get started
(04:28):
and get finished more importantly before Christmas. Well, today's the
first of December. You need to get underway with it.
So if you'd like to call, oh, eight hundred eighty
ten eighty is that number to call. We are back
to sort of normal scheduling today on the program No
Rugby Commentary. The All Blacks obviously have finished their Northern tour,
so Rid will join us at as regular time at
(04:49):
around eight point thirty this morning through till nine o'clock.
We have Bryce McDermott from Razine Paints. He will be
available to answer any of your specific painting questions. Let's
do that at around seven forty five this morning, So
Bryce at seven forty five this morning. If you've got
any specific painting questions that you would like to ask
(05:11):
of Bryce, he will be available, as I say, from
seven forty five this morning, Oh eight hundred eighty ten addy. Though,
Now if I'm getting some texts already, that's great. If
you've got any building questions or want to make some
comments around building and construction, oh, eight hundred eighty ten
eighty is the number to call. First text was all
(05:31):
about the song I'm not even going to go there right, yeah,
good morning, regular caller. However, throat isn't suitable for radio
this morning. Any ideas on this. I have a unit
with jib painted unit with a jib painted wall that
meets a plywood roof and need to sort out a
flashing to finish it off. At a loss what to
know what might look good or work well? Kind regards
(05:54):
from Paul what jumps to mind. So if you've got
plywood ceiling or a plywood roof and then you've got
plasterboard running up to it is if it's already done,
it's a little bit too late. But if I was
building it from scratch, I would probably look at like
(06:15):
a little negative detail, a little flashing. There's various different
jib flashings. They're made by jibs metal flashings that will
allow you to have like a little negative detail. So
you'd have the plasterboard running into the wall, then you
put in a little negative detail and then bring your
plasterboard or you had to have your plywood rather running
(06:35):
into the wall, put in a negative detail and stop
up to that, and you end up with like a
little ten mil bead or ten mil recess running around
the perimeter that would look really tight and tidy. I
guess now, Paul, for you just a scotia and then
painted in with the wall color. If you pre paint
the scotia before it goes up, then you don't. Cutting
(06:58):
in becomes a little bit easier as well, especially when
you're trying to do paint to plywood, which is probably
going to be clear finished. Cutting in along there is
always a bit of a challenge. So if you prepaint
the scotia, it's much easier to tidy that up later on.
Oh eight one hundred eighty ten eighty is the number
to call. We'll talk all things building construction, and we'll
(07:19):
have a crack at a little bit of plumbing as well. Simon,
good morning to you. Gosh, there is something with the screen, gotcha? Silent? Simon, Hello, Sorry,
go for it.
Speaker 9 (07:30):
Okay. I have an old brass tap and I removed
I wanted to replace the washer if they want. It's
not a rubber one. It's one of those light brown ones.
Speaker 8 (07:45):
Yeah. They almost feel sort of fiberish, don't they.
Speaker 9 (07:48):
That's right?
Speaker 5 (07:49):
Yeah?
Speaker 8 (07:49):
Yeah.
Speaker 9 (07:49):
And the old one, I I can't get it off.
It just seems to be completely.
Speaker 8 (07:58):
As kind of embedded. Yeah, used together and so I.
Speaker 9 (08:06):
Ended up up doing was putting a new one over
the top of the old one, but it left me
with very little thread to screw the little nut back
on the back onto the TAP's the one that closes
off the water from coming in. So do you know
how I can get the old washer off?
Speaker 8 (08:29):
I would have thought that to be if it was me,
I would just attack it with a sharp knife. Right
in the sense that the washer itself, the fibrous one,
sits or beds against a plunger, and the plunger is
made of brass. So in the end, as long as
you're a little bit delicate, you can't really damage the
plunger as such. So I just set to it with
(08:51):
a knife, cut around the perimeter of it and then
cut it into pieces, cut it off, maybe use a
wirebrush to clean it up, and then you can seat
your new washer onto the plunger and have more turns
on the thread of the nut that goes that holds
it in place. Yeah, yeah, right, you don't have to
(09:11):
be I mean, you have to be a little bit delicate,
but you know it's it's metal versus fiber, so it'll
be fine.
Speaker 9 (09:17):
Oh okay, Can I ask you another quick question, Do
you know what a wet back is?
Speaker 8 (09:23):
Yes, So, a wet back typically is a system where
let's say you have a an argur or you know,
a type of wood burning fire, you know, either for
cooking or for heating. And then what people will do
is they'll set up a system of pipework behind there
that will have water flowing through it. The water is
(09:46):
then heated by the appliance, by either the ivan or
something like that. And what it does is you can
use it if you've got sufficient storage for all of
your water supply, or I think most commonly people use
it to preheat the water going to the cylinder. So
if so, for example, cold water is twenty two or
(10:09):
twenty three degrees, typically the maximum temperature we want coming
out of a cylinder is fifty five degrees. So if
the water coming in is already at forty degrees, for example,
because it's passed through the heating system at the back
of the wet bag, then you're using less energy to
get the temperature up. That's as I understand, that's how
the theory, that's how it works. Oh yeah, right, I was.
Speaker 9 (10:34):
Asking is because my plumber was doing some work under
the house, and there was some kind of flu that
was under the house that was going out to the side.
So I've got around the house, I've it's all closed in. Yes,
it's raised lawboards, and it was connected to one of
(10:58):
the vents on the underside of the house. So you
know how you've and you've the in the house when
you've got raised floor, it's got the concrete around on
the perimitive the house and all the events. So one
of the events has this flu attached. And the plumber said, oh,
(11:21):
that looks as though it might be to do with
an old wet back, and I was wondering what that was.
Speaker 8 (11:30):
Yeah, okay, I mean a flu typically flues run vertically
up right, they don't necessarily run across. Yeah, it's it's
it's quite possible. It's unusual, but it is quite.
Speaker 9 (11:45):
Possible, Okay, Because I was just wondering whether I could
just remove it.
Speaker 8 (11:50):
Look, I think I would trace it along from outside
to underneath the house, and if ultimately, if you get
to the end of it or where something was attached
to it, and nothing is attached to it, then yes,
you could remove it. Yeah, what's your existing hot water system,
what's the heating system.
Speaker 9 (12:08):
Electric ok yeah, low pressure.
Speaker 8 (12:12):
Yeah, okay, so that'll have that doesn't need to be flu,
but it will have an overflow so that if the
pressure builds up inside the cylinder, it overflows and the
water should flow to the outside of the building. Right,
So obviously that's a different thing. But yeah, the flu. Look,
if it's if it's not attached to anything you've been
under there, go ahead and rip it out.
Speaker 9 (12:35):
Yep.
Speaker 8 (12:35):
All right, nice to talk to you. Sign all the
best by your new salk seed B. If you've got
a question of a building nature, eight hundred and eighty
ten eighty is that number to call. So one good
morning to you.
Speaker 10 (12:52):
Morning.
Speaker 8 (12:53):
How are you morning, mate, I'm very well in yourself.
Speaker 3 (12:56):
Good, good.
Speaker 11 (13:03):
Question.
Speaker 12 (13:03):
I'm gonna love with them. I'm gonna go doing some
work and realize the platting they're still clading is getting
for us. And I saw some stuff like ants and
stuff crossing handier and it looks like we need to
change it. And knowing that lockhood, the builders are quite hesitant. Yeah,
(13:27):
anything inside outside, So just when I get some some
ideas though, the people whom I can call or what's it.
Of course, we're looking at if there's any standard costing.
Speaker 8 (13:40):
When you say that the clouding is starting to deteriorate,
or you said it's getting poorous, what do you like
is it? Is it no longer weather type, which would
be unusual, or is it just an issue around Obviously
over time, some vermin, you know, some ants and that
sort of thing I've managed to make their way into.
Speaker 12 (13:58):
It's it's all time issues. A bit of sun and
what if you are the natural elements working on it,
I've got to an excellent depend on it. It's still seen,
but you can see underneath or where the cladding is
close to the nown you could see again there's a
lot it's more deterioration there.
Speaker 8 (14:16):
Yeah, the mud or.
Speaker 12 (14:20):
Other boots as well.
Speaker 8 (14:22):
And this is one of those things that it's often
a maintenance issue over time. And I'm guessing you know,
if it's an older lockwood home, it could be sort
of forty years old something like that. Yeah, okay, well
that's forty years ago.
Speaker 6 (14:36):
Now.
Speaker 8 (14:36):
It doesn't feel like forty years ago, but it is.
It's anyway, long story, and sometimes with some of the
earlier Lockwoods, it was a metal cladding rather than a
timber cladding. Is it a metal or timber cladding.
Speaker 12 (14:55):
Its timber cladding.
Speaker 8 (14:56):
It is timber. Okay, Look, I think the great thing
with lockwood is that they're still around, right, So I
would suggest that your first call is actually to them
to go, hey, look, I've got an older building. It's
still in good condition, but I need to do some work.
You know, are there some local experts that I could
call on? And I'm sure that within their network of
(15:18):
builders and so on, they would still have people who
are involved, So I think that would be a good
source of information. Otherwise, typically, if the profile of the
weather board is still available, or if you needed to
do enough of it that it warranted the cost of
paying to have the weatherboard's custom made, just fixing the
weatherboards that are an issue you could do. I suspect
(15:41):
that the way in which we did vermin treatment forty
years ago is quite different to today. So today, if
we've got a cavity on most cladding, which we do,
there is a little you know, there are a variety
of pre made strips that will essentially prevent vermin from
getting in there, saying that ants would get through, but
other vermin won't. So it's really about mice and other
(16:05):
creatures like that to get in and nest in the cladding.
So you could go through if you really wanted to
and address that. If the ground level, and we see
this all the time on buildings. You know, a building
is built and then over time people build up garden
beds and raise levels and start to get closer and
closer to the cladding. Ideally, at a bare minimum, you
(16:27):
should have about a fifty millimeter gap from the bottom
of your cladding to any other ground surface, right, particularly
something like a garden bed. So again, if the garden
beds have grown and raised in height, strip those back
and lower those levels. Allow those boards to ventilate. If
those boards have been rotten become rotten, you could replace
(16:48):
those boards. But I think as the first step i'd know,
given that the company is still in existence and will
be for years to come, I'd get in touch with
Lockwood directly and just go, hey, look, put me in
touch with someone. Good luck at work today, Yeah, go yeah,
thank you all the best, go go go.
Speaker 11 (17:09):
Yep.
Speaker 12 (17:11):
You mentioned something about the metal clanning. We've got to reserve,
to reserve at the back of the house, and more
than most that's a common problem. The thing is could
be one of the option if Firings lock with home
and discuss that, or that's something you wouldn't recommend.
Speaker 8 (17:29):
A look In terms of no, I think I probably.
Speaker 5 (17:35):
No.
Speaker 8 (17:36):
I'd look at it and go in the end even
if it, you know, whatever the cost of doing some
remediation and some repairs, it will be considerably less than
the cost of a reclad And unless you said to me, look,
the cladding is an extremely poor condition, I would say
it doesn't strike me as an economic or environmentally friendly
(17:58):
solution to rip off a whole bunch of clouding that's
actually serviceable to replace it with a different type of platting.
That would be my approach.
Speaker 12 (18:06):
All right, now that makes sense.
Speaker 8 (18:08):
Good of you to call take care, enjoy your work today,
take care your news, stork seed. But as this is
quite in contrast to a job that I went to
look at sort of like a little community project. Hey, look,
can we do some work on this building to restore
it and get it more functional for the community, et cetera,
et cetera. But to be fair, it was in such
poor condition. You know, there were weather boards that had rotted,
(18:31):
There were weather boards that had rotted, and fallen off
or been ripped off by vandals, and then the cladding
had been or their framing had been exposed for such
a long period of time that there was extensive rot.
So it's one of those ones where you go along
to look at it and people go, oh, can we
tidy up some weather boards and repaint it? And I'm
looking at it going, well, probably fifty percent of the
(18:52):
weather boards on this elevation anyway of the building, on
one wall of the building are unserviceable. They're either completely
rotten or they're missing. Then beyond that, I can see
that in some cases fifty percent of the stud has
been and is missing, so that's got to then be replaced.
So what starts as a little job, and I'm sure
(19:12):
for many of us as home owners, this is familiar territory, right,
what starts as a little job just suddenly just spirals
out of control in a sense and becomes a much
much bigger job involving reframing parts of the building, which
also removes which means you've got to remove the internal lining.
So suddenly patching a weatherboard becomes replacing studs, replacing internal lining,
(19:36):
stopping painting inside new weather boards on the outside. Can
you get that particular profile, you can see how jobs
grow sometimes, Oh, eight hundred and eighty ten eighty is
the number to call. Will come back straight after the break.
Thank you to the texter who's come through and just said, Pete,
there's a really good Facebook group called DIY Lockwood. I
haven't looked at it. I can't vouch for it, but
(19:58):
if it's good and the advice is sound, every now
and then you do have to be a little bit
cautious about the advice. And some of the stuff you
see online, isn't it. I mean, that's it. I'm telling
you nothing you don't know. But sometimes in terms of DIY,
because look, I watch videos online as well of different
carpenters and different trades people doing things, and every now
and then I just kind of go, oh, I hope
(20:21):
people don't follow that particular piece of advice. But then
I'm playing in that space as well at the moment.
So we've got a YouTube channel that's being built and
a library of topics and discussion and top issues for
discussion are being loaded into that. So I'd like to
think that I'm a little bit more considered than some
(20:41):
in terms of the opinions that I might offer. But
that's up and running on YouTube as well. You search
for it under resident builder or Peter wolf Camp. You'll
find it there. Building up a library there quick text
as well. Hey, I'm looking at purchasing a property in Wellington.
The property needs a retaining wall to be fair. If
you've been to Wellington, you'll understand why most properties have
retaining walls. The property needs a retaining wall between the properties.
(21:02):
Who pays for it higher the lower or both regards gilly,
I would suggest that whoever gets the benefit of it
pays for it. So if you're on the high side,
and for example, you want to level out your lawn,
for example, you know where it's sloping at the moment,
you're thinking, I'd like to have a nice level lawn,
So I'm going to put a retaining wall on the
(21:23):
boundary and that will give me a level lawn. Then
you will pay for it, and it will need to
be on your side of the fence. If, for example,
you're on the lower side of the slope and you're thinking, well, actually,
if I retained a little bit of that bank, I
could create a level area in there as well. And
so it's in your benefit, but you're on the lower side,
(21:43):
then it would be on your side of the boundary
and you would need to pay for that as well.
So retaining walls not like fences in terms of being
able to seek a contribution from a neighbor. I don't
think oh, eight hundred eighty ten eighty is the number
to call and David, a very good morning to you, A.
Speaker 13 (22:04):
Very good morning, Peter. I've even intrigued with these packets,
like from trade tested. I was synthetic decking tiles, you
know kind of I think met a meter squag about
ten to a bundle. But I was thinking, I've got
a decking outside decking. It's twenty five mil highness. And
(22:29):
when the builder put it in, I queried the you know,
it's about forty years old. Now I queried the thickness
and he said no, I've got the bearers closer together
than normal. So I don't know he's a builder or not.
And anyway, I just thought, well to reinforce that deck
and make it newer. Are these synthetic? I don't know
(22:51):
if that plastic wood or all plastic. Have you any
dealings with them?
Speaker 8 (22:57):
As in a side I did buy four outdoor chairs
from trade tested just the other day. But that's not
really what you're asking about. Very nice cheers by the way,
But okay, so it's synthetic decking tiles one of the
issues meter square right, okay, oh yeah, I can see
(23:19):
them here, so.
Speaker 13 (23:21):
We also I asked, you know, I queried it and
it said yes, can be laid it straight over top
of wooden decking.
Speaker 8 (23:28):
I just wanted to job, right, Okay, okay, So I'm
looking at them now. So what they what they are
is you've got the decking material, but underneath you've got
like a plastic grid, right, And that was going to
be my concern is that if you put you know,
another surface on the top of your pine and there's
no ability, like, you won't stop the moisture. So moisture
(23:50):
will get trapped between the two surfaces and that will
accelerate the decay. So timber is treated in a different
way depending on what the conditions of its use are.
So something that is all going to be saturated like
it's in the ground or so on, gets treated to
a higher level. Timber that is treated for outdoor use.
(24:13):
H three typically is designed to get wet but to
dry out. But if you ended up sandwiching something over
the top of your existing decking and it wouldn't dry out,
then it would accelerate the decay. In this instance, here
the packs of deck tiles actually have a plastic grid
underneath them, which means that there will be airflow between
(24:36):
your new surface and your old surface, in which case, yeah,
I mean that would be my primary concern is the airflow.
Speaker 13 (24:44):
Well, the original decking in between the planks, you got
the gaps, and.
Speaker 8 (24:51):
Yes, but you imagine if if imagine, if you were
just to go out and lay decking straight over the
top ninety degrees to your existing one, every intersection would
have a space of let's say ninety by ninety where
the two surfaces would be held together, and you'll get
moisture trapped in their and you'll get decay. Whereas, I'm
not necessarily promoting this particular product, but from what I
(25:13):
can see there is it's elevated, which allows for drainage
and for ventilation. So yeah, it's to be fair, it's
not a solution that I've ever thought of, but that's
quite clever. That's out of the box thinking I can't
see downside to it. I mean, it would be interesting
to know what when they say synthetic, you know what
(25:36):
that actually is.
Speaker 13 (25:41):
Yes, I don't know, but it just says it takes
heat and that there's a certain amount of expansion and
that word.
Speaker 8 (25:48):
Oh no, it is a timber, it's and the good
thing is it's FSC. So this is the Forest Stewardship Council.
This is actually just isn't aside really important if you're
ever considering buying timber, perhaps from overseas in particular, or
timber a product that has timber that has sorn and
(26:09):
sourced overseas. So the Forest Stewardship Council is a worldwide
organization that you can apply to have your product sort
of licensed by them or endorsed by them, And in
order to do so, you need to prove that it's
been logged in a sustainable manner and that you've met
(26:29):
certain environmental requirements. So the fact that this item or
these products actually have FSC registration is good.
Speaker 14 (26:41):
Is a good right?
Speaker 8 (26:42):
Yeah, well, no, it's good in terms of it's good
that you know the manufacturer has gone to the Forest
Stewardship Council to seek their approval for the manner in
which they harvest the timber, because you know, we've all
seen pictures from South America and from Southeast Asia where
(27:03):
you know, indiscriminate logging has destroyed enormous swaths of the planet.
Right now, you don't want to be buying timber from
people that collect it in that way. You want to
be buying timber from companies that do some sort of
environmental management or they're replanting and that sort of thing,
and only and those sorts of companies will get this
(27:24):
FSC registration, which I think is really really important. Yeah, look,
no reason for me to say you can't do it.
I think it would work.
Speaker 13 (27:35):
Okay, That's that's all I wanted to know.
Speaker 8 (27:37):
To be fair, it's a solution that I hadn't thought of.
So I like that as well. And if I steal
your idea, I'll think of you. Thanks a lot, David,
you take care. That's great. To be fair, it wouldn't
be the first idea that I've stolen from this program.
That is the nature of this program. People offer ideas,
and every now and then I'll walk away and go
(27:58):
that's a good one. Oh eight hundred eighty ten eighty
is the number to call. Will take a short break
back with philp in just a moment you and new
talks there'd be The lines are open the number to
call eight hundre at eighty ten eighty and our expert
guest Bryce McDermott from Razine Paints will join us in
the next hour. So if you've got any specific painting questions,
feel free to text those through right now to nine
(28:18):
to nine two and Bryce will be with us in
the next hour. A couple of other texts with regard
to the retaining walls pete retaining Could it be the
person who alters the natural layer of the land. Yeah,
that's another way of looking at it, but it's I
think the clearer way of looking at in terms of
who would be liable for a retaining wall and who
would pay for one if there's not one there already
(28:40):
is sort of who gets the benefit of it, And
obviously who gets the benefit of it is the one
who's going to alter it for their benefit. So again,
if you're on the top and you want to level
out part of your section and you're going to build
a retaining wool, then you're going to pay for it,
and it's going to be on your side of the boundary.
Oh eight hundred and eighty ten eighty is the number.
(29:01):
Call Phil A very good morning to you.
Speaker 7 (29:05):
Yeah, yeah, look, this might be something for Bryce. I
just he'll be on later on. But I've got a
Galvani signed roof yep that I was wanting to get painted.
But I've been hearing them advertising about sealing a roof
rather than painting it, and I wasn't too sure what
(29:25):
that was about, or whether one was better than the other.
Speaker 8 (29:28):
Maybe you could help, Yeah, yeah, it's an interesting thing
that's kind of a It's obviously a new product and
a new notion around what do we do to protect roofs? Right? Look,
I've painted any number of roofs over the years, and
you know, typically what we would do is clean off
(29:50):
any rust, do some spot prime, applying the Titian primer,
and then apply a couple of top coats over the top.
And without a doubt I know that when I have
done it, or when other people that I've been involved
with have have painted roofs, it does protect the roof
and extend it's life, right, which is what it's all about,
the notion of sealing it is doing exactly the same thing.
(30:13):
But I think what they're looking at is the application
of the product. The final coat might be a little
bit thicker or would be a little bit thicker, so
we're talking microns here. Ultimately, this is what I think
it all comes down to is the preparation. Right. So,
if you've got an old roof which is in poor condition,
(30:34):
and you're thinking, I want to extend the life of
the roof and push back that time that you have
to spend the money and do the reroof, and you're
looking at it and you're going, okay, well, look what
I'll do is I'll get it sealed, for example, and
that will give me more time. It's still going to
be about the preparation. So you know, you still need
to remove the rust, you still need to do the
(30:56):
treatment of the rust. You still need to have an
adhesion primer, you need to make sure the surface is
thoroughly cleaned. And then yes, if you apply a sealer
coat over there that's of ational thickness, it will in
my mind, that will give you more time. Yeah, So
I think it's it's always about preparation, and that would
be doubly true because you know, particularly if the notion
(31:20):
is that somehow. You know, a viscous material, a liquid
material is applied over the top and that will address
your issues with a gulf sized ball hole in the roof, right,
you know, I don't I don't think that's reasonable to that.
But if if she was even I was looking at
my garage roof. So here's me talking about roofs. But
(31:41):
I've never painted the garage roof because it was always
my intention to replace it. It's got you know, rust
all over the top of it. It's not leaking, but
eventually it will deteriorate. So you know, if I was
to paint that, I'd want to make sure that I
got rid of the surface rust, that I applied some
rust primer to those areas or rust treatment to it,
and then the adhesion primer and then the top coats,
(32:03):
and that would be the same all over the place.
Speaker 7 (32:06):
Yeah, because from from what I sort of heard, it
was it had it was part of it was a
rubber compound.
Speaker 8 (32:13):
So you know, again it's that it's a viscous material,
like a thicker material that will go over the top
and that will work as long as it sticks right,
as long as it bonds to the surface, And that's
always about the preparation. So I think if you if
you were making inquiries about it, the question would be
how do you do the preparation? How do I know
(32:34):
that that you know, what are the guarantees that sort
of thing.
Speaker 7 (32:38):
Yeah, I've seen sort of you know, like on an
old roof that's been painted. When it deteriorates, you get
the paint will start to flake, but you can usually
sort of paint over that. And I was thinking, oh, well,
if that happened with a something that had a rubber
sort of coaching on it, then that might be you know,
the roof might have to be replaced. Then you know
(33:00):
that that would be much too much of a job
to sort of see it again, to reprepare it. I suppose.
Speaker 8 (33:08):
Yeah, I think there probably has to be a point
at which you say, look the substrate, the actual metal
underneath the roof, it has deterior to such a point
that no matter how much more material I put over
the top of it, it's still going to need replacement. Right,
But then it's amazing how long you can eke things
out for. So again, there's a property that I look
(33:30):
after which has got it's only a small roof on
a little lean to at the back of a bricontile unit.
It had metal on it. It's got very low fall
ponds with water. I've put so many coats of various
liquid membranes over the top, but hey, fingers crossed right now,
it's still weather type, you know. So all I've been
able to do is just push back that inevitable date
that I might have to say it's time to replace it. Yeah, preparation, preparation, preparation.
Speaker 6 (33:57):
Just well, I.
Speaker 7 (33:58):
Suppose one thing, Dad, when we got the new roofine
it was galvanized then, yes, sold just to let it
you make use of the of the oxidation protection from
the galvanizing. And I suppose we've done that but probably
left it, you know, sort of ten years.
Speaker 8 (34:16):
But this is your the roof. Is it galvanized or
is it zincaloom?
Speaker 7 (34:21):
Some are zinc aloon and some as galvanized. Right, it
all looks about the same now. So it's got a
few russ areas I suppose around some of the screw
and our hold, but yeah, generally it's not too bad
that it's probably the time it needs some sort of
treatment on it, just to let a roof oxidize for
(34:45):
a few years.
Speaker 8 (34:45):
Is that a Well, that's absolutely fine. Yeah, absolutely, Bearing
in mind that galvanized roofing iron and zincaloo roofing iron
are two different products, right, and they perform over time differently.
So again, as it happens when we did the roof
(35:06):
on our own home and when I did the extension,
I just wanted zincaloom, right, I just wanted it to
be and I've left it and I could leave that
as it is for the forever, right and until the
roof needs replacing and shivers. It's already almost twenty years old, right,
and that's zincaloom, right, and I've got no deterioration. But
that's because it's zincaloom. Galvanized iron works differently because it's
(35:29):
a galvanized coating to the iron, and so once that
the corrosion starts to penetrate through the galvanizing gets into
the actual iron, that's where you'll get rust happening. Okay, Yeah,
so worth having a bit of a read around the
difference between galvanized iron and zincloom. There are two different products.
Speaker 7 (35:49):
Okay, And if you went for the painting, that'll be
the same thing. Again, make sure it's all.
Speaker 8 (35:54):
Preparation, preparation, preparation, absolutely, yeah, always as shortcuts there. Nice
of you to call Phil. Thanks, you have a great
day to take care all of this. It is coming
up eleven minutes away from seven o'clock. We'll be back
with Tony after the break. You would talk, it'd be
we've got news coming up top of the hour at seven.
But right now, Tony, good morning, Good morning, Peter.
Speaker 15 (36:15):
It's good to talk to you again. And you I
rang you about a year ago and we had a
flooded house. It's now being bought out Category three and
I've bought another property, which is good news. I've got
to move on with my life. And I had a
building inspection done, but we've purchased it anyway. But there's
(36:35):
a concrete landing and steps which goes up to the
front door, and the underneath concrete landing you can see
all of the reinforcing has become exposed. And when they
did a building inspection, they said to me, water has
been penetrating through the concrete, causing the rust in the steel,
(36:58):
and then then some of the not much just like
the surface of the concrete has fallen away. Now he's
suggestion was that I needed to take all of the paint.
That's because it's fifty one years oldest house, take all
the paint off the landing, and then put a he said,
a good quality celant on and then obviously paint it
(37:19):
over the top. But I haven't got a clue what
sort of product put on there.
Speaker 8 (37:24):
Yeah, I mean, look, that's that's reasonably sound advice. So
how many like how big is the stairs? Is it
like two steps up to the front.
Speaker 15 (37:33):
Door or I know there's about the steps seem to
be all right, there's about ten.
Speaker 8 (37:38):
Steps, okay, all right, so that's great.
Speaker 15 (37:40):
And then you've got this landing, which is a normal
sized concrete landing. When it goes penetrates just into a
recess for the front door, and it's the area underneath
where the steels exposed is about about a foot by a.
Speaker 8 (37:54):
Foot, right, okay, all right, Well, look I think treating
the corrosion would be a good idea as well.
Speaker 15 (38:03):
So what's oh yeah, I'm trying to do that.
Speaker 8 (38:05):
Yeah right, great, okay, so you kind of strip back
any loose material and then treat the corrosion, so a
rust converter and then some russ primer. Then you'll need
to do some patching, so you'll need a sementitious based
product that you can use with some adhesion to patch
the area and make the steps and the rises smooth again.
Speaker 15 (38:28):
And then so what is a semious?
Speaker 6 (38:30):
Oh?
Speaker 8 (38:31):
So, like there's there's lots of products. They're almost like
a powder that you can mix up now that are
designed for repairing masonry. Right, so if you've got gaps
and cracks and masonry, you can use different products. Typically
they're either Seeker or see Mix and so on. Are
two brand names that do this sort of thing. Then
(38:53):
so are they painted at the moment or are they
just exposed painted?
Speaker 15 (38:58):
The steps are not painted, it's the top landings painted
and it's like the paints cracked. I would say it's
a good ten years since thenybody painted it at least
and then obviously water's got in under the paint and
some of it's blistered.
Speaker 11 (39:13):
Yeap.
Speaker 15 (39:15):
Would I take all the paint off completely, like put
a grind on it?
Speaker 8 (39:19):
I probably would, because of course, what you know, inevitably
what happens is the paint deteriorates with the paint surface
deteriorates and loses its grip. On the concrete below. So
if you just supply paint over the top of paint
that might flake off later on.
Speaker 15 (39:38):
Then yeah, that's my thinking.
Speaker 8 (39:40):
Yeah, saying that if and I've only got thirty seconds,
So if if the paint doesn't come off, let's say,
if you hit it with a tungsten scraper or some
coarse sand paper or something like that, then it's probably
sound enough. But you would need a primer that will
adhere to the existing paint and also penetrate your new masonry,
(40:01):
which will be a pigmented seiler. And then you could
use paving paint over the top of the and then
I would add some grip to that to make sure
that it doesn't get slippery. But stay tuned for with Bryce,
we'll talk about that as well. We are back with
after the new sport and weather. Remember Painting Expert next.
Speaker 16 (40:19):
Hour, Yvonne wobblock Crown because the charge Jesus cousin lies
(40:51):
the may.
Speaker 4 (40:54):
Then he sends him to the final school and RDIO.
Speaker 8 (41:00):
Welcome back to the show. My name's Pete wolf Camp.
This is the resident builder on Sunday. We are here
to talk about your projects, about your house in the
nicest possible way, of course, I think tasks that you
might want to do, tasks that you might want to
get others to do. So we're talking about, you know,
the sort of the difference between ceiling roof ceiling and
roof painting. Earlier on, just before the break there, Tony
(41:22):
with a set of concrete stairs that have had a
bit of deterioration over time. So again, you know, if
moisture gets into and I'm sure engineers describe it differently,
but the common phrase is what we call concrete cancer,
where moisture has got through the surface of the masonry
because masonry is always typically slightly porous, and it's the
(41:46):
moisture has absorbed far enough into the masonry to then
activate rust in the steel and the steel reinforcing that
then as it starts to starts to expand slightly and
it pushes the masonry surface off, and that typically happens
if the reinforcing is too close to the surface of
(42:06):
the concrete. So if you're doing you know, foundations, for example,
then typically the inspector will check that you're reinforcing's not
sitting on the ground right, especially in foundations for houses
and something you want to have that I think it's
typically seventy five millimeters up. You want to make sure
that you're reinforcing is fifty mili in from the edge
(42:27):
of the concrete, whether that's in the ground or in
a wall, etc. Etc. There are rules around this to
prevent what is exactly has happened at Tony's place, saying
that not a significant issue for Tony. It's relatively minor.
But treat the rust to the patch, apply a new
coat of paint over the top. And the grit that
I'm talking about is I've done it on concrete stairs
(42:50):
leading up to entrance ways and landings. Is if you
just paint concrete, typically it gets quite slippery. So I
do the adhesion primer. I do a first coat, then
I mix up some paint and I make it into
a slurry with some in it, and then I'll paint
the surface of the stair where you're putting your foot
(43:11):
with the paint that's got some grit in it, which
means that it's a little bit more slip resistant, which
is really important. Oh, eight hundred eighty ten eighty is
the number. Call cricky. People aren't liking the music today,
Thank goodness. It's not a music show. Eh, it's a
building show. Oh eight hundred eighty ten eighty is the number?
(43:31):
Call quick couple of texts actually before we go to
the calls, PETE, what house size or what size house
is permitted without a permit? Zero?
Speaker 6 (43:40):
Right?
Speaker 8 (43:40):
You can't build a house without a permit right now.
And it's slightly worrying in the sector that people think
that what is being talked about is actually law at
the moment it is not. You need a building consent
to build a house. End of story. And then another
(44:02):
question with upgrading a bathroom which has a toilet that
is entered from the inside, we are unable to find
a replacement for the same type of system. Any suggestions.
So typically, if you go back to thinking sort of
nineteen seventy ish, often toilets will have a e vent
that comes from the system itself, right, so that the
(44:26):
basically air is allowed to be drawn into the system
via a duct or an opening in the side of
the system that is vented to the outside. Now we
don't do that anymore. We tend to vent the entire
drainage system so that individual toilets don't have their own vents.
So I think the answer to your question there, Dave,
is that when your plumber comes to replace the toilet,
(44:49):
they will need to do some work on the actual
drainage the wastewater system in the house to provide a
terminal vent to the system in order to ensure that
when as water is being sucked out of the traps,
that air is allowed to come in so that the
water doesn't get sucked out completely. That's what the terminal
(45:09):
vent does. Oh, eight hundred and eighty ten eighty is
the number to call. Lou A very good morning to you.
Hang on. The fingers don't work. The mouse works, but
the fingers don't work. Lou Good morning, good morning.
Speaker 7 (45:22):
Good morning, morning preach.
Speaker 15 (45:25):
What can you tell me about bora?
Speaker 11 (45:26):
Mate?
Speaker 8 (45:27):
Bora a small bug typically on the wing about October.
Speaker 13 (45:35):
October.
Speaker 11 (45:36):
Yeah, that's fly spray will kills.
Speaker 8 (45:40):
Oh no, I think I'd go to the hardware store
and go and get products that are specifically for bora.
And I mean back in the day, it used to
be bora bombs that you lit right, Do you remember those?
Speaker 6 (45:53):
Yeah?
Speaker 8 (45:53):
Yeah, alright, they don't exist anymore, thankfully, because they can
be quite explosive. Well, I do have a funny story
to tell about those, but I probably won't tell it
on the radio. So you can buy either injected systems now.
So if you if you're trying to treat individual borer,
let's say in a piece of furniture, you can go
(46:16):
with a nozzle and inject borer killer basically into individual openings,
or you can use a sort of a more extensive treatment,
which is like an aerosol can that you'll put into
an enclosed space and just release that and try and
treat them. But typically listening to RID for all of
these years, borer are on the wing around September October,
(46:39):
so possibly a little.
Speaker 11 (46:40):
Bit late, right now, Alkova, Alko, Yeah, good.
Speaker 8 (46:47):
And look, while like I've seen, I've seen some timber
that has decayed to the point of collapse right from bora,
but it's it is relatively uncommon, and it's it's not
as much of an issue now because obviously in the
last forty odd years we've been using treated timber and
timber treatment that's designed to prevent insects from making a
(47:13):
home in it. So it'll it'll be older timber that's
an issue.
Speaker 6 (47:18):
Okay, Pete, Yeah.
Speaker 8 (47:19):
Okay, all best you lou, thank you you have a
great day. All of best. Oh eight hundred and eighty
ten eighty the number to call. Remember any specific painting
questions send them through text to nine to ninety two
and Bryce, our painting expert, will be with us at
around seven forty five this morning. Cody, you're very good
morning to you.
Speaker 3 (47:38):
Good morning, Peter, good morning. I'll describe the layout of
the house before I ask the question if I made
sure we have a small guarade, the sidewall of which
forms this is attached to the sidewall of the house,
so that the side door of the house as it
comes down makes the roof of the roof of the garage.
(48:05):
The side wall of the house was repaired with weather board,
and I want to law how far away from the
roof of the guarages would be the law border of
the weather boards.
Speaker 8 (48:23):
So the door has been taken out and replaced with.
Speaker 3 (48:26):
Weatherboards the wall that part of the wall was damaged
weather boards. Yes, and as you come down it is
very close to the roof of the small garage which
is attached to.
Speaker 8 (48:45):
The house, right, okay, yes, And then where that junction
is between the roof of the garage and the house,
is there a flashing on top of the roof, and
then the weatherboards come down and stop above that flashing. Correct, Okay,
Typically we'd aim to have a gap there of about well,
(49:06):
it can be as little as twenty to thirty millimeters,
but it should be something like that. It should be
a gap of about at least twenty to thirty milimeters
to allow for airflow, right, because what we don't want
to do is bring our weather boards down hard on
top of the flashing and then it traps water in
there and then it soaks up into the cuttage of
(49:26):
the weather board sometimes and that will accelerate decay.
Speaker 3 (49:30):
Yeah, that's in my concern. I'm not a builder, but
a general common senses that weatherboard is in contact with
this flashing, it will be in contact with water and
the course damage.
Speaker 8 (49:43):
No, it shouldn't be so ideally, you know, twenty to
thirty milimeters will prevent that, but you know even ten
milimeters will, But anything less than that and you're likely
to get water that's trapped there and soaks up into
the timber.
Speaker 3 (50:00):
Yeah. How can I get a building inspector to come
and do you report on this? How do I set
about that?
Speaker 5 (50:09):
So?
Speaker 8 (50:10):
Was this work done? Did you and did someone come
and do the work? And now you've realized that it's
been done like this? Or is this has the is
this existing work?
Speaker 3 (50:22):
No, this was repaired nine months ago, one year ago.
But I couldn't have a crosser look right because of
the risk on the roll.
Speaker 8 (50:31):
Yeah, fair enough too. I would suggest that you go
back to the contractor that did the work and you know,
get them to come back and fix it. And the
simplest thing might be to simply remove that weather well,
try and pop that weather board out and cut it
down then replace it. But that's not always that easy
(50:55):
to do. If it's only three or four weather boards,
then maybe the contractor has to strip all of the
weather boards off and replace them. But certainly having a
gap in there is not suitable. Having no gap it's
not suitable, sorry.
Speaker 3 (51:10):
Because because of the slope of the restrove that the
weatherboard come to rest or stand next to it involt
several pieces of weatherboard because of the stope. So it
did not removing just one weather board. It has to
(51:30):
be a series of weatherboard needs to be removed to
rectify this.
Speaker 8 (51:37):
See again, what I would say is that you know,
given that the work was done. You instructed a carpenter,
a builder to do the work about nine months ago.
Builders should builders should know what the requirements are. Now.
You know, if the builder can come back and prove
to you that it meets the requirements of the building
(51:59):
Code and provide evidence for that, then maybe you need
to accept that. But I suspect that the per will.
I suspect that the builder might find it difficult to
prove that what they've done is compliant. Yeah, I'm just
(52:23):
looking at a couple of the brand's pages at the
moment right, So for example, I'm just looking at some
detail on the brand's website. Now. So Brands is the
Building Research Association of New Zealand. They provide evidence and
research to the government around building durability and product performance,
(52:48):
et cetera, et cetera. So you know, typical detail here
is that you've got roofing coming up to weatherboard cladding,
You've got a flashing and then they are saying you
need a thirty five millimeter gap to the apron flashing.
So and I would agree with that. So that's I've found.
The interesting thing is it took me while we were talking,
(53:09):
took me what fifteen twenty seconds to find that information online.
So if your builders saying no, no, no, there's no
rules around it, or I've done it right, then I
think they're trying to pull the wool over your eyes.
Speaker 3 (53:24):
Yeah, because we had a build a wisiting voice and
a different purpose covered from about a week ago and
he put his arms up in horror and said this
should be thirty five milimeters.
Speaker 8 (53:33):
Well, and that's exactly what I've found on the on
the brand's website, and it's taken me, you know, a
minute to find it. So yeah, yeah, I think go
back to your builder and look if you like, where
did I I've gone to? If you search flashings brands
or brand's website and then search for flashings and weatherboards,
(53:54):
you'll find it print off the pdf. In fact, it's
in build article one six two. There you go, Build
article one six two. That information there, the builder comes back,
you go, here's the documentation. This is what should have
been done. You haven't done it. I want you to
do it, and I'm certainly not paying for it. Is
(54:15):
the way that I would approach it. Cody, thank you
and good luck with that. It's you know, from a
trades point of view. It is always disappointing when you
know we're involved in discussions looking at work that is
relatively straightforward with that's just done poorly or without lack
of understanding, And this to me shows a lack of understanding,
(54:37):
lack of understanding about building science, a lack of understanding
about you know, basic ways that we build in order
to prevent to decay. So if you're going to jam
your weather boards hard down onto your flashing, it's going
to rot over time. That's why we have a thirty
five mire gap. It's as simple as that. Oh eight,
(54:58):
one hundred and eighty ten eighty is the number to
call if you've got building questions, we'll take those. If
you've got any specific painting questions. Bryce McDermott, our painting expert,
will join us at around seven forty five this morning.
So got some good ones already trickier the better to
be fair. I quite like the tricky ones. Text them
through nine to nine two. Back after the break its
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(56:07):
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B that'd be me. Oh, eight hundred and eighty ten
(56:28):
eighty is the number to call a text message. There's
no excuse for that, whether or detail. This is referring
to Cody's call a moment ago. Everything can be googled
to get the correct information that builders should be on
a blacklist and there needs to be a fine for
work like that. I'm in I'm a lab oh been laborer.
(56:51):
I'm a laborer. I presume been doing this thirty five years.
And if I come across something I don't know, I
simply google it. Well, you're right, I mean, that's the thing.
There is so much good information out there. There's also
some pretty rubbish information out there. But if you go
to a trusted source like, for example, brands, then you'll
find information that's been well researched. And again, what I
(57:12):
do find useful with some of the brand's documents that
are available. And this isn't just available you know, to
me as an LBP or anything like this. I searched
for it online. Found that detail, like I say, within
forty seconds or fifty seconds or something like that to
get the detail is that it's public, it's well researched typically,
(57:32):
and it's available to all of us online. So that
whole issue around what distance should you have between cladding
and flashing? There it is, and also some really good
pictures as well, and it's all available. Oh, eight hundred
and eighty ten eighty is the number to call if
you've got a painting question. We're getting some great questions.
Feel free to text for a couple more. Bryce will
(57:54):
be joining us at around calld to seven This coord
to W eight. This morning, Catherine, A very good morning
to you.
Speaker 5 (58:00):
Oh good morning Page. My toilet is one of the
old score ones with the side vents at the side
of the bowl. And I just got the tail end
of the conversation you had with that people having trouble
trying to find a new toilet to six. Could you
please just run over sation again from they please so
(58:23):
in your situation.
Speaker 8 (58:25):
And I've seen them, you know, basically in most houses
before the nineteen seventies, is my guess. I did a
bathroom in a nineteen sixties bricantile unit a couple of
years ago, and it had exactly that. It had the
old you know, wooden system or wood covered system with
a nice copper insert, and you've got a pipe that
(58:46):
drops down into the back of the pan, and then
out of the side of the pan was another vent
that went into the wall and then outside up the
wall and out through the roof. I think it was
so typically today, when we're doing wastewater systems inside a house,
let's say, you know, we typically we know where the
(59:07):
connection is to outside, right, so we've got one hundred
mil wastewater pipe in the ground, might have a gully dish,
and then you'll have a connections that run through the house.
One hundred milli line running to a toilet, then a
maybe a sixty milli line running to a shower. And
it's like a imagine the roots of a tree. Right,
you got the tree trunk, and you got all the
(59:28):
branches that go to the different fittings around the house.
And typically one of those lines will extend past and
go up and that one is just open to the air,
so that when you use the toilet use a hand
basin that's got a p trap on it, air is
(59:48):
allowed into the system, which means that the water as
it's rushing out doesn't suck all of the water out
of the traps. Right, So every basin that we have
has a trap below it and that holds water in
the base of the trap, and that stops the foul
air that's in the wastewater line from coming out in
(01:00:09):
the bathroom. Right, it's the water in the trap that
stops the foul vapors from coming into the house. So
without a vent, that water will get sucked out. Now
that's how we do it today. That's sort of modern plumbing,
I guess back then with toilets, and that they vented
them individually. You can't buy, to the best of my knowledge,
(01:00:31):
you can't buy toilets anymore that vent individually. So you
need to make sure that your your wastewater pipework inside
the house has a terminal vent on it. And that's
what you've got to talk to your plumber about. And
that might just mean that where the connection, for example,
to the toilet is is in your instance, is the
(01:00:54):
toilet on a timber floor, a suspended floor, so the
drainage connection is accessible and it's below there. Yeah, okay,
So it might be that a junction is added underneath
the floor penetrate out through the wall and up the
outside of the house and that becomes your terminal vent.
Great something like that. But you know, this is work
(01:01:14):
that should be done to ensure that the system works properly.
And of course this is work that should only be
done by a registered plumber.
Speaker 5 (01:01:24):
Oh yes, oh yes, oh yes, there's a lot of
people out there masquerading as plumbers.
Speaker 8 (01:01:31):
Yeah. Well again, the great thing with you know, plumbers
and electricians and gas fitters and drain layers. Is that
they are all registered trades, right, so anyone who is
qualified should be able to provide you with their license,
and all of their information is provided on a database
which you could search. So again, you know, never allow
(01:01:52):
someone who is seemingly masquerading as a plumber or an
electrician to come and do what is restricted work without
proving their identity. If you don't know them, well that's it.
Speaker 5 (01:02:04):
And sometimes even recommend for friends of friends can prove
fatal as well.
Speaker 8 (01:02:10):
So it's always a tricky thing recommending people. And you know,
I obviously I get asked every now and then, you know,
and most of the time the people that I recommend
do a great job, but every now and then we
all make mistakes, right, So it's a bit anyway, that's
another matter, but that basically is the system. So if
(01:02:30):
your older plumbing system has event on on an individual toilet,
you just need to adjust the way that the plumbing
has worked out in the house.
Speaker 5 (01:02:39):
Great, I kind of thought that, but these days I
like to triple check everything.
Speaker 8 (01:02:45):
Put on you too, good on you?
Speaker 5 (01:02:48):
Oh well, look you have a nice Christmas?
Speaker 11 (01:02:50):
Thank you? Okay, and thank you?
Speaker 8 (01:02:53):
And is it too early to say yeah, I think
it has feel. I know it's the first of December,
which is scary in its own way. Yeah, it is scary,
isn't it first to December already? I just thinking about
all those jobs that I wrote down on a piece
of paper that I would get done this year. To
(01:03:14):
be fair, I haven't got a lot of them done.
Other things have gotten away, including making giant hats for plays,
which worked out quite well. It was quite nice to
see that, just in a quiet moment, roll out onto
the stage at the Artea Center. I mentioned last week
that I had spent quite a happy sort of day
in a bit making a giant top hat as a
(01:03:36):
mad Hatter as in Alice in Wonderland in my workshop
last week, and then I had to make a few adjustments.
To be fair, there was some creative differences, so I
went back on the Monday, made some adjustments to the hat,
and then yesterday at the Artea Center during National Youth
Theater's performance of Alice a Wonderland Music Hall, out rolled
(01:03:58):
the hat. I'm not giving anything away. I'm just saying
that if you want to go, there are still tickets
available today. Two shows today and then that's it for
the kids, all two hundred and something of them who
are proud of this musical theater. It was great, actually,
it was wonderful last night. Oh, eight hundred eighty ten
eighty is the number to call. We'll take a break,
then we'll talk to Neville. If you are at all
(01:04:19):
idly curious about the hat that I made, I did
put some post pictures up on Instagram. Actually, so if
you just search resident builder on Instagram you'll find them
there me working away on the giant hat. It's a
lot of fun. Actually, eight hundred eighty ten eighty is
the number to call. Neville. Greetings, Hi, Peter, how Neville? Good,
(01:04:40):
thank you.
Speaker 17 (01:04:42):
I've got a house with a two story house scott
block basement, and then it's got a large window that
goes right up to the apex, and the window is
writting out down the bottom right. It's also cancidly that
(01:05:04):
over the block work.
Speaker 8 (01:05:06):
Yes a foot and then you've.
Speaker 17 (01:05:09):
Got a deck which is coming through the bottom. The
bearers are coming through and meeting the bearers of the house,
which has caused all the rotting. Right yep, there's two
beams going through the roof that is parallel with the ridge.
(01:05:35):
Ridge line and they're held up in the middle of
the living room with two posts and then it goes
to the other side above the window. So I've had
Address to a look at about a year ago, and
he took too long to do anything about your record.
(01:05:57):
He couldn't get the engineer to sort of want to
look at it, so it sort of.
Speaker 8 (01:06:05):
Sat here and yeah, that's all right. I mean, I'm
pleased that you've engaged a professional, so to speak, because
you know, it sounds like the scope of the repair
is slightly beyond just a repair in terms of you've
now got to move into that remediation phase. And you know,
(01:06:29):
one of the things that I guess in modern building
methodology we spend a lot of time focused on is
moisture ingress for obvious reasons, but also flashing details. And
we were talking about that earlier with Cody. So you know,
in I'm assuming from what you're saying that the way
in which it was constructed in the past, where you've
got beams that run from inside the building to outside
(01:06:53):
of the building, that flashing that detail is really critical.
Now today you can buy you can either have made
custom made flashings or you can buy proprietary ones that
allow you to seal that penetration really well. That stops
water effectively sitting on top of the beam that can't
leavers tracking along the top and going straight inside the building,
(01:07:14):
which is probably what's happened.
Speaker 17 (01:07:17):
The thing is that I want to swap out that window.
Speaker 8 (01:07:21):
Yeah, okay, bind snyder in.
Speaker 17 (01:07:24):
Then whether the existing blocks will take that weight, what
has to be done around supporting a larger sort of
you know, a full length it's probably about six meters,
right window.
Speaker 8 (01:07:47):
Okay, that's that's fairly significant. I think, you know, if
you've got I'm just thinking about work that you can
do without necessarily requiring a consent, versus work that does
require a consent. So, for example, if you've got an
existing window and you want to change that to a door,
typically you can do that without necessarily requiring a consent
(01:08:08):
as long as you don't extend the width of the opening, right,
So you can take out the framing below, but you
can't extend the width. As soon as you extend the
width triggers requirement for building consent. So if that's what
you're thinking about doing, you'll need to get a consent.
If you're just taking out a window and putting in
a set of a sliding door into the existing opening.
(01:08:30):
I guess doing that amount of work will also allow
you to expose those cant leave a jost and assess
their condition. It sounds like if there is significant decay
in there, you're probably going to have to replace those,
which means replacing timber well back inside the building. That's
then a structural issue, So I think I would get
(01:08:50):
specific engineering advice on that. Have it drafted up.
Speaker 17 (01:08:53):
I think the actual house barers are okay.
Speaker 8 (01:08:56):
Yeah, in terms of bearing on top of the concrete wall,
I think the concrete wall would probably be okay. Again,
worth getting specific advice, but typically they're okay. If you
needed to, you could solid fill some of it, but
typically they're okay.
Speaker 17 (01:09:14):
So a slide away then, because you've got high windows
as well above right the actual you know you've got
like a V yes of windows.
Speaker 8 (01:09:27):
Surely if you were looking at replacing it, you would
replace the entire joinery section. So you take out everything
that's there, including the V shape or that runs to
an apex, and replace it all with a new set
of joinery rather than just trying to keep the original
windows upstairs more in the upper part and replace the
slider downstairs, right, I would have thought, because then you know,
(01:09:52):
if you're trying to put new joinery into existing joinery effectively,
then you've also got you know, flashing details that you
have to address there, because what you don't want is
that a leak occurs at that junction between you new
joinery and your older existing joinery above it, and if
you haven't flashed it properly, that's what will happen over time.
Speaker 17 (01:10:12):
So this window, like these two beams that are on
the outside the roof, they go straight up from this
window and they're sitting on the window sill.
Speaker 8 (01:10:25):
Right, Okay, look, I think definitely you're going to need
to get specific design on this because you know, and
I've seen this before sometimes with older construction, where you know,
the window itself is offering up support to the structure
above it, so you'll you'll have a wall that's literally
(01:10:46):
resting on you know, the mullions of the existing joinery,
and when you take that out, you find that actually
the lintel is insufficient and it's loading up or it
won't take the load of the roof above it. I
very much am getting the impression that you're going to
need to get specific design and and do that. It's
(01:11:07):
going to end up being I think a fairly significant
job by the sound of it. I wish you well
with all of that, Neville, good luck, but do get
specific design. Thanks for you call. Radio. We're going to
take very short break. Do we need to take a
break now?
Speaker 2 (01:11:23):
Ah?
Speaker 8 (01:11:23):
Yeah we can. Okay, let's do that. Then we've got
Bryce who is going to answer your painting question straight
after the break, Radio, Bryce McDermott, Welcome to the show.
As always, lovely to have you with us on a
Sunday morning. How are you, Bryce?
Speaker 14 (01:11:36):
Not too bad mate?
Speaker 10 (01:11:37):
Yourself good?
Speaker 8 (01:11:38):
Yeah, not too shabby at all. Actually, thank you very much.
Speaker 14 (01:11:40):
That's good.
Speaker 8 (01:11:41):
Now we talk about painting, but we should actually take
a step back and just go let's do the safety
stuff and take a break and just take a moment
to think about doing the job safely. Give us some tips.
Speaker 14 (01:11:56):
Yeah, yeah, Well, you know, if you're thinking about painting
a certain section of your house, you know, you think,
how am I going to do this? It's going to
get in the way. What could happen to me if
I fall all off and all that sort of stuff.
You know, don't work at home on your own. Make
sure there's somebody homekeeping an eye on you. Especially if
you're going to work around where the power into the building,
(01:12:17):
you'll have to have that isolated, yes, or even disconnected.
You can contact your power company and they can do
that for you. So you don't want to go up
and smoke on your holidays, So it's important that you
consider that, you know, it's quite dangerous. You've also got
to check out your access equipment, you know, and make
sure that you've got a reasonable equipment to get you
(01:12:40):
to what you want to do, you know, not Granddad's
old ladder that's been sitting in the shed for one
hundred years or whatever. Ye you know, you've got to
have good safe equipment, you know, good aluminium ladders, scaffolds
or what have you, just to get you up there.
And it's a lot more fun rather than having your
knees tremble while you're up a rickety ladder or something
like that.
Speaker 8 (01:12:59):
Absolutely. Look, I'll tell a story after the news about,
you know, watching a guy tumble from a roof and
it's still in my mind. I can still hear the thud.
Right to be a graphic and no one wants to
be in that situation, So you're absolutely right. You know,
check your leads, make sure that that's safe. If you're
using power tools outside and they're corded, make sure they're
(01:13:23):
running through a proper RCD to ensure that if you
cut the cord or something like that, then you're going
to be protected. And you write old ladders, go treat
yourself to a new one this Christmas. Because I stood
on one the other day whether the aluminium had decayed
to the point or deterior to the point where the
tread gave way under my foot right, and I was
(01:13:48):
in the end. I just cut it in half and
I took it and recycled it. That's the best thing
for old ladders. Go and get yourself a ladder.
Speaker 14 (01:13:54):
A lot of people don't realize you can just whip
the old ladder down to the and they'll give you
some money for it.
Speaker 8 (01:14:00):
That's right. In the old days, it was beer money.
Now it's money for a chai late. Right, let's get
into a couple of tigs. Fence painting. Hey, I want
to paint a fence black stain or acrylic paint an
opinion on it about maybe warping or cost from Stephen
So beatimber, let's say, and you want to make it black.
Speaker 14 (01:14:23):
Well, in terms of maintenance, paintings that probably the better option.
You know, with stains, they do to tear right after
a couple of years, especially if they're in full sun. Right,
So you've got to consider whether you want to spend
you know, every couple of years out there repainting your fence.
Speaker 11 (01:14:37):
Yep.
Speaker 14 (01:14:40):
Cost wise, there's probably not much in it. But in
the long term, paintings probably the better option because you're
not out there redoing it every couple of years. So
if you're looking at labor, maybe in terms of redoing it,
painting is probably the more cost effective option. And there's
a multitude of colors that you can use, but you
(01:15:01):
know black, you know, you can buy a ten lead
bucket of lumbersider and black and put it on the
way you go perfect.
Speaker 8 (01:15:08):
So over being timber. Primer first, then top coat.
Speaker 14 (01:15:12):
Yeah, I don't know if it's if it's super important,
but if it's freshly canalized and stuff like that, yes
I would. I would prime it just to keep the
cannalizing sort of blocked out from the top coats. If
it's painted already then, and you know, in sound condition.
You know, you could just go over the top of it.
(01:15:32):
A fence after all. I mean, it's you know, you
do have to do certain sensibilities and things, but it
is a fence at the end of the day.
Speaker 8 (01:15:40):
Ye perfect right. Someone would like to stain a front
door slightly darker without having to stand it back completely.
It has a varnish on top, it's weathered, hoping for
a special prime. I think they're hoping for a shortcut,
but I'm not sure that there is one.
Speaker 14 (01:15:58):
There probably isn't.
Speaker 9 (01:15:59):
Really.
Speaker 14 (01:16:01):
We can tint up our water borne polyurethane and with
a slight amount of tin by the little bottles tint
that you can pour into it, but it's not really
meant for an exterior situation. If you wanted to change
the color, it's I don't think there's much option but
to strip it back and start again, especially if it's
(01:16:22):
deteriorated a bit. You know, you've got staining on the
probably on the door, you've got opaque polyurethane, you've got cracks,
you've got things, all sorts of things. I don't know
without looking at the person's door, but you know, it
may be more sensible to strip it off, stand it up,
stain it to the color you want, and re polyurythane,
maybe with a marine vanish.
Speaker 8 (01:16:43):
Right over the top. Brilliant. Now this is an interesting
one morning. We've had a rat infestation in our ceiling
last year, which we've now dealt with. We have had
rat urine stains on some of the ceilings. How can
we treat those areas in order to repaint successfully?
Speaker 14 (01:17:01):
From Marie hmm, Well, we do have a product of
now is called stain lock that you can you can
put on stains on ceilings or stain on paint in
general to can't block it out you know, felt pen
marks and stuff like that. It will absorb the stain,
but it won't go any further. And then you know
you could quick try over the top of that and
(01:17:22):
proceed with repainting, or you could you know, if it's
dry and not too bad and things like that, you
put the good old solvable and sure seal on it
block it out. But yes, I think sure seel or
stain lock would be the option.
Speaker 8 (01:17:38):
Okay. Now, in terms of quela, for example, like if
you've got a new piece of quila, they're asking how
long do you leave it before putting a coat on it?
M And I guess dress as general for all hardwoods.
Speaker 14 (01:17:55):
Yeah, because you've got the little the tenons and everything
running out of it as soon as it gets wet,
and people like to stop that because it can driple
over the place. And you know, especially if you've got
a deck above a patio below, you up all these
brown stains and nice neat lines everywhere.
Speaker 5 (01:18:12):
M hm.
Speaker 14 (01:18:13):
Not a great deal you can do about it. Generally,
you've got to leave timber or timber decks the weather
for about three months before you can put a stain
on them, just to let them settle, you know, allow
the timber to expand and do its business and just
generally settle in and then you can put the We
(01:18:33):
do have a cooiler decking stain that you can put
on that you know, sort of retains the color of
the coiler, you know, sort of an orange sort of
red color. But yeah, I would, you know, there's not
a great deal you can do about it. I would
just leave it to weather, and leave it.
Speaker 8 (01:18:48):
To weather first and then apply it's.
Speaker 14 (01:18:51):
An issue of it dripping on areas below. Then you know,
just the if it's just going straight onto the ground.
It shouldn't be a problem. But then just after three months,
just you know, give it a code of coiler decking stain.
It's put the instructions and.
Speaker 17 (01:19:05):
Away you go.
Speaker 8 (01:19:06):
Now here's a classic. Recently, been painting skirting boards with
an acrylic the painter has touched up the lino as well.
Is there an easy way to get in this case
acrylic off the lino floor.
Speaker 14 (01:19:21):
Me misilated spirits will will will soften, and acrylics and
things like that. Failing that, we do have a proprietary
paint remover latex paint remover as the Americans call it,
that will remove acrylic paint off surfaces. So if you
(01:19:43):
nip into one of our shops and you can. It
comes in a spray bottle, and you know that should
do the trick. You know, you just spread it on,
leave it for a bit and then wipe it off.
Speaker 8 (01:19:54):
I'm writing that down because the number of times I've
had calls from people going, you know, the paint has
been or I've been painting and I've got, you know,
splashes of acrylic paint on aluminium jewelery, for example, how
do I get it off? So this latex paint. It
might be the solution there.
Speaker 14 (01:20:08):
Yeah, but you know, if something's been sitting on the
aluminum joinal for quite some time, you know it's probably
not going to do the trick, right might you might
have to look at some form of solvent like go
our number twelve center or something which is a good
general cleaner.
Speaker 8 (01:20:24):
Sounds good, Bryce, We're right on top of the news. Fantastic,
Thank you you're a News Talks there'd be welcome back
to the show. Bryce mcdommott, our painting expert just before
the news and really appreciate his insights as always. I'm
just trying to think whether that might be the last
show with Bryce this year, because suddenly all of those
deadlines are looming, aren't they. You know, December the first today?
(01:20:49):
How many couple more shows? As it happens, I'll carry
on doing Sundays through the Christmas and New Year break.
Looking forward to that. Actually, I'll be working here on
Christmas Day. I'm going to be doing i think eleven
to one on Christmas Day, so looking forward to that
as well a couple of other quick painting ones. Just
before we move back into the building, Can I paint
(01:21:11):
the inside of a color steel fence straight away. Yep,
pretty much wash it down, apply an adhesion primer. So
there's a very specific razine primer for that that you
need to use.
Speaker 10 (01:21:21):
Um.
Speaker 8 (01:21:23):
And what's the other one that came Ah, remove roof
paint spray that has drifted onto plastic outdoor chairs. I'm
wondering whether that latex paint remover which comes in a
little spray bottle might be the go there. It'll soften
it up and then allow you to scrape it off,
depending on how much there is. I have to say
(01:21:46):
spray drift from roof painting is a little bit uncommon. Yeah,
that would have been annoying. I would have imagined eight
hundred and eighty eighty is that number to call?
Speaker 5 (01:21:59):
Oh?
Speaker 8 (01:21:59):
Another quick couple of texts that came through. I live
in christ Church. Can I replace my toilet with a
composting toilet? I wonder whether the local council might have
some issues around that in terms of if you were
in an urban area, I think you would have to
prove compliance. You'd have to prove that it's not going
(01:22:21):
to inadvertently become a nuisance to your neighbors. In the
same way that something that's sort of come up. I
know Auckland Council, but probably other councils as well have
started to introduce sort of a maintenance schedule for septic
tanks as well within the Auckland city boundaries, which is
(01:22:45):
reasonably large. So people are having to get an independent
assessment and maintenance done of their septic systems. And I
would imagine the same thing would would apply here if
you were doing a composting toilet. Great idea, but it's
going to be a christ Church City Council question. Another
(01:23:07):
quick text that came through love the show Thank You
very Much. I want to repair my old letterbox. The
wood is old and cracked. Would putty be enough to
make small repairs to the cracks? The issue sometimes with
putty is if you use too much of it'll just
fall out. So for larger cracks, I tend to use
specific products like repair Care, which is a two part
(01:23:28):
adhesive and filler so it'll stick to the area, but
also you can use it to build up areas. There's
a couple of similar products out there. The one that
I happen to use is repair Care. In fact, I've
got a job for that shortly where power has been undergrounded,
and so I've got you know, where the large screw
goes into the facier board of an older house, the
(01:23:49):
big hook that they hang the power on, and then
the junction box with the terminal box that hangs next
to it, and then of course there's the chorus connection
that used to go under overhead has now come an underground.
So I've got to get up there safely. As per
the discussion with Bryce just for the news around working
at heights at home. So I've actually got a small
(01:24:10):
mobile scaffold. I'll take that to the job. Get up there,
unscrew these fittings now that they've been deleted, they're no
longer live. And then you know, I've got like a
ten twelve millimeter hole where the screw fitting when in
for the overhead power line. I'll back that out. Hopefully
i can get that out in one piece, and then
I'll use something like repair Care there to fill that hole.
(01:24:33):
You can also fetch in a new piece of timber,
but the repair Care should do that job all in
One oh eight one hundred and eighty ten eighty is
the number to call, and Dave a very good morning
to you. How are you this morning, Dave. Hello, Dave,
why is that not happening for me? There we go, Dave, greetings, greeting. Sorry,
(01:24:56):
technical issues on my side.
Speaker 10 (01:24:58):
That's all right. I'll just tear a hole of the
windows replaced with double glazing. Yes, and now that's where
they come and then cut them on the inside and
pushed them out and slide.
Speaker 8 (01:25:08):
The new ones and into timber joinery.
Speaker 10 (01:25:12):
Well, on my brick tile aluminium house, it's between the brickworks.
Speaker 8 (01:25:18):
Yes, but there must be a frame that the double glazing.
Speaker 10 (01:25:23):
Yeah, the frame was built into the window, and I
think they just slide the new one into place.
Speaker 8 (01:25:30):
And the frame is timber or aluminium.
Speaker 10 (01:25:34):
Timber?
Speaker 8 (01:25:35):
Okay, like it was.
Speaker 10 (01:25:38):
I guess. My question is on the outside they put
a ceiling along the top, but between the brick and
aluminium down the sides there is a like a little
gap where you can see the cavity behind it. Should
there be ceiling? The old ones didn't look like they
had it. I don't know.
Speaker 5 (01:26:01):
No.
Speaker 8 (01:26:02):
Typically, because the way that you know brick cavities work
or brickwork is typically done is you've got your timber framing,
then you have building wrap. Then you'll have a cavity
forty millimeters, and then you'll have your brickwork, and you
tend to put the windows in first. This is from
new right. You put the windows in first, you flash
(01:26:23):
behind the windows onto the timber framing, and then you
bring your bricks up to it. And typically we don't
seal a vertical seal a bead of sealant between the
aluminium joinery or the joinery and the brickwork, because the
small amount of moisture that might get through there enters
the cavity and drains out through there. So no, there's
(01:26:46):
no requirement there to fill that.
Speaker 10 (01:26:48):
Gap up helpsolute of breathe. I guess two.
Speaker 8 (01:26:51):
The wall inside, Yeah, that's certainly part of it. In
the same way that you know, at the bottom of
the brickwork, you'll find that there is some joints raked
out that allows air to enter. And then typically at
the top the brickwork stops either a little bit shy
of the feet lining or the whatever cladding there is
above to allow air to enter at the bottom and
(01:27:11):
vent at the top. That's really important.
Speaker 11 (01:27:14):
Yeah.
Speaker 10 (01:27:14):
Okay, so because my neighbor, I followed my neighbor, she
had it done as well, right, now she said, some
other work just recently done, and they've talked to her
into ceiling the whole window, and they've gone around ceiling
all the windows, all full sides.
Speaker 8 (01:27:30):
So again depending on you know, like if, for example,
if it was double brick without a cavity, or if
it was solid masonry you know that it and the
window was inserted into the solid masonry, then I'd probably
apply a seilant. But if it's conventional timber framing, building
wrap cavity and then brickwork, I wouldn't be too concerned
as long as Now this is where it gets tricky
(01:27:53):
because if you're retrofitting right, so you're you're not taking
the brickwork away, but you're changing the joinery. Basically, once
you put the joinery in place, you can't flash behind it, right,
So if you can't flash behind it, then you try
and stop water entering the cavity by sealing the front.
(01:28:16):
But if in your instance, they haven't changed the frame,
They've just taken the glazing out, deepened the rebates and
inserted the double glazing.
Speaker 5 (01:28:25):
Then.
Speaker 10 (01:28:27):
The tumbeln cut cut round the window.
Speaker 8 (01:28:31):
But have they actually taken the window frame that the
double glaze that sits out.
Speaker 10 (01:28:37):
Yes, and then pushed the new one which has already
bumped into the aluminium winder.
Speaker 8 (01:28:45):
Think, yeah, see in that instance there, because you know,
practically speaking, you can't once it goes in, you can't
deal with the flashings behind it. And you know, in
some situations when the joinery goes in, the flashing behind
it is just some DPC right, some dampproof course that
(01:29:06):
is stapled in and tucked in behind there, and that's
enough to prevent water getting into the gap between your
timber framing and your jowinery. You can do that from
you but you can't do that as retrofit. So maybe
if it is a retrofit in this instance, ceiling around
the outside would be required. Look, simple thing is to
go back to the contractor and go is there you know,
(01:29:27):
what's your methodology? Have you followed the process that you've
established that you know is going to work, And if
that requires selent, then they need to come back and
do selant. All right, I hope that helps enjoy the
double glazing. It'll make a big difference. Really, Okay, that's good,
(01:29:49):
all right, all the rest if you take care, I mean,
that's one of the benefits of double glazing, isn't it?
You know you had some single glazing, then you've got
double glazing. You know the benefit the day after because
it's going to be warmer. Oh, weight one hundred and
eighty ten eighty is the number two. All pete spelt
(01:30:13):
the old way like my dad's name. My daughter has
inherited a nineteen sixties house with asbestos in some of
the ceilings. Are there other options than removing it? The
kitchen one is badly stained from cooking, and the lounge
is looking very sooty from Connie encapsulating. It is okay
(01:30:34):
in the sense that with some decent advice. In fact,
I think Asbestos Awareness Week was last week and there's
a whole lot of new guidance. It's quite digestible, it's
quite readable. You'll find it on the work Safe website.
So there's new guidance for homeowners around sort of dealing
with asbestos in your house. So in this instance here,
(01:30:56):
I mean, you know, option one would be pull the
ceilings down, remove the material and replace the ceilings. If
the other option is to encapture, so essentially to put
a new layer of plasterboard underneath the existing ceilings, you
got to be a little bit careful about that and
then stop and paint that. So those, broadly speaking, are
(01:31:19):
your options, but neither of them is a cheap option.
Your new stalk CEP. We will take your texts for
ROOT as well, but of course we'll take your calls
for RUT from eight thirty. Still got time for a
couple more building questions if you'd like to call us now.
The number is eight hundred eighty ten eighty Right now.
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and c's apply used dog ZB your new STALKSB. We've
(01:32:45):
got rid on standby if you've got some gardening questions.
But right now we're still talking building. Oh eight hundred
and eighty ten eighty is the number to call for
your building questions, Peter, A very good morning to you.
Speaker 11 (01:32:57):
Good morning, Peter Lock. I'm looking to project manage my
house and it comes back to the LPP. Now, the
individual trades, they will sign off their own work, is
that correct? Yes?
Speaker 8 (01:33:14):
Right?
Speaker 11 (01:33:15):
And the bill and the builder hey will go.
Speaker 17 (01:33:19):
His part.
Speaker 11 (01:33:20):
But when do I need an lp B to oversee
all of the work.
Speaker 8 (01:33:28):
It's a very good question. No don't, No, you don't
so in terms of so restricting building work in most
cases needs to be done or supervised by a licensed
building practitioner. So what's the scale of your projects? Peter?
Speaker 11 (01:33:50):
So, we too be droom greennie flattyp.
Speaker 8 (01:33:53):
With building consent. Yes, okay, all right, So the restricted
trades that will be involved will be foundations, framing, cladding, roofing, waterproofing,
those sorts of things. Right, So each of those contractors
you could manage them, and each of them will provide
(01:34:15):
you with either a producer statement or a record of
works or a memorandum of work that you can then
provide to counsel when you apply for your Code Compliance Certificate.
You'r CCC at the end of the job. Yes, right,
you go ahead.
Speaker 11 (01:34:35):
What I was saying is that, yeah, I thought that
would be the case, but when it comes to the
final the builder, hey, will give me his certificate and
then all I have to do is take them all
to the council to correct. Yeah.
Speaker 8 (01:34:56):
So what the builder should do, your licensed building practitioner
is they will issue you with a record of works
for all of the restricted building work that they do.
So their record of works will if they've done the foundations,
they'll include the foundations, they'll include the framing. So you know,
I've done the framing in accordance with the building Code.
(01:35:18):
I've done the cavity system if required, I've done the cladding,
I've installed the joinery, I've done you know the roof framing.
I've done the internal bracing. So you know, if you've
got a jib bracing system and it's a b LH
one to one point two meters, they'll say, yep, I've
installed that correctly. That's the restricted building work and all
(01:35:40):
of that should be covered off on their record of works.
Speaker 6 (01:35:43):
Thank you very much.
Speaker 8 (01:35:45):
All right, good luck with the project. Thank you all
the very best to you. Bother then, and a quick
one from you, Bruce, how are you?
Speaker 6 (01:35:52):
Yeah? Yeah, good good Figus. Hey, my questions this. I've
got three houses of just relocated a new site and
Evian's going well. That's the power which was put down
the driveway, all went well, and then the electrical inspector
came out through that last week and said, no, there's
moisture in the power cable. What the remedy for that?
Speaker 8 (01:36:16):
Look to be fair, you know, you need to get
specific advice on that. When they say moisture, is there
moisture in the cable or in the deducting for the
cable in the contract?
Speaker 6 (01:36:29):
He just indicated that that the power's coming from the streets.
But then there's no power at the top of the
driveway and there's no power at the bottom of the
driveway to get this sixty meter driveway, and he said
that the cable's broken or there's moisture that's stopping the
movement of power. Okay, but I've got I've got to
(01:36:49):
meet I've got my ectrician coming to myrow morning.
Speaker 8 (01:36:52):
I was going to say, ultimately, it's going to be
a discussion with the contractor who installed it, you know,
and if they've done it in such a way that
you know, I know, it seems really scary, and I
still get scared about this, but apparently it's completely legitimate.
Is you know, certain types of power cable for Maine
supply are just laid in the trench, right, They're not
(01:37:13):
protected by condurit And I always kind of look at
that and go, jeepers. I think I'd prefer to have
mine in the conduit. And then, you know, if contractors
have not paid attention while they're backfilling and they've used
the wrong material, then yeah, inadvertently they may well have
damaged that MAINZ cable, which would be a real big issue,
(01:37:34):
especially in terms of identifying where the damage might be,
you know what I mean, and digging up and redoing
sixty meters of cable, because sixty meters of cable, you'll
know that's not cheap.
Speaker 6 (01:37:47):
No, it's right, it's three house.
Speaker 8 (01:37:49):
It become I wateringly expensive, isn't it? That cable? Yeah? Look,
I think it's all going to come back on your contractor,
because it's simple. You've asked them to do a job,
run power from the road to the house, and then
they've done it and it's been backfilled. Now they might say, look,
I didn't do the back it's not my problem. But
(01:38:09):
you can argue that later on. Did you do the
trenching yourself or did the contractors do the trenching?
Speaker 6 (01:38:15):
Another contract? Yeah?
Speaker 8 (01:38:17):
Okay, okay, let us know how you get on. I'd
be fascinated to know what the discussion tomorrow, how that
got resolved.
Speaker 6 (01:38:26):
Yeah, I will all right, Okay, Pete appreciate that.
Speaker 8 (01:38:28):
Bruce, good luck with it. Take care Criche To be fair,
it's not one that I'm particularly familiar with, righty. Oh,
If you would like to talk to rut and I'm
sure you would because some of you have already started
to call, the lines are open. The number to call
is eight hundred and eighty ten eighty back in a moment.
Speaker 1 (01:38:48):
For more from the Resident Builder with Peter Wolfcamp, Listen
live to News Talk sai'd be on Sunday mornings from six,
or follow the podcast on iHeartRadio
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