Episode Transcript
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Speaker 1 (00:26):
Well, the weekends upon us. Welcome. You're at Home with
Gary Salvin. This hours brought to you by nature Stone.
Check it out. Good looking stuff. Basement floors, laundry, garage floor.
It's naturestone dot com. All right, we thank them for
sponsoring this hour of that Home with Gary Salvin. As
we take your calls regarding your home projects, it's eight
(00:50):
hundred eight two three a two five five eight hundred
eight two three eight two five five. Go ahead and
grab a line and we'll chat a little bit about
what you're working on around your home or maybe a
little maintenance, maybe what you should be working on around
your home. And as the calendar continues to click forward, hooray,
(01:14):
things start cooling off and then we get into cold,
cold weather, and I want to spend just a little
time about talking about protecting the concrete around your home.
As we chatted yesterday, one thing concrete is guaranteed to
do is crack. It's going to crack. But it's how
we respond to different things that take place in deterioration
(01:38):
of our homes. And this is a good time of
year to think about whether it's asphalt or concrete, of
getting it sealed and do you need to seal it
every year. No, no, no. In fact, we'll start with asphalt.
Asphalt business has changed a lot. We used to seal
(01:59):
that just about every year, every year or two. Now
you don't have to do that. You can still do it,
but you don't have to do that because the quality
of the different sealers that are out there now a
lot of Again we bring up the words a curylic
resins sealers. You may have heard me talk about a
product called drive Max that's got a ten year warranty
(02:23):
fast dry time. They also make a seven year, a
five year, o two year. But you got options. So
you want to patch the cracks for sure, there's liquid
crack fillers, there's a masty crack filler, and then resealing
to minimize moisture penetration with a product like a drive
(02:45):
Max and very very resistant to the UV ray. So
I think a lot of times that was my job
seeing the asphalt drive wahen I was a kid, and
I really believe that. One one of the reasons we
did it was it was kind of like just like
painting a driveway, right, We wont that nice black crisp
(03:06):
look clean. Look. I think we oversealed it, and you
don't want to do that because just like if you're
painting a wall every year, eventually that pain film be
so thick it would begin to fail. So you know,
if you use an inexpensive sailors maybe every other year,
(03:26):
but the drivemax again ten years, and that's an awesome product.
It really is. For concrete, the first thing, you know,
you got to look at I talked about concrete is
guaranteed to crack, so we want to address the issues
(03:47):
of cracked concrete. And also sometimes you'll have like divots
that are out of the concrete, like little pot marks.
We want to patch those, create cements. They don't like
to stick to each other. So you don't want to
buy a big vega concrete you could, or sand mix
(04:10):
you could, but you'd have to add water, you'd have
to add a bonding agent. Got to clean out the divots,
and you got to apply it. Cracks. You don't want
to use a cementatious material again, cracks that are three
sixteenths of an inch. Your main purpose you're not gluing
(04:34):
it together. The main purpose is you're sealing the cracks
so moisture can't get underneath that slab, create erosion, cause
it to crack more, cause it to settle, cause a
tripping hazard. You got it. The progression of a problem.
There's a product called crack seal. It's a Latex crack sealer.
(04:55):
That's what goes in small cracks. Run a beat over it.
It'll self level sealed up. Rain's not gonna get underneath it.
Will it fail Eventually it will larger gaps between driveway
and garage floor, sidewalk and stoop sidewalk in house, in
(05:19):
between the expansion joints and a concrete a little bigger project.
Usually the gap is quarter inch plus, sometimes three quarters
of it, sometimes bigger in it. I wouldn't use a
latex on that. I'd use a your thane, and your
(05:41):
thane is expensive, but it's good. More expensive than latex.
I should say it's not expensive. It's just more expensive
than latex. It's got the best adhesion rating, it's got
the best flexibility ratings. You don't want to waste it.
You clean out that. You know, we'll say a half
(06:03):
inch crack and maybe that crevice it's not a crack,
it's just the expansion joint is pulled away. It's settled
maybe that gap is four inches deep. That's how deep
the thick the slab is. And maybe there was something
(06:23):
in there as an expansion joint, or maybe there was
nothing and it just pulled away and settled and there
you want to fill that with sand up to about
three ace of so up to about three ace from
the top of the slab, so you want to have
a little crevice, but not a big crevice. Put the
(06:46):
self leveling your thing. It comes in a heavy duty
cocking tube. You're gonna need a heavy duty cocking gun,
but its self levels. It puts a bead down and
then it levels, and if it is settling, it'll continue
to settle. Usually those things don't stop, but it'll stretch
(07:09):
and eventually it'll give up. But maybe you come back
and reapply. So that we want to get the cracks
filled though, for sure, and then sealed. Especially folks listening
right now live in northern climates. It's harsh and you
(07:31):
get road salt and you get corrosiveness going on, and
that's where you get those little pop marks or uneven surfaces.
I call it driveway acne because that's what it looks like.
Just kind of the surface is just kind of breaking
up a little bit. So by sealing it, that salty
(07:56):
brain solution doesn't penetrate into the concrete as far doesn't
create as much damage. If you haven't sealed a concrete
driveway for a while, that might be something you should entertain.
And your lifespan on that's three to five years. But boy,
(08:16):
if you just got new concrete, you don't want any
salt on that for a couple of years. And sometimes
you can't help it. You drive your car down the
streets and right on there. But you can seal it
right away. Not right away, not right away, twenty eight days, okay,
twenty eight days, you can seal it. There are cure
and seal products that can be mixed into the concrete
(08:38):
when they're pouring it. You need to check that to
see if they're going to do that, because then you're
going to want to wait a year. But for the
most part, you wait a month and you can go
ahead and seal the seal the driveway three to five
years that's going to last. So those are good projects
to tackle in the next month or so two months,
(09:00):
depending where you live. And it just is a whole
bunch of maintenance and a whole bunch of protection. When
I say a whole bunch, it's not like a whole
bunch hard work. The sealers that you want. You want
a breathable sealer. It can exhaust moisture from underneath that slab.
(09:21):
Out kind of works like gortex, kind of prevents the
water from going down through that slab. So you want
it breathable. You can put it on with anything you want,
including which is the way I do it, a tank sprayer.
You put the sealer in there, you just kind of
missed it on. You don't want it to puddle, you
don't want it to be running off. You want it
(09:43):
you know how you get a light sprinkle of rain
and it just kind of darkens the concrete. That's the
application you want to do. That's exactly how much you
want to put on there. If you do put too
much on, it starts puddling or running. Get somebody out
there with you, or you can just stop for a second,
(10:04):
take a brush or a roller cover and just roll
it out. Just don't let it pawn and dry or
it'll be shiny. We want it into the surface, So
put that on your fall project list. I think that
would be money well spent and time well used. All right,
Well take a break when we come back. We got
(10:24):
Karen and Tony and Rose and if you'd like to
join us do so. You're at home with Gary.
Speaker 2 (10:29):
Sullivan weekends, I mean a never writing list of things
to do.
Speaker 1 (10:32):
Around your home.
Speaker 2 (10:33):
Get help at one eight hundred and eighty two three
talk You're at home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 1 (10:53):
Hey, Gary Salvin here. You made an investment in your furniture,
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(13:04):
it we go twenty one minutes after the top. They
are by the way. I just want to remind you
each and every hour of the show on Saturday and
Sunday is available to you via podcast. If you've enjoyed
what you hear today, maybe you want to, you know,
scalp back to yesterday and pick one of the hours.
(13:25):
You can take me on your walk. How's that? Listen
at your leisure and it's available wherever podcasts are. iHeart.
Just type in at home with Gary Slivan if you
want to go to garysalvanonline dot com. Danny does post
that link there and you can listen to the podcast
that way. But there each hour is labeled and you'll
(13:47):
see whether it's the first hour, second or third hour,
et cetera. But I did want to remind you that
that is available. All right, Karen, welcome.
Speaker 3 (13:58):
Thank you very much. Care I'm hoping you might might
be able to give me some help with my problem.
I live in a condominium association. However, each of us
in that association owns their own home and the property,
and my problem lies in the fact that my home
(14:20):
was built before each of the homes on each side
of me were built, and the homes on the east
of me, the home on the east of me was
graded so that the water runs off and it runs
toward my home, and the one on the west has
(14:42):
a little more distance between my home and that home
than the one on the east, and so degrading on
that one doesn't affect the water flow into my lower
level that the one on the east does.
Speaker 4 (15:00):
Approached the.
Speaker 3 (15:03):
Developer or the I guess one in the same the
builder and the developer about my problem, and he seems
to think that the coffee can drains, and that's what
I call them, because they're a cylinder with a bottom
in it and a pipe coming out of the down
(15:26):
spouts into that drain, and there is no way that
the water drains out of that coffee can drain. It
just fits in there. And so when we have a
heavy rainstorm, the rain water from the home to the
east of me, which is probably about twenty five feet
(15:48):
away from my home, drains down into my back. I
have a walkout, so it drains down into the area
of my walkout. And the developer has gone or the
builder one and the same has gone to the board
that the association board and has told them the story.
(16:13):
And I received an email back saying that that's my
problem and I need to have it fixed at my expense. Now,
there have been six to eight other homes in that
community who have had the same issue I have, only
they've had severe damage to the lower level and I
(16:36):
don't want to have that. I'm trying to be proactive
and take care of that water. So I don't know
to whom I need to go that could perhaps help
me with that issue to tell me how to fix
it and then say.
Speaker 1 (16:51):
Yeah, what I would do in the drain that you
were talking about, that's an exterior drain, Yes, okay.
Speaker 3 (17:02):
There are about four of them in my.
Speaker 1 (17:03):
Back yeah, yeah, yeah, Well you know, based on where
you're at with clay. I don't know how well that's
going to drain either, but I think what you really
need to do is you need to contact an excavator.
Sounds like a scary name, but what they do is
they work on projects exactly like this and they're very
(17:27):
common problems. You know, properties different highs and highs and lows,
and if you got hills, and you know, it's not
about waterproofing, it's total water control. I don't know if
your ground slopes down past your home. But when you
were telling me what you were what the problem was,
(17:49):
I was thinking, like an underground French drain would be ideal.
If it's draining into this little create a culvert. An
excavator is going to move soil. It's going to to
give an escape route for the water. It's going to
funnel water to like a little valley that they would create.
You would put a pipe under ground where the water
(18:10):
would flow to the pipe. It's got slits in it,
and then they would create, you know, a slope underground
with that pipe and exit the water away from the homes.
I'm being very elementary here. Nothing's ever that easy. But
you asked me what you should do, and I would say,
I would get a hold of an excavator. I'd tell
(18:32):
them what your problem is. I wouldn't get into what
the builders say and in the condos, I wouldn't get
in any of that yet. I would get his opinion
of what's going on, what would be needed in the
approximate cost to solve my problem, and then we'll work
on the other end of it.
Speaker 3 (18:53):
Okay, So the grating from the house to the east
of me is tips, so that are graded so that
it grows, definitely grows toward my house.
Speaker 1 (19:05):
Right right. I understand that, and I'll put you on hold.
We can talk on the other side of the break
if you feel you still have some questions. I understand
what's causing. We just got to catch that water and
we can and move it away from the house. We'll
continue at home with Gary Solivan.
Speaker 2 (19:33):
If you don't have a list of things to do
around the house, Gary will find something for you at
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with Gary.
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All right back at it. We'll go thirty three minutes
after the top of the hour, and let's go back
(22:12):
to Karen here, we're having a discussion really on creating
drainage around the home. All right, Karen, Sorry I had
to break a hard time there.
Speaker 3 (22:22):
Thank you so much. So my question to you would be,
do you would you have a recommendation of some excavating
company in Kalamazoo Township that might be able to I don't.
Speaker 1 (22:35):
I'm located down in Ohio, so I don't have a
local company that I can recommend. But you could ask around.
If you've got a NARI Association National Institute of the
Remodeling Industry, they could make a recommendations. Go on Angie's List,
look up you know excavation companies you can you can
(23:01):
find and just make sure you get one with good references.
But I don't have one. Maybe even asking not your builder,
but different builders you know, and see if they have one.
But that's I think the person that's really going to
be able to they'll even be able to test. I
don't know if when you talked about having like an
(23:23):
outdoor outdoor sump pit installed, whether there was any soil
percolation tests done and not. That'd be really important because
if the soil can't you know, exhaust that water out
of that pit. You would probably have to put a
pump in there to pump it away, which is fine,
(23:45):
but there's a little bit more to it than just
putting a well down in there.
Speaker 3 (23:50):
Sure, my house is a walk out on the bottom,
a lower level, right and the water is pooling so
close to my sliding glass door.
Speaker 1 (24:00):
I'm getting Yeah, And eventually you're doing the right thing, Karen.
Eventually it's going to become a problem. I mean, soil
land it's always kind of changing, and if it's not
going to change direction, it's just going to you know,
you get a little bit more erosion, gives it a
(24:20):
little bit more permission to get closer to the openings
of your home. It will eventually become a problem. So
you're spot on. It's a problem now you see where
it's going, and in good we got to figure out
a way how we control that away from your property
without messing up something else.
Speaker 3 (24:41):
Okay, all right, all right, Gary, thank you so much.
I listened to you religiously on Sundays, So thank you.
Speaker 1 (24:48):
All right, Karen, thank.
Speaker 3 (24:49):
You, thank you, bye bye bye bye.
Speaker 1 (24:52):
All right. Yeah, that's frustrating, but that's you know, it's
there's different laws and things too, where you can water.
I mean, it gets complicated, but a good excavator, I'm
sure he'll be able to help.
Speaker 5 (25:05):
Karen.
Speaker 1 (25:05):
All right, let's get a rose. Rose welcome.
Speaker 4 (25:10):
Hello.
Speaker 6 (25:11):
That's the throw. Yes, I wanted to check. I had
a gazebo on my patio and I used to tie
my Hawaiian plant to one of the legs of the
of the gazebo to keep it from being blown over
by the wind. And so the gazebo has since rested
(25:35):
out at the top, but I kept the leg and
I want to counter synk the some bolts into the
concrete patio and put the head down so that I
can attach the leg to the patio. It's a six
(26:01):
foot tall metal post and it well, it weighs fourteen pounds,
so it's pretty substantial. So I want to drill holes
into four holes. It has a base plate on it,
and I want to drill four holes into the concrete patio,
(26:25):
put the bolt in head down, and then what do
I fill.
Speaker 5 (26:32):
The holes with?
Speaker 1 (26:34):
Well, actually, there is a product you could do a
couple of things. There is. Quick Creek makes both of them.
One of them is in a POxy. It's in a
POxy anchoring cement, so it comes in a calking tube.
They're actually using this now with a lot of wrought
(26:58):
iron railings. Where it used to be you would draw
a big hole and you would use an anchoring cement
in there, which you can still do, or you can
use this apoxy, so it comes in a cocking tube.
It actually mixes as it's coming out of the spout rows,
(27:18):
so it's and the size of the hole will be
a little bit large because you're going to have a
head on that and you're going to put the head
down first, so you're gonna have plenty of room around
that bolt, and you literally just pump this epoxy anchoring
cement into the concrete hole. Okay, that's one. The other
(27:39):
option would be you'd have to make a hole twice
the size of the bolt that you're going to put
in there, so it'd be a bigger hole, that's for sure,
because I imagine you're going to use three ace to a
half inch threaded bolt. Yeah, and you would put that
in there, and you would get anchoring cement. It's a
(28:02):
powder that's mixed with water, and you would put that
in or in the hole. The hole will be larger
than the other hole, and that's how that's how you'd
anchor that.
Speaker 6 (28:16):
Okay, so you think the cocking.
Speaker 1 (28:21):
Tu Yeah, yeah, the word cacking doesn't do it justice.
It is literally an epoxy anchoring cement, but it mixes.
It's got a resinant, a hardener and in the tube. Yeah,
I think that's what I would use. That would be
pretty easy to use. It's very substantial and it would
definitely do the job. Now, the other thing you could
(28:44):
consider doing too, is there are anchoring anchors that it's
a bolt or a piece of threaded rod with a
nut on the top, and it has a light steel casing.
So you put that in and then you tighten up
that bolt, all right, and it expands the wings out
(29:05):
of that anchor, and that hole has already been pumped
full of that epoxy. So you push that in and
then you tighten that nut, and then you put the
plate over the nut. The nut is subsurface and the
threaded rod is sticking up. Just another way to do it.
We're kind of getting to the same thing, but you know,
(29:27):
it's got wings out, so there's gonna be a little
bit more grab power there. But I think either way
will work.
Speaker 5 (29:32):
Fine, okay.
Speaker 6 (29:35):
So, and then if I eliminate this pole, which would
be the easiest to remove, if I if I want to.
Speaker 1 (29:47):
Take the well, I think no matter what you're gonna do,
you're gonna end up taking you know, some sort of
saw and cutting the bolt off. I don't think you're
gonna pull it out.
Speaker 6 (29:59):
Okay, all right, all right, that sounds great, Thank you good.
I wanted to ask a question. A couple of weeks ago,
a lady had called in and she said that she
had some of the white plastic furniture and that she
(30:20):
got it clean and then she put Millsic on it.
And I was wondering which Millsick it was.
Speaker 1 (30:28):
The actual furniture. Millsick polish cleaner and polish the wood
the wood one, yes.
Speaker 6 (30:35):
Uh huh oh okay, and you just put it on and.
Speaker 1 (30:40):
Yeah, that's what she said. I haven't used it. I've
used it on a cast aluminum outdoor table to kind
of make it pop and it worked beautiful, but I've
never used it on the PVC furniture. Well, yeah, yeah,
it was the furniture one.
Speaker 6 (30:55):
Okay, all right, all right, thank you so much.
Speaker 1 (30:59):
You're quite welcome. Thank you, all right, well, take a
break and coming back. We got Conrad and if you'd
like to jump on board and join us, I certainly
invite you to do so. We got a few minutes
left to get your call on. It's eight hundred eight
two three eight two five five and you're at home
with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 2 (31:18):
Help for your home is just a click away at
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(34:04):
work together on taking care of some of those maintenance
and repair issues around your home. And if you'd like
to join us, do so as we work our way
through the weekend. Let's go to Conrad. Conrad, Welcome, Hi, Gary,
thank you.
Speaker 3 (34:18):
Hey.
Speaker 5 (34:18):
I have a friend who recently bought a home and
she has the gout her down spout drains. But of
course you're under the ground right, But the where it
comes out of the ground is completely clogged.
Speaker 7 (34:31):
It's covered with sod grass, okay, and I can't find it.
Speaker 5 (34:36):
I'm oputting.
Speaker 7 (34:36):
You can offer me some kind of a suggestion or
magical tip in order from you to find us.
Speaker 1 (34:41):
Well, I don't know about magical tip. I got an
idea if it's covered, and that's a good You know,
what you say is worth everybody listening to because where
the downspout drains or an underground French drain peak their
head out of the soil as the topography slopes down
(35:05):
to exit the water. Once that gets clogged, you're right,
it's probably not doing its job either of dispersing that
water as well as it should.
Speaker 7 (35:18):
To tell you the gut the gutters are backing up
and when we have uh, water damage on a newly
done redone bathroom.
Speaker 1 (35:27):
Right, yeah, yeah, for that reason, yeah, exactly so, so
I think what I would do is by trying to
find it. If you put a hose down that down spout, okay, Umm,
you're going to have more than just rain water, probably
more pressure and I'm guessing okay, and you won't see
(35:52):
the water flow, but the area right where that pipe
used to exit, where it's clogged or where it's been
covered up, we'll get saturated, it'll get wet, it'll get soft,
it'll be softer than the rest of the soil because
it's not that the water is totally blocked. It's just
(36:16):
really slow at dispersing the water. So that's what I
would do.
Speaker 5 (36:23):
That is an awesome idea, you smart.
Speaker 1 (36:27):
That's serious. But if it just gets real wet, then
you can dig down there and and you know, unclog
it and even get like a great idea, a little
spade in there and play it out. So yeah, try that, And.
Speaker 7 (36:40):
I say that, and I say that because my other
option was to dig around aimlessly.
Speaker 5 (36:44):
With a Mattek and hopefully hit something. You know, right,
this will work out. Well, I may still have to
do that, but I'll find moisture, you know right.
Speaker 1 (36:52):
It'll definitely you get enough water down that. And let's
say you put that hose on there and it starts
backing up in the in the down spout. Just let
it be. Turn the hose off for a while and
then will eventually drain out at that point and it'll
start getting wet.
Speaker 5 (37:11):
Nice. Thank you now, park part beating. My question is
the remainder of the down spot due to this exit
being clogged, have about a half inch maybe an inch
of mud. Some is wet, some is dry.
Speaker 7 (37:26):
I don't know if it's dry or not, but it's
definitely wet UH in the base of my four inch
drain pipe? How do I go about getting that out
of there? Is there a way? Give me some magic?
Speaker 1 (37:37):
So? So where's this at?
Speaker 5 (37:40):
Is this?
Speaker 1 (37:40):
Tell me again? Where is this mud?
Speaker 5 (37:43):
Well? As I mentioned the the drain pipe is clogged
and now there's a half inch or maybe I can't
even remember it.
Speaker 7 (37:54):
I sucked my hand down in there.
Speaker 5 (37:55):
One thing, I pulled the.
Speaker 7 (37:58):
Down spot out of the UH pipe and stuck my
hand and there's a half inch of mud and other
direction because it tees off it to another area that
goes up to a different.
Speaker 5 (38:09):
But there's mud in there. Did I just let that
go and let it drain eventually?
Speaker 1 (38:15):
Or well with the hose? So how would you get
to it? You would disconnect where the downspout meets the
pipe going underground. Yes, sir, Yeah, that's that's that's interesting
because that also, you know, maybe is telling you there's
another problem down there. Yeah, exactly. So you know the
(38:38):
way you could get it down is, you know, when
you disconnected, you could maybe take a hand trial, you know,
like a garden tower. They maybe have one with about
a you can get a long one which maybe has
a twelve inch blade to it where you could kind
of dig that out. Another thing is maybe try blast
(39:00):
out once you disconnect it, if we can take a
hose with a hard stream or if you have a
you know, maybe an electric pressure washer where you're not
gonna have too much pressure and just kind of blast
that pipe.
Speaker 8 (39:15):
Out right, or maybe grab one of those like you mentioned,
grab one of those hose nozzles that have a high pressure, right,
shove that dot in there and let it do some work.
Speaker 1 (39:25):
Yeah, because you can get up to I think six
hundred pounds per square inch of water pressure out of
a solid stream hose with good water pressure. So I'd
probably try clean it up that way. And another tip too,
you know, before we get into that, if we get
that cleaned out and you want to have that pipe
inspected and maybe you also want to find out where
(39:47):
it ends, is get somebody out there or rent a
pipe camera where you just run a coil down there
and you can see the you know, the whole pipe,
and you can also have how much cable you're running
in there to tell you where it ends or where
it's blocked.
Speaker 5 (40:06):
That's pretty awesome and you're a great guy, Gary, Thank.
Speaker 1 (40:08):
You all right, you very good, Thanks Connor, and I
appreciate thank you. All right, and let's go to Joe.
Joe welcome, Thank you, Gary, sir.
Speaker 4 (40:20):
Quick question. I've got two steps down from the house
onto a concrete patio. We've been here about a year
and a half. They get morning sun from eight o'clock
till maybe one in the afternoon. But looking at the steps,
even though it's treated wood and all that, nothing's been
done to it. Am I better off to seal that
(40:41):
with some sort of clear sealer? Should I painted?
Speaker 5 (40:44):
What would you recommend.
Speaker 1 (40:47):
I would get something on it? Are you doing it
to protect it? Or are you doing it for cosmetics.
Speaker 5 (40:55):
Protection?
Speaker 1 (40:56):
Okay, all right, so yes, I would seal it. Pressure
treated wood, actually, its main foe is not necessarily water.
It can be if the if the wood splits, because
that pressure treatments only down about a quarter of an
inch or so. But the main foe is the sun,
(41:18):
the ultraviolet rays of the sun. And over a large
period of time, that pressure treated wood will crack because
of the sun there's no UV block in the wood,
and then it'll open up the wood where water can
get to it and rot will occur. That's how it fails.
So if you use like a deck sealer, you're gonna
(41:39):
have all kinds of You know, you can get it
in brown, you can get in gray, you can get
it in cedar, you can get it in redwood. The
darker the color, the better the UV protection is. If
you put a clear seiler on there, it'll keep the
water out and maybe some sun, but it's overall protective
(42:04):
qualities will be gone in a year or two. So
you know, if you can get a brown or something
like that, you're gonna get another extra year and get
a real good quality. You get another extra year, but
by rule of thumb, you're probably not gonna with morning sun.
You probably won't get more three or four years of
protection from the sun. It'll begin to fade or where
(42:26):
or whatever. So just knowing that paint will give you
better protection. It'll get you up past five, six, seven years.
The problem with the paint is it's not a wood color.
It's paint. It's a surface protection, so it can be
slippery and if you have to redo it, you will
eventually you're gonna have to strip or remove that paint.
Speaker 4 (42:50):
How do I avoid this slippery part? Is there a
certain kind that would have a little bit of granular.
Speaker 1 (42:56):
Yeah, not too much. You can you can get a
you can get a silica sand. You can sprinkle the
pain in there. There's also I think it's called shark bite,
shark grip or shark bit. I get those in the
connectors mixed up. It's a plastic little sphere, real small
that sprinkled on the surface, which I'll add some protection,
(43:19):
but in all honesty, really for where that's at, i'd
probably i'd probably put a semi transparent chestnut brown stain
on there. If you can, it'll give you three or
four years, and if you need a little more in
four years. Listen, there's no sanding, there's no scraping. There's
just clean it and reapply. All right, Joe, thank you
(43:44):
very much, and good luck with that. Yeah, that's you
definitely want to get some protection on there or that
would will rot even though it's pressure treated, because that
would will split. Danny boy, thank you. A good fun
weekend and a good pace, Yes, but Danny and me
both busy and we appreciate that. Good Lord willing. We'll
(44:05):
be back next weekend for more at Home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 2 (44:25):
Time to get your hands dirty with Gary Sullivan. Give
him a call at one eight hundred and eighty two
three Talk You're at home with Gary Sullivan.
Well, the weekends upon us. Welcome. You're at Home with
Gary Salvin. This hours brought to you by nature Stone.
Check it out. Good looking stuff. Basement floors, laundry, garage floor.
It's naturestone dot com. All right, we thank them for
sponsoring this hour of that Home with Gary Salvin. As
we take your calls regarding your home projects, it's eight
(00:50):
hundred eight two three a two five five eight hundred
eight two three eight two five five. Go ahead and
grab a line and we'll chat a little bit about
what you're working on around your home or maybe a
little maintenance, maybe what you should be working on around
your home. And as the calendar continues to click forward, hooray,
(01:14):
things start cooling off and then we get into cold,
cold weather, and I want to spend just a little
time about talking about protecting the concrete around your home.
As we chatted yesterday, one thing concrete is guaranteed to
do is crack. It's going to crack. But it's how
we respond to different things that take place in deterioration
(01:38):
of our homes. And this is a good time of
year to think about whether it's asphalt or concrete, of
getting it sealed and do you need to seal it
every year. No, no, no. In fact, we'll start with asphalt.
Asphalt business has changed a lot. We used to seal
(01:59):
that just about every year, every year or two. Now
you don't have to do that. You can still do it,
but you don't have to do that because the quality
of the different sealers that are out there now a
lot of Again we bring up the words a curylic
resins sealers. You may have heard me talk about a
product called drive Max that's got a ten year warranty
(02:23):
fast dry time. They also make a seven year, a
five year, o two year. But you got options. So
you want to patch the cracks for sure, there's liquid
crack fillers, there's a masty crack filler, and then resealing
to minimize moisture penetration with a product like a drive
(02:45):
Max and very very resistant to the UV ray. So
I think a lot of times that was my job
seeing the asphalt drive wahen I was a kid, and
I really believe that. One one of the reasons we
did it was it was kind of like just like
painting a driveway, right, We wont that nice black crisp
(03:06):
look clean. Look. I think we oversealed it, and you
don't want to do that because just like if you're
painting a wall every year, eventually that pain film be
so thick it would begin to fail. So you know,
if you use an inexpensive sailors maybe every other year,
(03:26):
but the drivemax again ten years, and that's an awesome product.
It really is. For concrete, the first thing, you know,
you got to look at I talked about concrete is
guaranteed to crack, so we want to address the issues
(03:47):
of cracked concrete. And also sometimes you'll have like divots
that are out of the concrete, like little pot marks.
We want to patch those, create cements. They don't like
to stick to each other. So you don't want to
buy a big vega concrete you could, or sand mix
(04:10):
you could, but you'd have to add water, you'd have
to add a bonding agent. Got to clean out the divots,
and you got to apply it. Cracks. You don't want
to use a cementatious material again, cracks that are three
sixteenths of an inch. Your main purpose you're not gluing
(04:34):
it together. The main purpose is you're sealing the cracks
so moisture can't get underneath that slab, create erosion, cause
it to crack more, cause it to settle, cause a
tripping hazard. You got it. The progression of a problem.
There's a product called crack seal. It's a Latex crack sealer.
(04:55):
That's what goes in small cracks. Run a beat over it.
It'll self level sealed up. Rain's not gonna get underneath it.
Will it fail Eventually it will larger gaps between driveway
and garage floor, sidewalk and stoop sidewalk in house, in
(05:19):
between the expansion joints and a concrete a little bigger project.
Usually the gap is quarter inch plus, sometimes three quarters
of it, sometimes bigger in it. I wouldn't use a
latex on that. I'd use a your thane, and your
(05:41):
thane is expensive, but it's good. More expensive than latex.
I should say it's not expensive. It's just more expensive
than latex. It's got the best adhesion rating, it's got
the best flexibility ratings. You don't want to waste it.
You clean out that. You know, we'll say a half
(06:03):
inch crack and maybe that crevice it's not a crack,
it's just the expansion joint is pulled away. It's settled
maybe that gap is four inches deep. That's how deep
the thick the slab is. And maybe there was something
(06:23):
in there as an expansion joint, or maybe there was
nothing and it just pulled away and settled and there
you want to fill that with sand up to about
three ace of so up to about three ace from
the top of the slab, so you want to have
a little crevice, but not a big crevice. Put the
(06:46):
self leveling your thing. It comes in a heavy duty
cocking tube. You're gonna need a heavy duty cocking gun,
but its self levels. It puts a bead down and
then it levels, and if it is settling, it'll continue
to settle. Usually those things don't stop, but it'll stretch
(07:09):
and eventually it'll give up. But maybe you come back
and reapply. So that we want to get the cracks
filled though, for sure, and then sealed. Especially folks listening
right now live in northern climates. It's harsh and you
(07:31):
get road salt and you get corrosiveness going on, and
that's where you get those little pop marks or uneven surfaces.
I call it driveway acne because that's what it looks like.
Just kind of the surface is just kind of breaking
up a little bit. So by sealing it, that salty
(07:56):
brain solution doesn't penetrate into the concrete as far doesn't
create as much damage. If you haven't sealed a concrete
driveway for a while, that might be something you should entertain.
And your lifespan on that's three to five years. But boy,
(08:16):
if you just got new concrete, you don't want any
salt on that for a couple of years. And sometimes
you can't help it. You drive your car down the
streets and right on there. But you can seal it
right away. Not right away, not right away, twenty eight days, okay,
twenty eight days, you can seal it. There are cure
and seal products that can be mixed into the concrete
(08:38):
when they're pouring it. You need to check that to
see if they're going to do that, because then you're
going to want to wait a year. But for the
most part, you wait a month and you can go
ahead and seal the seal the driveway three to five
years that's going to last. So those are good projects
to tackle in the next month or so two months,
(09:00):
depending where you live. And it just is a whole
bunch of maintenance and a whole bunch of protection. When
I say a whole bunch, it's not like a whole
bunch hard work. The sealers that you want. You want
a breathable sealer. It can exhaust moisture from underneath that slab.
(09:21):
Out kind of works like gortex, kind of prevents the
water from going down through that slab. So you want
it breathable. You can put it on with anything you want,
including which is the way I do it, a tank sprayer.
You put the sealer in there, you just kind of
missed it on. You don't want it to puddle, you
don't want it to be running off. You want it
(09:43):
you know how you get a light sprinkle of rain
and it just kind of darkens the concrete. That's the
application you want to do. That's exactly how much you
want to put on there. If you do put too
much on, it starts puddling or running. Get somebody out
there with you, or you can just stop for a second,
(10:04):
take a brush or a roller cover and just roll
it out. Just don't let it pawn and dry or
it'll be shiny. We want it into the surface, So
put that on your fall project list. I think that
would be money well spent and time well used. All right,
Well take a break when we come back. We got
(10:24):
Karen and Tony and Rose and if you'd like to
join us do so. You're at home with Gary.
Speaker 2 (10:29):
Sullivan weekends, I mean a never writing list of things
to do.
Speaker 1 (10:32):
Around your home.
Speaker 2 (10:33):
Get help at one eight hundred and eighty two three
talk You're at home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 1 (10:53):
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(13:04):
it we go twenty one minutes after the top. They
are by the way. I just want to remind you
each and every hour of the show on Saturday and
Sunday is available to you via podcast. If you've enjoyed
what you hear today, maybe you want to, you know,
scalp back to yesterday and pick one of the hours.
(13:25):
You can take me on your walk. How's that? Listen
at your leisure and it's available wherever podcasts are. iHeart.
Just type in at home with Gary Slivan if you
want to go to garysalvanonline dot com. Danny does post
that link there and you can listen to the podcast
that way. But there each hour is labeled and you'll
(13:47):
see whether it's the first hour, second or third hour,
et cetera. But I did want to remind you that
that is available. All right, Karen, welcome.
Speaker 3 (13:58):
Thank you very much. Care I'm hoping you might might
be able to give me some help with my problem.
I live in a condominium association. However, each of us
in that association owns their own home and the property,
and my problem lies in the fact that my home
(14:20):
was built before each of the homes on each side
of me were built, and the homes on the east
of me, the home on the east of me was
graded so that the water runs off and it runs
toward my home, and the one on the west has
(14:42):
a little more distance between my home and that home
than the one on the east, and so degrading on
that one doesn't affect the water flow into my lower
level that the one on the east does.
Speaker 4 (15:00):
Approached the.
Speaker 3 (15:03):
Developer or the I guess one in the same the
builder and the developer about my problem, and he seems
to think that the coffee can drains, and that's what
I call them, because they're a cylinder with a bottom
in it and a pipe coming out of the down
(15:26):
spouts into that drain, and there is no way that
the water drains out of that coffee can drain. It
just fits in there. And so when we have a
heavy rainstorm, the rain water from the home to the
east of me, which is probably about twenty five feet
(15:48):
away from my home, drains down into my back. I
have a walkout, so it drains down into the area
of my walkout. And the developer has gone or the
builder one and the same has gone to the board
that the association board and has told them the story.
(16:13):
And I received an email back saying that that's my
problem and I need to have it fixed at my expense. Now,
there have been six to eight other homes in that
community who have had the same issue I have, only
they've had severe damage to the lower level and I
(16:36):
don't want to have that. I'm trying to be proactive
and take care of that water. So I don't know
to whom I need to go that could perhaps help
me with that issue to tell me how to fix
it and then say.
Speaker 1 (16:51):
Yeah, what I would do in the drain that you
were talking about, that's an exterior drain, Yes, okay.
Speaker 3 (17:02):
There are about four of them in my.
Speaker 1 (17:03):
Back yeah, yeah, yeah, Well you know, based on where
you're at with clay. I don't know how well that's
going to drain either, but I think what you really
need to do is you need to contact an excavator.
Sounds like a scary name, but what they do is
they work on projects exactly like this and they're very
(17:27):
common problems. You know, properties different highs and highs and lows,
and if you got hills, and you know, it's not
about waterproofing, it's total water control. I don't know if
your ground slopes down past your home. But when you
were telling me what you were what the problem was,
(17:49):
I was thinking, like an underground French drain would be ideal.
If it's draining into this little create a culvert. An
excavator is going to move soil. It's going to to
give an escape route for the water. It's going to
funnel water to like a little valley that they would create.
You would put a pipe under ground where the water
(18:10):
would flow to the pipe. It's got slits in it,
and then they would create, you know, a slope underground
with that pipe and exit the water away from the homes.
I'm being very elementary here. Nothing's ever that easy. But
you asked me what you should do, and I would say,
I would get a hold of an excavator. I'd tell
(18:32):
them what your problem is. I wouldn't get into what
the builders say and in the condos, I wouldn't get
in any of that yet. I would get his opinion
of what's going on, what would be needed in the
approximate cost to solve my problem, and then we'll work
on the other end of it.
Speaker 3 (18:53):
Okay, So the grating from the house to the east
of me is tips, so that are graded so that
it grows, definitely grows toward my house.
Speaker 1 (19:05):
Right right. I understand that, and I'll put you on hold.
We can talk on the other side of the break
if you feel you still have some questions. I understand
what's causing. We just got to catch that water and
we can and move it away from the house. We'll
continue at home with Gary Solivan.
Speaker 2 (19:33):
If you don't have a list of things to do
around the house, Gary will find something for you at
one eight hundred eighty two three talk you're at home
with Gary.
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All right back at it. We'll go thirty three minutes
after the top of the hour, and let's go back
(22:12):
to Karen here, we're having a discussion really on creating
drainage around the home. All right, Karen, Sorry I had
to break a hard time there.
Speaker 3 (22:22):
Thank you so much. So my question to you would be,
do you would you have a recommendation of some excavating
company in Kalamazoo Township that might be able to I don't.
Speaker 1 (22:35):
I'm located down in Ohio, so I don't have a
local company that I can recommend. But you could ask around.
If you've got a NARI Association National Institute of the
Remodeling Industry, they could make a recommendations. Go on Angie's List,
look up you know excavation companies you can you can
(23:01):
find and just make sure you get one with good references.
But I don't have one. Maybe even asking not your builder,
but different builders you know, and see if they have one.
But that's I think the person that's really going to
be able to they'll even be able to test. I
don't know if when you talked about having like an
(23:23):
outdoor outdoor sump pit installed, whether there was any soil
percolation tests done and not. That'd be really important because
if the soil can't you know, exhaust that water out
of that pit. You would probably have to put a
pump in there to pump it away, which is fine,
(23:45):
but there's a little bit more to it than just
putting a well down in there.
Speaker 3 (23:50):
Sure, my house is a walk out on the bottom,
a lower level, right and the water is pooling so
close to my sliding glass door.
Speaker 1 (24:00):
I'm getting Yeah, And eventually you're doing the right thing, Karen.
Eventually it's going to become a problem. I mean, soil
land it's always kind of changing, and if it's not
going to change direction, it's just going to you know,
you get a little bit more erosion, gives it a
(24:20):
little bit more permission to get closer to the openings
of your home. It will eventually become a problem. So
you're spot on. It's a problem now you see where
it's going, and in good we got to figure out
a way how we control that away from your property
without messing up something else.
Speaker 3 (24:41):
Okay, all right, all right, Gary, thank you so much.
I listened to you religiously on Sundays, So thank you.
Speaker 1 (24:48):
All right, Karen, thank.
Speaker 3 (24:49):
You, thank you, bye bye bye bye.
Speaker 1 (24:52):
All right. Yeah, that's frustrating, but that's you know, it's
there's different laws and things too, where you can water.
I mean, it gets complicated, but a good excavator, I'm
sure he'll be able to help.
Speaker 5 (25:05):
Karen.
Speaker 1 (25:05):
All right, let's get a rose. Rose welcome.
Speaker 4 (25:10):
Hello.
Speaker 6 (25:11):
That's the throw. Yes, I wanted to check. I had
a gazebo on my patio and I used to tie
my Hawaiian plant to one of the legs of the
of the gazebo to keep it from being blown over
by the wind. And so the gazebo has since rested
(25:35):
out at the top, but I kept the leg and
I want to counter synk the some bolts into the
concrete patio and put the head down so that I
can attach the leg to the patio. It's a six
(26:01):
foot tall metal post and it well, it weighs fourteen pounds,
so it's pretty substantial. So I want to drill holes
into four holes. It has a base plate on it,
and I want to drill four holes into the concrete patio,
(26:25):
put the bolt in head down, and then what do
I fill.
Speaker 5 (26:32):
The holes with?
Speaker 1 (26:34):
Well, actually, there is a product you could do a
couple of things. There is. Quick Creek makes both of them.
One of them is in a POxy. It's in a
POxy anchoring cement, so it comes in a calking tube.
They're actually using this now with a lot of wrought
(26:58):
iron railings. Where it used to be you would draw
a big hole and you would use an anchoring cement
in there, which you can still do, or you can
use this apoxy, so it comes in a cocking tube.
It actually mixes as it's coming out of the spout rows,
(27:18):
so it's and the size of the hole will be
a little bit large because you're going to have a
head on that and you're going to put the head
down first, so you're gonna have plenty of room around
that bolt, and you literally just pump this epoxy anchoring
cement into the concrete hole. Okay, that's one. The other
(27:39):
option would be you'd have to make a hole twice
the size of the bolt that you're going to put
in there, so it'd be a bigger hole, that's for sure,
because I imagine you're going to use three ace to a
half inch threaded bolt. Yeah, and you would put that
in there, and you would get anchoring cement. It's a
(28:02):
powder that's mixed with water, and you would put that
in or in the hole. The hole will be larger
than the other hole, and that's how that's how you'd
anchor that.
Speaker 6 (28:16):
Okay, so you think the cocking.
Speaker 1 (28:21):
Tu Yeah, yeah, the word cacking doesn't do it justice.
It is literally an epoxy anchoring cement, but it mixes.
It's got a resinant, a hardener and in the tube. Yeah,
I think that's what I would use. That would be
pretty easy to use. It's very substantial and it would
definitely do the job. Now, the other thing you could
(28:44):
consider doing too, is there are anchoring anchors that it's
a bolt or a piece of threaded rod with a
nut on the top, and it has a light steel casing.
So you put that in and then you tighten up
that bolt, all right, and it expands the wings out
(29:05):
of that anchor, and that hole has already been pumped
full of that epoxy. So you push that in and
then you tighten that nut, and then you put the
plate over the nut. The nut is subsurface and the
threaded rod is sticking up. Just another way to do it.
We're kind of getting to the same thing, but you know,
(29:27):
it's got wings out, so there's gonna be a little
bit more grab power there. But I think either way
will work.
Speaker 5 (29:32):
Fine, okay.
Speaker 6 (29:35):
So, and then if I eliminate this pole, which would
be the easiest to remove, if I if I want to.
Speaker 1 (29:47):
Take the well, I think no matter what you're gonna do,
you're gonna end up taking you know, some sort of
saw and cutting the bolt off. I don't think you're
gonna pull it out.
Speaker 6 (29:59):
Okay, all right, all right, that sounds great, Thank you good.
I wanted to ask a question. A couple of weeks ago,
a lady had called in and she said that she
had some of the white plastic furniture and that she
(30:20):
got it clean and then she put Millsic on it.
And I was wondering which Millsick it was.
Speaker 1 (30:28):
The actual furniture. Millsick polish cleaner and polish the wood
the wood one, yes.
Speaker 6 (30:35):
Uh huh oh okay, and you just put it on and.
Speaker 1 (30:40):
Yeah, that's what she said. I haven't used it. I've
used it on a cast aluminum outdoor table to kind
of make it pop and it worked beautiful, but I've
never used it on the PVC furniture. Well, yeah, yeah,
it was the furniture one.
Speaker 6 (30:55):
Okay, all right, all right, thank you so much.
Speaker 1 (30:59):
You're quite welcome. Thank you, all right, well, take a
break and coming back. We got Conrad and if you'd
like to jump on board and join us, I certainly
invite you to do so. We got a few minutes
left to get your call on. It's eight hundred eight
two three eight two five five and you're at home
with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 2 (31:18):
Help for your home is just a click away at
Garysullivan online dot com. This is at home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 1 (31:41):
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(34:04):
work together on taking care of some of those maintenance
and repair issues around your home. And if you'd like
to join us, do so as we work our way
through the weekend. Let's go to Conrad. Conrad, Welcome, Hi, Gary,
thank you.
Speaker 3 (34:18):
Hey.
Speaker 5 (34:18):
I have a friend who recently bought a home and
she has the gout her down spout drains. But of
course you're under the ground right, But the where it
comes out of the ground is completely clogged.
Speaker 7 (34:31):
It's covered with sod grass, okay, and I can't find it.
Speaker 5 (34:36):
I'm oputting.
Speaker 7 (34:36):
You can offer me some kind of a suggestion or
magical tip in order from you to find us.
Speaker 1 (34:41):
Well, I don't know about magical tip. I got an
idea if it's covered, and that's a good You know,
what you say is worth everybody listening to because where
the downspout drains or an underground French drain peak their
head out of the soil as the topography slopes down
(35:05):
to exit the water. Once that gets clogged, you're right,
it's probably not doing its job either of dispersing that
water as well as it should.
Speaker 7 (35:18):
To tell you the gut the gutters are backing up
and when we have uh, water damage on a newly
done redone bathroom.
Speaker 1 (35:27):
Right, yeah, yeah, for that reason, yeah, exactly so, so
I think what I would do is by trying to
find it. If you put a hose down that down spout, okay, Umm,
you're going to have more than just rain water, probably
more pressure and I'm guessing okay, and you won't see
(35:52):
the water flow, but the area right where that pipe
used to exit, where it's clogged or where it's been
covered up, we'll get saturated, it'll get wet, it'll get soft,
it'll be softer than the rest of the soil because
it's not that the water is totally blocked. It's just
(36:16):
really slow at dispersing the water. So that's what I
would do.
Speaker 5 (36:23):
That is an awesome idea, you smart.
Speaker 1 (36:27):
That's serious. But if it just gets real wet, then
you can dig down there and and you know, unclog
it and even get like a great idea, a little
spade in there and play it out. So yeah, try that, And.
Speaker 7 (36:40):
I say that, and I say that because my other
option was to dig around aimlessly.
Speaker 5 (36:44):
With a Mattek and hopefully hit something. You know, right,
this will work out. Well, I may still have to
do that, but I'll find moisture, you know right.
Speaker 1 (36:52):
It'll definitely you get enough water down that. And let's
say you put that hose on there and it starts
backing up in the in the down spout. Just let
it be. Turn the hose off for a while and
then will eventually drain out at that point and it'll
start getting wet.
Speaker 5 (37:11):
Nice. Thank you now, park part beating. My question is
the remainder of the down spot due to this exit
being clogged, have about a half inch maybe an inch
of mud. Some is wet, some is dry.
Speaker 7 (37:26):
I don't know if it's dry or not, but it's
definitely wet UH in the base of my four inch
drain pipe? How do I go about getting that out
of there? Is there a way? Give me some magic?
Speaker 1 (37:37):
So? So where's this at?
Speaker 5 (37:40):
Is this?
Speaker 1 (37:40):
Tell me again? Where is this mud?
Speaker 5 (37:43):
Well? As I mentioned the the drain pipe is clogged
and now there's a half inch or maybe I can't
even remember it.
Speaker 7 (37:54):
I sucked my hand down in there.
Speaker 5 (37:55):
One thing, I pulled the.
Speaker 7 (37:58):
Down spot out of the UH pipe and stuck my
hand and there's a half inch of mud and other
direction because it tees off it to another area that
goes up to a different.
Speaker 5 (38:09):
But there's mud in there. Did I just let that
go and let it drain eventually?
Speaker 1 (38:15):
Or well with the hose? So how would you get
to it? You would disconnect where the downspout meets the
pipe going underground. Yes, sir, Yeah, that's that's that's interesting
because that also, you know, maybe is telling you there's
another problem down there. Yeah, exactly. So you know the
(38:38):
way you could get it down is, you know, when
you disconnected, you could maybe take a hand trial, you know,
like a garden tower. They maybe have one with about
a you can get a long one which maybe has
a twelve inch blade to it where you could kind
of dig that out. Another thing is maybe try blast
(39:00):
out once you disconnect it, if we can take a
hose with a hard stream or if you have a
you know, maybe an electric pressure washer where you're not
gonna have too much pressure and just kind of blast
that pipe.
Speaker 8 (39:15):
Out right, or maybe grab one of those like you mentioned,
grab one of those hose nozzles that have a high pressure, right,
shove that dot in there and let it do some work.
Speaker 1 (39:25):
Yeah, because you can get up to I think six
hundred pounds per square inch of water pressure out of
a solid stream hose with good water pressure. So I'd
probably try clean it up that way. And another tip too,
you know, before we get into that, if we get
that cleaned out and you want to have that pipe
inspected and maybe you also want to find out where
(39:47):
it ends, is get somebody out there or rent a
pipe camera where you just run a coil down there
and you can see the you know, the whole pipe,
and you can also have how much cable you're running
in there to tell you where it ends or where
it's blocked.
Speaker 5 (40:06):
That's pretty awesome and you're a great guy, Gary, Thank.
Speaker 1 (40:08):
You all right, you very good, Thanks Connor, and I
appreciate thank you. All right, and let's go to Joe.
Joe welcome, Thank you, Gary, sir.
Speaker 4 (40:20):
Quick question. I've got two steps down from the house
onto a concrete patio. We've been here about a year
and a half. They get morning sun from eight o'clock
till maybe one in the afternoon. But looking at the steps,
even though it's treated wood and all that, nothing's been
done to it. Am I better off to seal that
(40:41):
with some sort of clear sealer? Should I painted?
Speaker 5 (40:44):
What would you recommend.
Speaker 1 (40:47):
I would get something on it? Are you doing it
to protect it? Or are you doing it for cosmetics.
Speaker 5 (40:55):
Protection?
Speaker 1 (40:56):
Okay, all right, so yes, I would seal it. Pressure
treated wood, actually, its main foe is not necessarily water.
It can be if the if the wood splits, because
that pressure treatments only down about a quarter of an
inch or so. But the main foe is the sun,
(41:18):
the ultraviolet rays of the sun. And over a large
period of time, that pressure treated wood will crack because
of the sun there's no UV block in the wood,
and then it'll open up the wood where water can
get to it and rot will occur. That's how it fails.
So if you use like a deck sealer, you're gonna
(41:39):
have all kinds of You know, you can get it
in brown, you can get in gray, you can get
it in cedar, you can get it in redwood. The
darker the color, the better the UV protection is. If
you put a clear seiler on there, it'll keep the
water out and maybe some sun, but it's overall protective
(42:04):
qualities will be gone in a year or two. So
you know, if you can get a brown or something
like that, you're gonna get another extra year and get
a real good quality. You get another extra year, but
by rule of thumb, you're probably not gonna with morning sun.
You probably won't get more three or four years of
protection from the sun. It'll begin to fade or where
(42:26):
or whatever. So just knowing that paint will give you
better protection. It'll get you up past five, six, seven years.
The problem with the paint is it's not a wood color.
It's paint. It's a surface protection, so it can be
slippery and if you have to redo it, you will
eventually you're gonna have to strip or remove that paint.
Speaker 4 (42:50):
How do I avoid this slippery part? Is there a
certain kind that would have a little bit of granular.
Speaker 1 (42:56):
Yeah, not too much. You can you can get a
you can get a silica sand. You can sprinkle the
pain in there. There's also I think it's called shark bite,
shark grip or shark bit. I get those in the
connectors mixed up. It's a plastic little sphere, real small
that sprinkled on the surface, which I'll add some protection,
(43:19):
but in all honesty, really for where that's at, i'd
probably i'd probably put a semi transparent chestnut brown stain
on there. If you can, it'll give you three or
four years, and if you need a little more in
four years. Listen, there's no sanding, there's no scraping. There's
just clean it and reapply. All right, Joe, thank you
(43:44):
very much, and good luck with that. Yeah, that's you
definitely want to get some protection on there or that
would will rot even though it's pressure treated, because that
would will split. Danny boy, thank you. A good fun
weekend and a good pace, Yes, but Danny and me
both busy and we appreciate that. Good Lord willing. We'll
(44:05):
be back next weekend for more at Home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 2 (44:25):
Time to get your hands dirty with Gary Sullivan. Give
him a call at one eight hundred and eighty two
three Talk You're at home with Gary Sullivan.
At Home with Gary Sullivan News
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