Episode Transcript
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The stories of our past found amid hallowed ground mean the most when you visit yourself
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and walk in the footsteps of soldiers.
They can mean even more when you have an expert to guide you.
This is the largest battle in American history up to that moment.
This is hallowed ground for us.
The mission to preserve this is very important.
That's Park Ranger Liz Hokanson, who's leading us through Manassas National Battlefield Park,
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located just outside of Washington, DC.
There are also places where people can go and just enjoy some open space.
And so I look at Manassas that way.
And David Duncan from the American Battlefield Trust, an organization whose mission is to
preserve spaces like these. They're taking us on location to this National Park site.
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We're two Civil War battles in 1861 and 1862 took place, including the first major land battle
of the Civil War. On this episode of Travels with Darley in Prince William County in Northern Virginia,
we'll learn how to best visit this National Park and why it's important.
The cannons and memorials to the battles fought here are all around us.
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And what today is a quiet, peaceful landscape at Manassas National Battlefield Park.
It's mid-June in Virginia and a slight breeze is blowing through the tall, muted color grasses
lining the trails where Ranger Hokanson and I are strolling towards a large bronze monument of Thomas
Jonathan Jackson, otherwise known as Stonewall Jackson, a name he would earn from the first battle of
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Manassas. On July 21st, 1861, federal forces started to make their way into this area with the idea
that they would fight the Confederates near a train station in this area, Manassas Junction.
Dye trains, of course, are important for transport and supply. They're important for communication, too,
because there are telegraph lines that often run along train lines. And so for the Confederates,
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setting up at that junction was a big deal because it gave them a base from which to operate.
And it gave them a place to set up a first line of defense if the federal army were to leave Washington
and try to work their way through Virginia down to Richmond, the Confederate Capitol.
It gave them the opportunity to set up a first line of defense for that Capitol.
I've just visited the Henry Hill Visitor Center, located on Sudley Road by the South
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entrance to the park. We're artifacts like shell fragments and the uniforms of soldiers are
displayed, as well signs contextualizing the devastating losses of not only these battles, but the entire
civil war. A short film lends an introduction, but walking outside onto the land with a ranger as
your guide truly brings the history to life. This field would have been full of gunfire, cannon
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fires, smoke, dust. This battle is significant because we consider it to be the first major land
battle of the war. And of course, when everybody gets out here, they have this very unrealistic
expectation that when war comes, it's going to be quick. One or two battles and this is all going
to be settled. Of course, we know that's not true today. This was one of the first battles and people
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weren't really that well trained. This battle, there's going to be a lot of fun bowls. If you go by
our museum, there are 200 quote unquote uniforms represented out here because individual militia
companies might have had their own uniform. There are people wearing blue and gray on both sides,
not just one or the other. The flags of both countries still look pretty similar. So if you're looking
for that as a guide on the field in the chaos of everything, it's going to be very hard. Sounds
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altogether chaotic, horrible. This is the largest battle in American history up to that moment.
We tend to think about how high the casualties are in Civil War battles, but we don't think about
the effect of it. And here, there's about 4,500 casualties, but this is probably the worst thing
many of these people have ever seen. And that really does have an impact. And as everybody walks away
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from this fight, it's clear they have to go back to the drawing board and make some changes and fix
some things like the uniforms, like the flags and things like that. We're Ranger Hokinson and I are
walking is peaceful. People are out exercising with their kids and their partners and their dogs
in beautiful fields, which during the Battle of Bull Run would have been pandemonium. I look out and I see
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these cannons. I see artillery out here. How did artillery play a role in this particular battle?
In the case of here on Henry Hill, in the afternoon following that morning fight in that big victory,
General McDowell had an issued orders for two hours until he orders a couple of batteries of
artillery to make their way up here to Henry Hill. And these battery commanders are alone here. There's
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no infantry with them. And where they're ordered to kind of position themselves right behind me here,
they're going to end up being way too close to the Confederate artillery. The Confederate artillery
is largely smooth-bore. It has a much shorter range. Many of the Union guns can fire a mile, mile and a half
and hit a target. And Captain Griff and one of those two commanders will go to his commanding officer
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and kind of raise these issues. That commanding officer will try to send additional men out here.
But it's really just not going to work. Captain Griff and Will try to get a couple of cannons up here.
He's actually going to move his two 12-pound howitzer's to the corner of the field. With the idea,
he's going to enfilad the Confederate artillery and hit it from its open exposed side.
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Almost as if you're throwing a bowling ball down a lane. It's a bowling pin to try to set him up
and knock him down. And he does get a couple of shots off, but that's then where these confusions
with flags, with uniforms start to play a role. And by the end of the day, out of the 11 cannons that
had been ordered up here that the Union had sent up here, eight of them would have been captured
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by the Confederates. Ranger Hokanson and I take a break. I want to soak in the scene on my own.
When I visit sites like this, I do like to read everything that's on hand. All the signage,
memorial placards, even the grave markers. One of the interpretive signs shares information
about the Marines who fought in the first battle of Manassas during the fight for Henry Hill.
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They were praised by both Confederate and Union troops. And let us not forget that where we're
walking on Henry Hill was once Spring Hill Farm owned by the Henry family.
Often the corner there, you can see the Henry House. That is a house from the post-war years here.
I was built in 1870, I added on to in the 1880s. At the time of the battle, though,
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there was another house on that site. And it was the home of Mrs. Judith Carter Henry, who was an
84-year-old widow, who lived in the house with her daughter, Ellen, who was unmarried in
in her 50s, and a 14-year-old enslaved girl, Lucy Griffith. At the time of the battle, Mrs. Henry
had not wanted to leave her home. And she ended up caught right in the thick of things. At some point,
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there were Confederates using her home for cover and Captain Ricketts, whose cannons are right behind
me here turned two of his guns on the house, not knowing anyone was inside and he fired.
Mrs. Henry, unfortunately, was killed as a result of her injuries. However,
Lucy and Ellen both survived. They were wounded. We don't know a whole lot about what happened
to Lucy necessarily, but we do know that Ellen lived in two or eighties, and she's buried right out
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in front of that house with her mother today, along with her brother Hugh, who's the man who built
that house. So, right next to it is what we call the Patriots Monument. And this was one of the
first monuments ever on a Civil War battlefield after the war is over. It was built by union soldiers
with the idea that it was a sanitat. It was a place to come and remember those who gave their lives,
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who may never have been recovered, who may never have been buried in a proper grave.
And it is a tribute to them, an alasding tribute to them out here on this hill.
Something that people don't always think about with national park sites and historic places like
this is that the history, it's not static. Even today, we're still learning new things about the past.
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And sometimes that new information comes from archaeology. Have there been archaeological digs done
here? It's about nine years ago, they were out doing some routine archaeological work in the park
when some bone fragments were found. And after sending them off to the Smithsonian, the Smithsonian
determined they were limbs that had been amputated. A year later, they went back for five days. And not only
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did they find additional limbs, but they found two bodies mixed in or co-mingled with those limbs.
After doing a lot of forensic testing, they determined that all of the bones that were found
were likely people in the Union Army, the radioactive isotope testing that was done suggested.
These were people that were living in upstate New York or New England.
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And in the case of the bodies, there was enough circumstantial evidence to really conclusively say these
are Union soldiers. And about five years ago, they were buried in Arlington National Cemetery.
There is an addition to that at Arlington, there is the tomb of the Civil War unknowns,
which has a lot of the dead from the Union at Second Manassas. There's a couple of thousand
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that are buried there and what was at one time Robert E. Lee's Rose Garden.
Another sign hits close to my new home of New York City, recognizing Colonel Cameron of the 79th
New York regiment who died during the Battle of Bull Run. This is how it ground for us.
The mission to preserve this is very important. The fact that the land is so well preserved
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in this is a national park, I see people coming out to utilize Manassas National Battlefield in a
lot of different ways. They get to enjoy this space, contemplate history and life and nature and
step away from the city that's all around us. We're kind of in Oasis in the middle of northern Virginia sprawl.
For a lot of people, this is a nice quiet place to come and reflect and think and just get out and
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enjoy nature and commune with nature. Manassas National Battlefield Park dates back to 1940
and being so close to Washington, D.C. in a mid-an area where so many people live, work and play,
it's a rare oasis in this part of Virginia. While many people come here to learn about history,
others come to enjoy nature and open spaces. It's that mix of education and inspiration that spurs
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organizations like the American Battlefield Trust to work to preserve spaces like Manassas National
Battlefield Park. The mission of the American Battlefield Trust is to save America's endangered or
threatened hallowed battlefield ground from the Revolutionary War up through the American Civil War
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and then to educate people on what happened at these places and why it still matters today.
David Duncan, the president of the organization, has himself helped secure a lot of land.
To date, we have saved, we're coming right up on 60,000 acres of battlefield land that,
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but for this organization and its very generous members, would have been developed, destroyed and
denied to future generations. Believe, we just passed our 160th Battlefield in 25 states.
So we cover a wide swath of the country. We think there's a lot of value also in preserving these
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battlefields, not just outdoor classrooms in places where you can go study the history. Absolutely.
But there are also places where people can go and just enjoy some open space. You know, think about
the value of Central Park to downtown Manhattan. It's almost incalculable and so I look at Manassas that way.
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The American Battlefield Trust's efforts to safeguard Virginia's historic battlefields date back to
the organization's inception nearly four decades ago and they continue their work with Manassas today.
Back at the National Park site with Ranger Liz Hockinson, I look out on the nature and history
and I'm so glad this site is preserved. Tell me the land here because I see this
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undulating landscape, how did that play a role in the battle? The landscape out here today is a lot
more forested than it would have been at the time. So as you look out here, you're going to
inevitably see a lot more trees. As these men fought out here, one of the things that I sometimes point
out to visitors is that they're not always going to set up on the high ground out here. We're used to
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thinking of the idea that you're going to set up on the high ground. That's the most advantageous place
to be. But in the case of Stonewall Jackson who would have arrived right behind you on the field,
he's going to be on the reverse slope of the hill when he gets here. Nathan Evans, another confederate
officer is going to be on Buck Hill, which is off this way in the morning fight, which is the lower
shoulder of Matthews Hill where the Union Army will come out. This terrain really is very rolling
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and as these men fight, sometimes that rolling terrain provides them with a little bit of temporary
cover sometimes in the case of the morning fight when the confederates are retreating back here,
they're going to use that undulating terrain to get that cover from any kind of union fire that
might be directed at them. I look over to Bull Run Monument, formally dedicated on June 11, 1865.
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It is one of the oldest extant monuments remaining on any civil war battlefield today.
Some of the more interesting things that you can see out here on Henry Hill include some of the
monuments. We have a trio of monuments right here in this corner of the field that are all confederate
monuments. Of course, the Stonewall Jackson monument, which is considered to be a very iconic one,
it's tied directly to the history of this battlefield when we were established in 1940 as
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Manassas National Battlefield Park. There's a monument to General B who said the famous words,
"There stands Jackson like a stone wall." There are more places to explore than Ranger,
Hokinson, and I even made it to on this outing, which only means I'll need to adventure back to Manassas.
We're like so many historic places I visit. The experience is so much richer on location than
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reading about it or even listening to it, with this podcast from afar. I think for people who are
either passionate about our country's history or even people who are just learning,
beginning the process of learning our country's history, to go there and experience these places,
there's just no substitute for that. Whether it's Charleston, South Carolina, Manassas,
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Princeton, New Jersey, they all tell incredible stories. And stay tuned for our next
battlefield themed podcast, taking you to Camden Battlefield in South Carolina,
to sites in the city of Charleston, related to Liberty Trail, and to Princeton Battlefield State Park
in New Jersey. And if you have an interest in learning more about these sites,
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look for the travels with Darley TV and Streaming series, because we not only recorded this for our
podcast on location, but we also filmed this for our series too. And check out battlefields.org
to get resources from the American Battlefield Trust, and learn how you can play a role in preserving
and protecting America's battlefields. Thanks for listening.