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January 3, 2024 15 mins
Discover Québec City as you journey from the luxurious Chateau Frontenac to Augustinian monastery-turned-hotel with healing vibes in Old Québec. This episode includes a walking tour of one of the world’s most photographed hotels and Old Québec during the New France Festival with Darley Newman and Simon Pelletier of Cicérone Tours. Darley then takes you to Wendake to learn about First Nations culture and cuisine with a Michelin-star chef. Visit magnificent waterfalls higher than Niagara Falls just outside of the city at Montmorency Falls Park, all while savoring authentic indigenous cuisine and agritourism spots on Île d’Orléans, where cider tasting and soft serve ice cream combine at Cidrerie Verger Bilodeau and Cassis Monna & Filles.
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Episode Transcript

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(00:00):
When you think about Quebec City, charming architecture, old stone streets,

(00:04):
and French flair and flavors may come to mind. But what about waterfalls, First Nations culture,
apple picking, and a monastery where you can stay the night? We're visiting Quebec City with locals
as our guides in this episode of The Travels with Darley Podcast,
walking Quebec City's streets for the New France Festival, and heading into the famous

(00:25):
Chateau Frontenac, one of the world's most iconic places to stay, and chock full of opulence and history.
Quebec City is a charming city to explore on foot, and if you're going to enlist a local guide to
show you around, why not one who offers an immersive experience? Local guide Simon Pelletier

(00:51):
of Cicerone Tours takes his historic walking tours quite seriously. He even dresses up in period
attire to help take guests back in time. I meet him in the lavish main lobby of the Chateau-esque
Chateau Frontenac to start our tour. See today, I'm dressed as Bruce Price the architect of the famous

(01:13):
Chateau Frontenac. That's the hotel that became the masterpiece of his career. Bruce Price was hired
back in the 1880s to design for the CP Railway Company, a few hotels that would look like castles.
They needed some place to accommodate their wealthiest clients. Those we wanted to see the country
as they were traveling from one hand to the other, and this part of the Chateau where we stand

(01:35):
right now, we call it, today the Maxwell Tower, was added to the complex in the 1920s,
and most of the decorations around here are still from the 20s. Look at the woodworks. Look at the
frames all around the place. These chandeliers also aptly case on the wall made out of brass
are the original. Coming to the Chateau Frontenac is a little like traveling in time.

(01:57):
The hotel can only be described as grand, opulent, decadent, and Simon fits right into the mix
in his brown tweed trousers, shiny caramel-covered vest, black top hat, and cane.
That's right for these people back then, but still today in the Chateau Frontenac,
some kind of the symbol of Quebec City all around the world. It's thought to be the most photograph

(02:20):
hotel in the world, so something to come in here. Let's check out these restaurants. Have a look.
So here we are standing in The Champlain restaurant. This is the main restaurant
of Le Chateau Frontenac. It's been named after Samuel De Champlain, the founder of Quebec City,
and you can also see him up on that statue right outside. So today you can book for a table

(02:43):
at the Champlain having a look at him while you get your meal. This is the Chateau Frontenac
was built on ruins of the old house of French governors. That's one of the reasons why the Chateau
Frontenac was built here. The CP wanted to get an attachment with local history. If you pay attention
to all the little symbols in the Champlain restaurant, they are some of them trying to bring your back

(03:05):
to these old castles. What Bruce Price has seen before coming back here, because his inspiration from
these old French castles, so we ended up with a European castle built in an American way here in 1893.
If I thought I was heading out of here for my walking tour in my regular clothes, Simon has other ideas.

(03:26):
I'd like you to dress as Madame Anne de La Grange-Trianon, also known as the Divine, she was the wife of Frontenac
So this is for the New France Festival, you'll blend in the festival if you
dress something like that. Okay, they're blend in or a lot of people will be taking photographs of us,

(03:47):
but either way, I'm game for it. Since I'm here for the New France Festival, a multi-day summer festival
featuring live music, cuisine, reenactors, and other experiences to dive into the 17th and 18th
centuries in North America, I might as well dive right in too. I put on a blue and gold gown, complete
with a petticoat and white lace cap. Simon, we're killing it in these outfits today. Of course we are,

(04:12):
look at us. We head outside of Chateau Frontenac, garnering a few looks on our way to walk the promenade.
During a few days every year, we've got that New France Festival going on. We go back in time,
we go back in New France in La Nouvelle France, when Quebec was still part of the French empire.

(04:34):
We're walking along the wide wooden boardwalk with Chateau Frontenac to our back. The St. Lawrence
River below is dotted with sailboats and ships and its verdant green banks. Cannons on our right
remind us of Quebec City's military past. Quebec City is the only fortified city north of Mexico,

(04:56):
and you can still view part of this city's defensive system, including gates, towers and the Citadelle,
as you explore here. As you can see here, we're walking through the Prescott Gate.
That's one of the access to get in and out of the fortifications. So we're now getting
out of the walled part of Quebec City, walking down the mountain hill to get to the Petit Champlain

(05:18):
District. The Petit Champlain Street won an award a few years ago as the most beautiful commercial
street in Canada. So let's you judge by yourself to go down and we'll have to use that set of
stairs right here. L'Escalier Casse-Cou, which means in English the break neck steps. So bad
reputation, be careful when you go down. 59 steep stairs move us from the Upper Town to

(05:40):
the Lower Town and onto one of the most quaint streets in North America. This was meant to be a
shortcut between the lower part of town and the upper part of town. I bet in the winter these are like a
real challenge. So here we are now in Le Petit Champlain District. This is probably the most exotic part of
Quebec City, the part that looks the most like New France. So if you look at the architecture,

(06:04):
you'll feel again like you are somewhere else. All these nice little shops, little restaurants,
coffee shops too. Oh it's beautiful and walking along the cobblestone streets, I can tell a lot of
people are visiting this area. If you were looking for that European touch in Canada,
here you can find it. That's why people say when they come to Quebec City that they feel like

(06:25):
they're taking a trip to Europe. Quebec is sitting at a point in between the French culture,
the British culture, the Canadian one, all mixed together to shape what we've got today in
Quebec City. Something unique, very European and American at the same time. You're from Quebec City.
Do you feel that you're just Quebecois, French, Canadian, a mix of it all? How do you feel?

(06:50):
I feel all of this together. I mean, I am Quebecois first. I am French-Canadian but I'm
aware of all that background I talked about. I'm a little Canadian. I'm a little British with the way
we eat, the way we talk, the way we live our life, our culture has been influenced by this past

(07:12):
history. That's what shaped us. That's what shaped Quebec the way it is today over the last 400
years and more. Long before the Europeans arrived, Quebec's indigenous peoples had thriving communities.
I'm traveling just 15 minutes from Quebec City to learn about one of these first nations communities
in Wendake, where a hotel, restaurant, museum and cultural experiences share the stories of

(07:38):
the Wendat people. Wendake is the community, the village where the Huron-Wendat people live.
Danisse Neashit sits down with me in the restaurant, which features First Nations art and a modern
yet cozy ski lodge design. White tablecloth line nicely spaced tables. I look behind me to see
stacked firewood and a taxidermy bird about to take flight. In the province of Quebec, there is 11

(08:04):
different nations, 55 communities like Wendake . We like to say that is a cuisine inspired by
First Nations terroir. For us, what it means is that it's a local project that really comes from the
earth. You have First Nations in Quebec everywhere, so we have plenty of choices to make great food.

(08:26):
The menu that we are featuring is, like, creation by the chef Marc de Passorio. In his life,
he has received two Michelin stars. Two Michelin stars is nothing to sneeze at. His expertise is
really in the local product. So, he would ask the Huron people that work here to make sure

(08:47):
that it's still true. They're sharing their knowledge, so it's creating this authentic food.
Exactly. It's all about sharing, and it's all about keeping it simple and authentic, of course.
You will need to try also the bannock. Bannock is a traditional bread that you may find in every nation.
In fact, every family's have its own recipes of bannock. It's not sweet at all. It's a savory sort of bread,

(09:11):
which is great to go with so many things, and especially just plain old butter. A small ceramic
bowl holds a delicate mix of cucumbers, thinly sliced, like pappardelle pasta, a diced plum tomato,
white fish carpaccio, and yellow and purple flowers. And seasonal vegetables with fish. Exactly.

(09:32):
That's delicious. The fish tastes like it just was caught. That's how you get those Michelin stars.
Danisse takes me to see a replica of a longhouse, the traditional homes of the Wendat people,
prior to the arrival of the Europeans. Built of wood and bark, imagine a round bottomed ship

(09:55):
being turned upside down, and you could perhaps visualize these family dwellings.
These are large. Yeah, exactly. It's large and it's a smaller version. We find a trace of the long
as it was 100 meters long, so three times this size. If you're visiting Wendake, there are special nights
when travelers can actually stay in this longhouse. On the main floor, this is where the people

(10:19):
were sleeping mostly. You have two family every side of the fires, so family were sleeping side by side.
Must've been a nice community feel. I mean, you really just get to know your friends and neighbors.
You keep the family together, that's for sure. And for the man you need to learn to live with the
mother in law, so that's the man problem. So Wendake is a really great community, and they are

(10:44):
really, really proud of their culture.
I'm traveling just 15 minutes from downtown Quebec City to see a marvel of nature.
These are massive. Higher than the Niagara Falls? Yes, La Chute-Montmorency, the Montmoerency Falls is
actually 30 meters higher than Niagra. Maite Paju is guiding me to one of the best spots to view

(11:11):
the falls from above. I spot stairs running up the side of a cliff face, but look like they would take
quite some time to climb. It's 487 steps. I think we should take the cable car.
At the top you can hike around, go zip lining, bring a picnic and lounge and grassy fields,

(11:31):
or dine at the restaurant on site. For the best views, cross over the suspension bridge to see
the falls from above. And if you're lucky, you might even spot a rainbow. Rainbow! Wow!
Just a few minutes away from the falls, I'm exploring agritourism on the Island of Orleans.
Sharayah Bjelde is leading me through Apple Orchards at Belado Cidery.

(11:58):
So we have 15 different varieties, and then we have 10 varieties available for people to come
pick during the fall. What makes this island so good for growing these apples that make this good
cider? The island has very rich soil, and also it's the perfect positioning for the sun to hit.
I head inside to try not just Apple cider, but Apple Butter with the farm's owner.

(12:19):
Just Apple, sugar, butter, that's it. All natural, very smooth. Ooh! It's almost like a cream cheese
apple butter. It's also nice when you know it's been family-made. Another foodies find that's
women run is Cassis Monna & Filles, where sisters Catherine and Anne use blackcurrant to create all manner
of homespun products, ranging from gin to ice cream. I'm partaking in one of my favorite pastimes

(12:46):
by checking out the creamery. Wow, this looks amazing! I get soft-serve ice cream, blackcurrant
and vanilla swirl on a sugar cone, and I head up to the rooftop of the creamery.
It's a sunny summer day outside of Quebec City, and I look out to a sea of green trees,
lining hills and mountains in the distance, and the St. Lawrence River shining below.

(13:07):
You can go from the vanilla to the blackcurrant to the vanilla to the blackcurrant,
and it's a very tasty experience, especially on a beautiful day like today.
Back in Quebec City, I'm checking out a historic monastery, the welcomes travelers
not just for day visits, but also to stay the night. If you like staying in historic places,

(13:29):
you might want to add this to your list. This was a former Augustinian monastery,
also a hospital one time that now doubles as a hotel. I head into the vast monastery
to see a choir performing. Isabelle Houde takes me on a walk through the choir room before going to
see the accommodations. The Augustinians arrived here in 1639 until 1965 the Augustinians were

(13:54):
cloistered, so they weren't allowed to see the public or to be seen by them. So throughout time,
there have been women participating here. Absolutely. The Augustinians dedicated their lives to
healing bodies and soul and taking care of the sick and the poor. They were also the first business
women that we had because they had to find sources of income to be able to feed the sick and to

(14:16):
feed the community and to operate the hospital and the monastery. So they're a really wonderful
community of women. We take the elevator upstairs to see rooms where the nuns used to live. These
simple sparse, but cleanly decorated rooms, have now been converted into accommodations for travelers.
So we have two types of rooms. We have the old cells of the Augustinians where people can stay.

(14:40):
Those are really special rooms because they spend so much time praying and sending out good
energies that there's something very special about them. We do have contemporary rooms as well.
So basically people are coming here to slow down, to feel that good energy that's here. Exactly.
When they realize the importance of caring for themselves, then we feel that we've accomplished our job.

(15:00):
There's an on-site restaurant offering healthy options for mindful eating, yoga,
meditation, and other ways to get off the grid in the middle of Quebec City.
To reach Quebec City, you can take a plane, train, or automobile for major U.S. cities.
And if you're combining Quebec City with Montreal, you're only about 150 miles away.

(15:22):
Two and a half to three and a half hours drive time. And whether you stay in luxurious Chateau Frontenac,
in a longhouse in Wendake, or in rooms where Augustinian sisters once prayed,
you're in for a delightful mix of culture, cuisine, and history in Quebec City.
I'm Darley Newman and I've been traveling the world for a very long time. So subscribe to

(15:44):
this podcast if you like to travel too, or just want to learn about how cool our world can truly be.
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