Episode Transcript
Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
Speaker 1 (00:31):
Well, it's the weekend. Welcome you're at Home with Gary
Sullivan as well. I'll take you through another weekend. Glad
you could joined me. And by the way, this hour
is brought to you by Awesome. We just spoke as
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(00:55):
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Home with Gary Sullivan. All right, we're kind of on
a tangent, and it was a good tangent. We were
talking about patching cracks, dings, dents and wallboards. We were
(01:43):
talking about spacling. We're talking about joint compounds, talking about
priming it, talking about painting over it, But what about
the hole in the wall. You know, it used to
be a pretty standard way of taking care of that
was a couple ways. You could take a piece of cardboard,
(02:05):
you would cut it about the size of the hole.
You'd puncture a little hole in it. You'd tie a
little string, knock behind it, shove it in the hole,
pull it out, and that would give you the backing
to make that patch. Maybe with a like something like
a drawer rock, which is a powder. It's mixed with water.
(02:28):
It actually cures, it hard hardens, and you make that
patch that way. Or take a piece of drywall, cut
it through the size and you would cut the back
of the gypsum. You would trim that to the hole.
So you're kind of creating a plug and you would
just plug it. I say, just you got to be
(02:48):
kind of precise. Plug it and square up the hole
in the wall. Cut the back of the drywall, and
you're gonna just push that in. The paper's going to
be on the outside. You can mud and then feather
edge that in. That's the way that standard way of
patching a hole in drywall. Now now there's a new
(03:10):
product out which is very cool. I got introduced to
it about probably about two years ago, relatively new on
the market, made by DAP. And it's called Eclipse. That's
what this patch is called. How would you feel if
I told you you can patch that hole in the
(03:30):
wall without any patch, without any dura rock, without any
backer rod, without anything, but this product called Eclipse. And
what Eclipse is is it is a circular I'm gonna
(03:52):
call it a circular band aid, all right. It's circular.
It's probably, I don't know, a nine inch in diameter,
So it doesn't matter whether it's the size of a doorknob,
the size of a fist, the size of a knee.
Will stop there. So you get a hole in the drywall,
you can take this Eclipse and it's gosh, you know
(04:15):
what it feels like. It feels like almost like a
plastic type reinforced parchment paper. You may say, well, what's
that feel like? I don't, but that's what it feels
like to me. And you peel off the back of
this patch and you just press it over the existing hole.
(04:39):
It's real solid, it's taut, and it's paintable. You notice
we didn't put anything in that hole, and we don't
put anything in that hole. We take this eclipse, this
band aid, this wall band aid, and we put it
(05:00):
over the hole. And all we're gonna do at this
point is paint it. It's very thin, and you're gonna
put about two, maybe i'd say three coats of paint
over this patch. And with today's good quality paints, thick
(05:24):
paints the edge of this eclipse, which is very thin,
about the thickness of a paper piece of paper, it
will make that as smooth as can be. And with
the paint on their it'll make that patch rigid. If
you ever get a chance, go ahead and try it.
(05:46):
It's not cheape, I think. I think it's like nine bucks,
nine ten bucks, maybe eight to ten bucks, we'll say.
And you get about three of those patches in there,
so if you don't lose the other two, you can
save them for another day. Really a cool product, well
(06:08):
worth the money. I'll take three dollars a patch, right,
there's three dollars worth of frustration doing it the other way.
But I wanted to let you know that that is
out on the market. A lot of big box stores,
independent hardware stores will carry that, so it's called Eclipse.
It's made by DAP. You can check it out on
(06:29):
our website. All right, our phone number is eight hundred
eight two three eight two five five. You can grab
a line. Sam welcome.
Speaker 2 (06:37):
All right, Yes, sir, Yeah, I got a question about
my conditioning unit.
Speaker 3 (06:43):
I said it at sixty eight degrees, and then I
leave the house and I come back and like my
floors in my house, I guess you got converensation on it,
and the seems not staying at sixty eight degrees. So
I'm trying to figure out why nice seems not keeping
(07:03):
the moisture out of my house.
Speaker 1 (07:06):
Well, I I that's Do you know what kind of
humidity you're running in that house?
Speaker 2 (07:13):
No, I don't know that.
Speaker 1 (07:15):
I just I think that's where I'll go.
Speaker 4 (07:18):
I'll turn term step back down to like fifty five,
and then the temperature slowly starts going back down. You
know it'll because it's like one hundred and fifteen degrees
over here in Oklahoma.
Speaker 1 (07:29):
Well, that's what I was just getting ready to ask you,
is what the outdoor temperature is. So there's about you know,
you can comfortably run an air conditioner to lower the
temperature about twenty to twenty five degrees, and my guess
is that's what's causing the compensations. The outside temperature so hot.
(07:49):
The more you if you don't turn it down real low,
it's not going to take out all the humidity. And
then you turn it down real low and it might
take out the humidity, but it's not going to last
there for long. How is it at night? There's a
couple of things I want to know. First is does
it quit doing that at night when the outdoor temperatures
(08:13):
cool off a little bit. I mean, we have extreme
conditions that this thing's running in right now. That would
be question number one. Is your fan on on or
is it on auto? That's a question I have. Also,
it's on the auto.
Speaker 4 (08:29):
And at night time?
Speaker 3 (08:30):
Yeah, nighttime it runs at sixty eight degrees, No problem,
it doesn't. The temperature doesn't fluctuate, it nothing.
Speaker 1 (08:37):
Right because the outside temperature is dropped right.
Speaker 3 (08:42):
Yeah, it's just during the day because I got an
floors I'll come home and it's like eighty degrees in
the house. R But I got the thermosass that at
like sixty eight.
Speaker 1 (08:52):
Well, it just can't keep up, That's what I'm saying.
It if it is truly one hundred and fifteen degrees
and you got said sixty eight, it's it's not gonna
keep it at sixty eight, period.
Speaker 2 (09:04):
So how do I how do I get it the
esthetic tolor during the day.
Speaker 1 (09:10):
It's it's it's not going. What I'm saying is it's
just not going to cool that house down to sixty
eight when it's one hundred and fifteen degrees. You know,
you only have that problem when it's that extremely hot.
It's not designed to do that again at best thirty degrees.
(09:34):
You said it at seventy it's one hundred degrees outside,
it's gonna be able to hold it at seventy. If
it's one hundred and fifteen out there, No, it's not
gonna hold it. It's gonna it's gonna go up. You're
gonna have humidity inside that house because when it's just
(09:55):
it's just not going to be able to hold all
that moisture in air. It's gonna create sensation on hard,
slick surfaces. And I'm guessing that floor you're talking about
is a ceramic floor, a slick, hard surface. Yeah, yeah,
I would find out what your humidity is. I mean,
you could try and air do you midifier? I'm sure
(10:18):
other people are experiencing the same things that you're experiencing.
And again it involves whether it's an air conditioner, Sam,
I don't know. You might want to call a tech
out to take a look at it and see if
(10:39):
there's any adjustments on the fans that can happen. But really,
when you think about it's also about the sizing of
the air conditioner. It's about how energy efficient to home is.
Warm air can hold more humidity than cool air. So
if you have how maybe that isn't super efficient in
(11:03):
terms of energy savings. We have really warm humid air
that's entering that house, and you know, eighty degrees is
cool compared to what we have outside, and that air
conditioning is going to shed that moisture that's in that
heated air. That's why it's a relative humidity. At night,
(11:26):
maybe it only drops down to seventy five, maybe not
till maybe it's eighty degrees. But if it's eighty degrees
in human you got said sixty eight, it's well within
range to cool that and take the humidity out. The
air conditioner is a great deumidifier, So what I'm saying
is because of that range, and check with your AC guy.
(11:50):
Because of that range, you might need a little help
from like a deumidifier.
Speaker 2 (11:57):
Okay, all right, all right, thank you mm.
Speaker 1 (12:01):
Hm take care. One other thing I would add to
that too is get a humidity gauge. Let's find out
what that is. Make sure that we're running the bathroom
fans exhausted. Try to make it easy on that air conditioners.
You can run that fan, uh, you know after the shower,
during the shower, for like a half hour after the shower.
(12:21):
That will help. Also, we'll continue with your calls. Eight
hundred eight two three eight two five five. You're at
home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 5 (12:30):
It's the weekend and you have fixed questions.
Speaker 6 (12:32):
Give Gary a call at one eight hundred eight two
three talk.
Speaker 5 (12:36):
This is at home with Gary Sullivant.
Speaker 1 (12:54):
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(15:16):
We go at Home with Gary Sullivan talking a little
home improvement. Our phone number if you'd like to join,
it's eight hundred and eight two three eight two five
five and don welcome.
Speaker 7 (15:28):
Hey, good morning Gary. In reference to the gentleman who
you just talked to about one hundred and fifteen degree temperature,
house is full of humidity. I have a possible solution
to his problem. He should check his condensate drain. If
that is plugged, that's going to keep all that moisture
in that evaporator and that fans is going to keep
(15:48):
blowing moisture through the air. That's one thing. The other
thing is he should have a professional come and check
the high and low side pressures in that and make
sure he has a correct amount of free on. I
got to say, and a great day.
Speaker 1 (16:01):
Okay, all right, don thank you. Those are two great tips.
In fact, Danny and I were even chatting after the
break and we were talking, you know, even dirty filters.
That was another one. I did think about the common
Say tube when I was going to the break. That's
certainly another thing. There's quite a few things. Really. I
struggled with this, Maybe not as extreme as his was,
(16:26):
but I struggled with it getting the humidity correct in
my home. My common Say tube wasn't clogged. But what
I did have is I had the fan on on
and the coils never really had a chance to dry
and was blowing that moist air back in through the house.
(16:47):
So changing from and I asked him what he had
it on. He said he had it on auto, which
would be correct. I had mine on which was not correct.
On's fine in the winter time, but not so great
in the summer was real hot. And I made that
adjustment and it really helped a bunch. I mean it
(17:10):
significantly helped. I also did call an ac tech to
come out and check the free ons, which was fine,
but there was he had the ability to change and
I don't the time that the fan ran and the
(17:34):
speed that the fan ran. That was helpful also and
got it under control. So it is a combination of
a few things. A couple of things he mentioned absolutely
spot on, and certainly thank him for making that call. Also,
even just checking on the outside of the home. It
needs if there's a heat pump outside, it needs good airflow.
(17:57):
We also see that especially this time year, or even
early in the year, if people haven't had it serviced annually,
where the bushes grow over and tightly around the unit outside,
or grass clippings are blown and they're stuck in the
(18:19):
fins of the unit outside possible just cleaning will even help.
So there's quite a few things. One of the things
I'm a big advocate of and I lived it when
I really didn't have the money the knowledge I could
do some of it, not all of it, of having
(18:41):
them that unit, that air conditioning, that furnace maintained seasonally.
If you talk to any technician, I've talked to plenty
of them on this show, I'll ask them when people
call you when it's really extreme temperatures and their unit
is broke down, what's the percent of units that are
broken down that aren't serviced annually? And I can't remember
(19:06):
what they told me. I can tell you it was
over fifty percent, and I'm thinking more like seventy percent.
But if you service it annually, that's going to help you. Also,
don't think it isn't uh. They're going to check those
things and maintain those levels and take care of the
problems before they happen. Another thing to think about. All right,
(19:27):
it's eight hundred eight two three eight two five five.
That's the number. You can join us. We're talking home
improvement and you're at home with Gary Celibator.
Speaker 6 (19:42):
Takes it right with a call to Gary Celibate at
one eight hundred eighty two three talk.
Speaker 5 (19:47):
This is at Home with Gary Celibator.
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(22:33):
right back at it we go thirty three minutes after
the top of the air talking a little home improvement
on your weekend. If you'd like to join us, love
to chat with you. It's eight hundred eight two three
eight two five five. Feel free to grab a line.
And we got Dan Dan Welcome. Hi.
Speaker 8 (22:50):
I question about a window sash, and in particular the
window itself, the glazing. I was refinishing the sash, taking
him down to Bearwood restaining revarnishing, and I think I
got distracted. I said an orbital standard down on top
of the glass. It was towards the end of its cycle,
but it still scratched the glass.
Speaker 9 (23:12):
And I don't really want to replace the entire glazing
itself because it's a twenty six year old window. It's
not that noticeable, but it's more of an irritant. And
I've asked the glass shop and they want to replace
the entire glazing. Same with another shop. They did say
there was something I could use, but it would kind
(23:32):
of make a distortion in the glass, and I just thought, well,
a distortion is better than a obvious mar and abrasion.
So I didn't know if you had a good answer
for I've seen some things on the web. It's a
you know, a buffing compound of some kind that.
Speaker 1 (23:48):
You know, uge or something along those lines.
Speaker 7 (23:52):
Yeah, it was a powder.
Speaker 9 (23:53):
It wasn't Jeweler's rouge, but it was that kind of thing.
Speaker 1 (23:56):
Yeah, yeah, And you probably just spoke about as much
as I know about that. There is a polishing compound,
and you know a lot of imperfections on glass and things.
A person that would just clean windows would just use
a soap solution and a steel wool actually like a
three out or four steel wool. But it's not going
(24:18):
to be enough to remove scratches in glass, would be
my assumption, even though it's a mild scratch. I know
there are buffing compounds. I've never used one for glass,
and it does make sense to me that there would
be distortions. Remember, glasses actually considered a liquid, but that
(24:43):
liquid can scratch too, So I don't know if it
would be better. You know that distortion would be better
in a scratch. I can't see the scratch, and I
don't know what a distortion would look like. It might
be something that if you went to a glass shop,
if they could maybe test a pattern, uh, you know
(25:08):
where they use that compound on a piece of glass,
so you can determine. So you got something to compare.
Speaker 8 (25:16):
Yeah, yeah, that's a good idea.
Speaker 1 (25:18):
But all right, well be it for me on that yeah,
inside of replacing the glass.
Speaker 8 (25:23):
All right, Well, if I have any if I have
any luck, I'll call you back and let you know
how it turned out.
Speaker 1 (25:27):
All right, Yeah, I appreciate that. Thank you, take care.
All right, then let's go to Tony. Tony welcome, Thank
you for taking my call.
Speaker 4 (25:38):
Gary.
Speaker 1 (25:39):
Yes, I have two problems.
Speaker 10 (25:42):
I have a ninety three Ford explore. The rear bumper
is rushing from the back of the bumper forward and
it's solid, a solid bumper.
Speaker 11 (25:55):
It's not the.
Speaker 10 (25:58):
Crash resistant guy. There's small cracks that look like rust
coming through. They vary from an inch to maybe three inches.
There's a couple of them, and I was wondering if
I need to if you have any suggestions on how
to handle the issue.
Speaker 1 (26:18):
Well, I can handle the back part of that bumper
where it's actually coming through. Is that a chrome bumper
on there where it's cracking the chrome plating? Yes, yeah, see,
I can neutralize the rust on the backside, but I
don't know if it's going to neutralize the rust all
the way through the metal to keep it from cracking
(26:40):
the chrome. All right, So there's a couple of things.
There is the people that make blaster They make a
rust removing compound that is liquid and it has to
be sprayed and soaked, so that might be a little difficult.
(27:05):
There's also one and you could go to Blastercorp dot
com and kind of read about that particular product on
i'm Another one you could try is there's a product
called rust neutralizer. Rusts neutralizer is a chemical that reacts
(27:26):
with iron oxide and it creates a chemical reaction and
turns the rust black and seals the rust into the metal.
And now you know why. I don't know how far
it seals the rust in. Does it get all the
way through the metal? I doubt it. I don't know.
I don't know. I do know it'll stop it from
(27:48):
rusting that it is sprayed on, but I don't know
about the whole ordeal of being on the other side
where it's actually cracking the plating off the metal.
Speaker 10 (28:01):
I was thinking of maybe taking something sharp and kind
of scratching some of the chrome off and maybe I
can neutralize it that way.
Speaker 1 (28:09):
Well, you might be able to do that. I mean
you if the rust is exposed. I don't have any
problem with it or with saying that it would work.
So this chemical when it comes in contact with iron oxide,
it creates a chemical direction and seals the rust in.
Speaker 10 (28:29):
So is it is it something that waterproof or do
I need to paint or no?
Speaker 1 (28:34):
It can function as a primer. Actually, so do this.
You're gonna have to do a little more homework. I
don't have all the answers for you. You can go
to Blaster corpcrp dot com take a look at their
rusty moving product. They have it for like tools that
(28:56):
rust where you actually soak like saw blades in to
a pool of this. They have a couple of products
that I'd want you to read about to see if
you can see if that would help you or not.
The other one, I think a rust neutralizer is now
owned by Rustolium. You probably find that on their website.
(29:21):
You can find it in auto shops, you can find
it in hardware stores, and it will neutralize rust as
well as it comes in contact. And then maybe you
could you know, rather than plating, I don't know, can
you get a chrome touch up where you could put
that over it? If you wanted to rather than they
have a black streak. That might be an option also.
Speaker 10 (29:44):
And I assume when I put on the neutralizer, I
have to remove it excess scally rust.
Speaker 1 (29:52):
I try to remove as much as you can, yes,
because you know, I mean if it's scaling and flaking
and even falling off. I'm not saying you gotta get
in there with a wire brush, but I would get
as much of the crustation of the rust off as
you can to you actually have a you know, a
(30:13):
field of rust and not where it's breaking off the
metal itself.
Speaker 11 (30:19):
Copy that, all right.
Speaker 10 (30:21):
My other issue is I have some aluminum sighting on
my house and it's twenty five years old de siding
and starting to see the metal right quite paint or
whatever is solely oxidized off. Correct, I just repainted.
Speaker 1 (30:41):
Yeah, you can repaint metal sighting for sure. In fact,
you can even repaint vinyl sighting as it oxidizes and fades.
Now you've got to get as much of the oxidized
paint off as you can. I do know. Sherman Williams
actually has a product I can't think of the name
of it where it'll help remove the oxidized paint back
(31:05):
in the day. I know, the first house I bought
had white steel sighting I think it was aluminum sighting,
white aluminum sighting on it, and it had oxidized to
a point where it's almost gray. And I'd washed that
house down with tri sodium phosphate and water and rinse
(31:28):
the heck of it, and part of that house looked
like an American Airlines plane. I mean it took took
the rest of it off right and a lot of places,
and it really removed a lot of the oxidation. And
I paint primed and painted. When I sold it, it
was still going strong. When I drive by it, it
(31:48):
was still going strong. I'll bet that paint lasts another
twenty years.
Speaker 10 (31:54):
That's why I want.
Speaker 1 (31:55):
And that was a long time ago. Paints have improved
dramatically since then. So I think if you use you know,
their remover for oxidized paints, or use tri sodium phosphate
and you know, get all that or get as much
that oxidation off as you can. Use a good acrylic
house paint primer and followed up with their top of
(32:15):
the line like their Emerald paint with UH with a primer,
so you're gonna have like two coats of primer if
you will, and code with that. I think you'd be
good to go. I think we look a brand new
get you do it in flat too, because if it's
metal siding, you got dings and dents there, and that
flat won't you know, call attention to those dings and dents.
Speaker 10 (32:41):
And the sighting is also in Okay, a couple of
instances above the brick, and I assume the tri solium
phosphate is not going to stain the.
Speaker 1 (32:52):
Brick, Well, the trisodium phosphate won't stain the brick, the
actual uh oxidation of the paint may, so you'd want
to keep wetting that down.
Speaker 10 (33:06):
Because it's already kind.
Speaker 1 (33:07):
Of sure exactly.
Speaker 10 (33:09):
The brick from all the years.
Speaker 1 (33:11):
Absolutely called chalking. Those sighting paints were designed to be
self cleansing, so they they purposefully chalked. And you drive
through neighborhoods where homes were built in the forties, and
I guarantee you there'll be a lot of white paint
(33:31):
on the side of red brick homes.
Speaker 10 (33:34):
Would you try s take off the chalking or is
it just going to be there?
Speaker 1 (33:38):
Well, Umm, you can try it. I'm not going to
guarantee that. There's different house wash companies like Great American
and things like that that do have a chemical solution
and they use a hot water uh pressure washing system
that will remove that.
Speaker 10 (34:00):
All right.
Speaker 1 (34:01):
There's also Dumont Chemical You're gonna hear a lot about
in the next year or so. I actually have a
call with the president of the company this week. If
I'm not mistaken. They have a graffiti and uh paint
oxidation removing product which I'll learn more about this week
(34:23):
and pass that on next week.
Speaker 10 (34:26):
Very good. I will definitely listen.
Speaker 1 (34:28):
Very good for your help. Thanks tonypreciate it. You bet
take care all right. Uh we got open lines, which
means you can dial in. I invite you to do so.
Danny's ready to take your call our phone number eight
hundred eight two three eight two five five. And you're
at home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 6 (34:48):
Help for your home is just a click away at
Garysullivan online dot com.
Speaker 5 (34:53):
This is at home with Gary Sullivan.
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home with Gary Salvin working our way through the weekend.
Thanks for joining me, and let's get back to the
phone calls. We got Frank Frank, welcome.
Speaker 12 (37:38):
Hi Gary, Yes, good, A solution for your gentlemen who
accidentally sanded his glass window.
Speaker 1 (37:45):
Great and wanted to fix it up.
Speaker 12 (37:47):
I'm a bit of an amateur gem cutter, okay. And
what he needs to do is take some serium oxide
powder and that's pretty readily available onlinem Oxidekay. It's optical
grade polishing. It's what they used to polish glasses, et cetera,
et cetera. So you mix it with a little bit
(38:09):
of water into a paste, and you use a salt
buff and you just keep buffing and applying the compound
until you get total clarity in the scratch. I don't
know how deep his scratches are, whether he was using
you know, eighty grids sandpaper or five hundred grid, so
he may have to apply it for a while.
Speaker 1 (38:31):
Yeah. Yeah, So a couple of questions, and thank you
for that. I appreciate. I knew somebody was going to
know the answer to that, umm, because I was thinking
glass does get buffed out a lot in je Yeah, certainly,
so I knew there'd be an answer, but I had
no idea. So he said to me, and you know,
take it for what it's worth. That it's not real noticeable,
(38:55):
but he knows it's there. And when he took it
to the glass shop, you heard it. They said there
was something there, but it would become distorted. What you're
saying is you can do it by hand and we
can eliminate the distortion.
Speaker 12 (39:11):
Absolutely, no distortion, no nothing. It's a part of the
polishing process. You gradually go from you know whatever it is,
a five hundred grid maybe to one thousand grid as
you're polishing a gem, and then your final which puts
that glass like finish on, is the serium oxide power.
Speaker 10 (39:30):
Uh?
Speaker 1 (39:30):
Okay. So when you say you're teaching me, so I
apologize for the calls. But when you say a five hundred,
is that like a wet, dry paper.
Speaker 12 (39:43):
Yeah, but I don't unless he has a really deep
gouge in there, I would say just take the polishing
the cerium oxide, gotcha, and start with that. If he's
got to go deeper, he might want to use a
five hundred grid, stand up to a thousand in grid, okay,
and then use the serium offside for a final classic.
Speaker 1 (40:05):
Excellent, excellent. Hey, thank you so much, Frank, I really
appreciate it. Thank you.
Speaker 12 (40:11):
You're welcome that I can help.
Speaker 1 (40:13):
Yeah, you're quite welcome, Thank you, Bye bye, all right,
good good. We got some answers there and I learned
something serium oxide. How about that? All right? Anthony?
Speaker 11 (40:22):
Welcome, Hey James, you love your show. Thanks listen. I
got a problem. Unfortunately, I did some cocky overcock in
the shower, and I didn't do a very good job.
And it looks like I've got mold down in the
(40:44):
there's a there's a slight crack on the ceramic towel
and the cocking, and it looks like there's mold down
in the cockying. So I'm probably going to have to
remove all that cocking. Yeah, and then uh clean it,
and then I needed a good mold treatment.
Speaker 1 (41:07):
Yeah yeah, Okay, got you covered. So you said you overcock,
so you didn't remove the calking originally. Is that true?
Speaker 11 (41:16):
That's correct?
Speaker 1 (41:16):
Okay, so let's get it all out of there. Yeap,
you got to you gotta remove that because quite honestly,
cocking the adhesion really takes place between say the tub
or shower pan and the bottom of the tile. It's
not used as a band aid, and there are mold
resistance calking. But if you go over a old, old
(41:38):
cocking that has mold or the crevice where the mold
is down into the crevice, it'll grow through the calking.
It's really weird. Monk can grow through the cocking. And
what the guarantee is that mold doesn't start on the
surface of the calking. But if you've got a problem
behind the wall, and sometimes we do, you know we're
(41:59):
maybe missing outing and water gets down behind the wall,
that mole will grow right through the calking. So we
got to get all that out, and that's always a challenge.
There is molt. There is cock remover that's out on
the market. It doesn't remove it, but it does soften
it and helps you remove it. So take that for
(42:19):
what it's worth. I would use that, and I would
get a cock removing knife, which is usually a piece
of hard plastic about eight inches long with a hook
on it, and you can use that in a single
head razor blade to kind of cut into that and
get that hook behind it. It gets into that crevice
and you can pull that calking out. I'm not going
(42:40):
to say easily, but you can pull that cocking out. Yeah,
it's it's not hateful.
Speaker 11 (42:46):
Once we get I was thinking I wouldn't have to
use a you know, a large razor blade scraper, and.
Speaker 1 (42:53):
Just right you can cut down and wall to tub,
tub to wall, and then again if you can get
one of those cockery moving knives and get that down
in that crevice, you can pull that out. Once you
get it out, you want to take rubbing alcohol and
a cloth or a spray bottle and spray rubbing rubbing
(43:15):
alcohol back in there. It'll dry it out. You can
use Q tips, you can use a rag, you can
use whatever and get as much of that mold and
mildew out of there. The rubbing alcohol kind of sterilize
things and it'll be a good bondable surface. And then
get a product like DAP quick Seal. It is an acrylic,
(43:38):
it contains microband it's the one that's warranted against mold
and mildew. And if you did a good job at
cleaning that out in that crevice, you should be good
to go.
Speaker 11 (43:48):
So I don't need to get a mold treatment dry.
Speaker 1 (43:53):
No, just get it good and dry and use the
rubbing alcohol. A lot of those directions will be right
on the tuba talking to so yeah, get it out,
get it clean with like a rubbing alcohol. Maybe even
fill up the tub a little bit halfway with water
that creates weight and pulls the tub down. And make
(44:14):
sure it's good and dry. That's the key. Rubbing alcohol,
help it dry. Rubbing alcohol dries fast, and then apply
your cocky. All right, thank you about Anthony. I appreciate it.
Good luck with that project, and when we come back,
we'll take your calls. It's eight hundred eight two three
eight two five five. You're at home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 6 (44:50):
Start a project and don't know how to finish it?
Call Gary and one eight hundred eighty two three talk.
You're at home with Gary. Solivator identific
Well, it's the weekend. Welcome you're at Home with Gary
Sullivan as well. I'll take you through another weekend. Glad
you could joined me. And by the way, this hour
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Home with Gary Sullivan. All right, we're kind of on
a tangent, and it was a good tangent. We were
talking about patching cracks, dings, dents and wallboards. We were
(01:43):
talking about spacling. We're talking about joint compounds, talking about
priming it, talking about painting over it, But what about
the hole in the wall. You know, it used to
be a pretty standard way of taking care of that
was a couple ways. You could take a piece of cardboard,
(02:05):
you would cut it about the size of the hole.
You'd puncture a little hole in it. You'd tie a
little string, knock behind it, shove it in the hole,
pull it out, and that would give you the backing
to make that patch. Maybe with a like something like
a drawer rock, which is a powder. It's mixed with water.
(02:28):
It actually cures, it hard hardens, and you make that
patch that way. Or take a piece of drywall, cut
it through the size and you would cut the back
of the gypsum. You would trim that to the hole.
So you're kind of creating a plug and you would
just plug it. I say, just you got to be
(02:48):
kind of precise. Plug it and square up the hole
in the wall. Cut the back of the drywall, and
you're gonna just push that in. The paper's going to
be on the outside. You can mud and then feather
edge that in. That's the way that standard way of
patching a hole in drywall. Now now there's a new
(03:10):
product out which is very cool. I got introduced to
it about probably about two years ago, relatively new on
the market, made by DAP. And it's called Eclipse. That's
what this patch is called. How would you feel if
I told you you can patch that hole in the
(03:30):
wall without any patch, without any dura rock, without any
backer rod, without anything, but this product called Eclipse. And
what Eclipse is is it is a circular I'm gonna
(03:52):
call it a circular band aid, all right. It's circular.
It's probably, I don't know, a nine inch in diameter,
So it doesn't matter whether it's the size of a doorknob,
the size of a fist, the size of a knee.
Will stop there. So you get a hole in the drywall,
you can take this Eclipse and it's gosh, you know
(04:15):
what it feels like. It feels like almost like a
plastic type reinforced parchment paper. You may say, well, what's
that feel like? I don't, but that's what it feels
like to me. And you peel off the back of
this patch and you just press it over the existing hole.
(04:39):
It's real solid, it's taut, and it's paintable. You notice
we didn't put anything in that hole, and we don't
put anything in that hole. We take this eclipse, this
band aid, this wall band aid, and we put it
(05:00):
over the hole. And all we're gonna do at this
point is paint it. It's very thin, and you're gonna
put about two, maybe i'd say three coats of paint
over this patch. And with today's good quality paints, thick
(05:24):
paints the edge of this eclipse, which is very thin,
about the thickness of a paper piece of paper, it
will make that as smooth as can be. And with
the paint on their it'll make that patch rigid. If
you ever get a chance, go ahead and try it.
(05:46):
It's not cheape, I think. I think it's like nine bucks,
nine ten bucks, maybe eight to ten bucks, we'll say.
And you get about three of those patches in there,
so if you don't lose the other two, you can
save them for another day. Really a cool product, well
(06:08):
worth the money. I'll take three dollars a patch, right,
there's three dollars worth of frustration doing it the other way.
But I wanted to let you know that that is
out on the market. A lot of big box stores,
independent hardware stores will carry that, so it's called Eclipse.
It's made by DAP. You can check it out on
(06:29):
our website. All right, our phone number is eight hundred
eight two three eight two five five. You can grab
a line. Sam welcome.
Speaker 2 (06:37):
All right, Yes, sir, Yeah, I got a question about
my conditioning unit.
Speaker 3 (06:43):
I said it at sixty eight degrees, and then I
leave the house and I come back and like my
floors in my house, I guess you got converensation on it,
and the seems not staying at sixty eight degrees. So
I'm trying to figure out why nice seems not keeping
(07:03):
the moisture out of my house.
Speaker 1 (07:06):
Well, I I that's Do you know what kind of
humidity you're running in that house?
Speaker 2 (07:13):
No, I don't know that.
Speaker 1 (07:15):
I just I think that's where I'll go.
Speaker 4 (07:18):
I'll turn term step back down to like fifty five,
and then the temperature slowly starts going back down. You
know it'll because it's like one hundred and fifteen degrees
over here in Oklahoma.
Speaker 1 (07:29):
Well, that's what I was just getting ready to ask you,
is what the outdoor temperature is. So there's about you know,
you can comfortably run an air conditioner to lower the
temperature about twenty to twenty five degrees, and my guess
is that's what's causing the compensations. The outside temperature so hot.
(07:49):
The more you if you don't turn it down real low,
it's not going to take out all the humidity. And
then you turn it down real low and it might
take out the humidity, but it's not going to last
there for long. How is it at night? There's a
couple of things I want to know. First is does
it quit doing that at night when the outdoor temperatures
(08:13):
cool off a little bit. I mean, we have extreme
conditions that this thing's running in right now. That would
be question number one. Is your fan on on or
is it on auto? That's a question I have. Also,
it's on the auto.
Speaker 4 (08:29):
And at night time?
Speaker 3 (08:30):
Yeah, nighttime it runs at sixty eight degrees, No problem,
it doesn't. The temperature doesn't fluctuate, it nothing.
Speaker 1 (08:37):
Right because the outside temperature is dropped right.
Speaker 3 (08:42):
Yeah, it's just during the day because I got an
floors I'll come home and it's like eighty degrees in
the house. R But I got the thermosass that at
like sixty eight.
Speaker 1 (08:52):
Well, it just can't keep up, That's what I'm saying.
It if it is truly one hundred and fifteen degrees
and you got said sixty eight, it's it's not gonna
keep it at sixty eight, period.
Speaker 2 (09:04):
So how do I how do I get it the
esthetic tolor during the day.
Speaker 1 (09:10):
It's it's it's not going. What I'm saying is it's
just not going to cool that house down to sixty
eight when it's one hundred and fifteen degrees. You know,
you only have that problem when it's that extremely hot.
It's not designed to do that again at best thirty degrees.
(09:34):
You said it at seventy it's one hundred degrees outside,
it's gonna be able to hold it at seventy. If
it's one hundred and fifteen out there, No, it's not
gonna hold it. It's gonna it's gonna go up. You're
gonna have humidity inside that house because when it's just
(09:55):
it's just not going to be able to hold all
that moisture in air. It's gonna create sensation on hard,
slick surfaces. And I'm guessing that floor you're talking about
is a ceramic floor, a slick, hard surface. Yeah, yeah,
I would find out what your humidity is. I mean,
you could try and air do you midifier? I'm sure
(10:18):
other people are experiencing the same things that you're experiencing.
And again it involves whether it's an air conditioner, Sam,
I don't know. You might want to call a tech
out to take a look at it and see if
(10:39):
there's any adjustments on the fans that can happen. But really,
when you think about it's also about the sizing of
the air conditioner. It's about how energy efficient to home is.
Warm air can hold more humidity than cool air. So
if you have how maybe that isn't super efficient in
(11:03):
terms of energy savings. We have really warm humid air
that's entering that house, and you know, eighty degrees is
cool compared to what we have outside, and that air
conditioning is going to shed that moisture that's in that
heated air. That's why it's a relative humidity. At night,
(11:26):
maybe it only drops down to seventy five, maybe not
till maybe it's eighty degrees. But if it's eighty degrees
in human you got said sixty eight, it's well within
range to cool that and take the humidity out. The
air conditioner is a great deumidifier, So what I'm saying
is because of that range, and check with your AC guy.
(11:50):
Because of that range, you might need a little help
from like a deumidifier.
Speaker 2 (11:57):
Okay, all right, all right, thank you mm.
Speaker 1 (12:01):
Hm take care. One other thing I would add to
that too is get a humidity gauge. Let's find out
what that is. Make sure that we're running the bathroom
fans exhausted. Try to make it easy on that air conditioners.
You can run that fan, uh, you know after the shower,
during the shower, for like a half hour after the shower.
(12:21):
That will help. Also, we'll continue with your calls. Eight
hundred eight two three eight two five five. You're at
home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 5 (12:30):
It's the weekend and you have fixed questions.
Speaker 6 (12:32):
Give Gary a call at one eight hundred eight two
three talk.
Speaker 5 (12:36):
This is at home with Gary Sullivant.
Speaker 1 (12:54):
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(13:15):
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(13:59):
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(14:20):
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(15:16):
We go at Home with Gary Sullivan talking a little
home improvement. Our phone number if you'd like to join,
it's eight hundred and eight two three eight two five
five and don welcome.
Speaker 7 (15:28):
Hey, good morning Gary. In reference to the gentleman who
you just talked to about one hundred and fifteen degree temperature,
house is full of humidity. I have a possible solution
to his problem. He should check his condensate drain. If
that is plugged, that's going to keep all that moisture
in that evaporator and that fans is going to keep
(15:48):
blowing moisture through the air. That's one thing. The other
thing is he should have a professional come and check
the high and low side pressures in that and make
sure he has a correct amount of free on. I
got to say, and a great day.
Speaker 1 (16:01):
Okay, all right, don thank you. Those are two great tips.
In fact, Danny and I were even chatting after the
break and we were talking, you know, even dirty filters.
That was another one. I did think about the common
Say tube when I was going to the break. That's
certainly another thing. There's quite a few things. Really. I
struggled with this, Maybe not as extreme as his was,
(16:26):
but I struggled with it getting the humidity correct in
my home. My common Say tube wasn't clogged. But what
I did have is I had the fan on on
and the coils never really had a chance to dry
and was blowing that moist air back in through the house.
(16:47):
So changing from and I asked him what he had
it on. He said he had it on auto, which
would be correct. I had mine on which was not correct.
On's fine in the winter time, but not so great
in the summer was real hot. And I made that
adjustment and it really helped a bunch. I mean it
(17:10):
significantly helped. I also did call an ac tech to
come out and check the free ons, which was fine,
but there was he had the ability to change and
I don't the time that the fan ran and the
(17:34):
speed that the fan ran. That was helpful also and
got it under control. So it is a combination of
a few things. A couple of things he mentioned absolutely
spot on, and certainly thank him for making that call. Also,
even just checking on the outside of the home. It
needs if there's a heat pump outside, it needs good airflow.
(17:57):
We also see that especially this time year, or even
early in the year, if people haven't had it serviced annually,
where the bushes grow over and tightly around the unit outside,
or grass clippings are blown and they're stuck in the
(18:19):
fins of the unit outside possible just cleaning will even help.
So there's quite a few things. One of the things
I'm a big advocate of and I lived it when
I really didn't have the money the knowledge I could
do some of it, not all of it, of having
(18:41):
them that unit, that air conditioning, that furnace maintained seasonally.
If you talk to any technician, I've talked to plenty
of them on this show, I'll ask them when people
call you when it's really extreme temperatures and their unit
is broke down, what's the percent of units that are
broken down that aren't serviced annually? And I can't remember
(19:06):
what they told me. I can tell you it was
over fifty percent, and I'm thinking more like seventy percent.
But if you service it annually, that's going to help you. Also,
don't think it isn't uh. They're going to check those
things and maintain those levels and take care of the
problems before they happen. Another thing to think about. All right,
(19:27):
it's eight hundred eight two three eight two five five.
That's the number. You can join us. We're talking home
improvement and you're at home with Gary Celibator.
Speaker 6 (19:42):
Takes it right with a call to Gary Celibate at
one eight hundred eighty two three talk.
Speaker 5 (19:47):
This is at Home with Gary Celibator.
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(22:33):
right back at it we go thirty three minutes after
the top of the air talking a little home improvement
on your weekend. If you'd like to join us, love
to chat with you. It's eight hundred eight two three
eight two five five. Feel free to grab a line.
And we got Dan Dan Welcome. Hi.
Speaker 8 (22:50):
I question about a window sash, and in particular the
window itself, the glazing. I was refinishing the sash, taking
him down to Bearwood restaining revarnishing, and I think I
got distracted. I said an orbital standard down on top
of the glass. It was towards the end of its cycle,
but it still scratched the glass.
Speaker 9 (23:12):
And I don't really want to replace the entire glazing
itself because it's a twenty six year old window. It's
not that noticeable, but it's more of an irritant. And
I've asked the glass shop and they want to replace
the entire glazing. Same with another shop. They did say
there was something I could use, but it would kind
(23:32):
of make a distortion in the glass, and I just thought, well,
a distortion is better than a obvious mar and abrasion.
So I didn't know if you had a good answer
for I've seen some things on the web. It's a
you know, a buffing compound of some kind that.
Speaker 1 (23:48):
You know, uge or something along those lines.
Speaker 7 (23:52):
Yeah, it was a powder.
Speaker 9 (23:53):
It wasn't Jeweler's rouge, but it was that kind of thing.
Speaker 1 (23:56):
Yeah, yeah, And you probably just spoke about as much
as I know about that. There is a polishing compound,
and you know a lot of imperfections on glass and things.
A person that would just clean windows would just use
a soap solution and a steel wool actually like a
three out or four steel wool. But it's not going
(24:18):
to be enough to remove scratches in glass, would be
my assumption, even though it's a mild scratch. I know
there are buffing compounds. I've never used one for glass,
and it does make sense to me that there would
be distortions. Remember, glasses actually considered a liquid, but that
(24:43):
liquid can scratch too, So I don't know if it
would be better. You know that distortion would be better
in a scratch. I can't see the scratch, and I
don't know what a distortion would look like. It might
be something that if you went to a glass shop,
if they could maybe test a pattern, uh, you know
(25:08):
where they use that compound on a piece of glass,
so you can determine. So you got something to compare.
Speaker 8 (25:16):
Yeah, yeah, that's a good idea.
Speaker 1 (25:18):
But all right, well be it for me on that yeah,
inside of replacing the glass.
Speaker 8 (25:23):
All right, Well, if I have any if I have
any luck, I'll call you back and let you know
how it turned out.
Speaker 1 (25:27):
All right, Yeah, I appreciate that. Thank you, take care.
All right, then let's go to Tony. Tony welcome, Thank
you for taking my call.
Speaker 4 (25:38):
Gary.
Speaker 1 (25:39):
Yes, I have two problems.
Speaker 10 (25:42):
I have a ninety three Ford explore. The rear bumper
is rushing from the back of the bumper forward and
it's solid, a solid bumper.
Speaker 11 (25:55):
It's not the.
Speaker 10 (25:58):
Crash resistant guy. There's small cracks that look like rust
coming through. They vary from an inch to maybe three inches.
There's a couple of them, and I was wondering if
I need to if you have any suggestions on how
to handle the issue.
Speaker 1 (26:18):
Well, I can handle the back part of that bumper
where it's actually coming through. Is that a chrome bumper
on there where it's cracking the chrome plating? Yes, yeah, see,
I can neutralize the rust on the backside, but I
don't know if it's going to neutralize the rust all
the way through the metal to keep it from cracking
(26:40):
the chrome. All right, So there's a couple of things.
There is the people that make blaster They make a
rust removing compound that is liquid and it has to
be sprayed and soaked, so that might be a little difficult.
(27:05):
There's also one and you could go to Blastercorp dot
com and kind of read about that particular product on
i'm Another one you could try is there's a product
called rust neutralizer. Rusts neutralizer is a chemical that reacts
(27:26):
with iron oxide and it creates a chemical reaction and
turns the rust black and seals the rust into the metal.
And now you know why. I don't know how far
it seals the rust in. Does it get all the
way through the metal? I doubt it. I don't know.
I don't know. I do know it'll stop it from
(27:48):
rusting that it is sprayed on, but I don't know
about the whole ordeal of being on the other side
where it's actually cracking the plating off the metal.
Speaker 10 (28:01):
I was thinking of maybe taking something sharp and kind
of scratching some of the chrome off and maybe I
can neutralize it that way.
Speaker 1 (28:09):
Well, you might be able to do that. I mean
you if the rust is exposed. I don't have any
problem with it or with saying that it would work.
So this chemical when it comes in contact with iron oxide,
it creates a chemical direction and seals the rust in.
Speaker 10 (28:29):
So is it is it something that waterproof or do
I need to paint or no?
Speaker 1 (28:34):
It can function as a primer. Actually, so do this.
You're gonna have to do a little more homework. I
don't have all the answers for you. You can go
to Blaster corpcrp dot com take a look at their
rusty moving product. They have it for like tools that
(28:56):
rust where you actually soak like saw blades in to
a pool of this. They have a couple of products
that I'd want you to read about to see if
you can see if that would help you or not.
The other one, I think a rust neutralizer is now
owned by Rustolium. You probably find that on their website.
(29:21):
You can find it in auto shops, you can find
it in hardware stores, and it will neutralize rust as
well as it comes in contact. And then maybe you
could you know, rather than plating, I don't know, can
you get a chrome touch up where you could put
that over it? If you wanted to rather than they
have a black streak. That might be an option also.
Speaker 10 (29:44):
And I assume when I put on the neutralizer, I
have to remove it excess scally rust.
Speaker 1 (29:52):
I try to remove as much as you can, yes,
because you know, I mean if it's scaling and flaking
and even falling off. I'm not saying you gotta get
in there with a wire brush, but I would get
as much of the crustation of the rust off as
you can to you actually have a you know, a
(30:13):
field of rust and not where it's breaking off the
metal itself.
Speaker 11 (30:19):
Copy that, all right.
Speaker 10 (30:21):
My other issue is I have some aluminum sighting on
my house and it's twenty five years old de siding
and starting to see the metal right quite paint or
whatever is solely oxidized off. Correct, I just repainted.
Speaker 1 (30:41):
Yeah, you can repaint metal sighting for sure. In fact,
you can even repaint vinyl sighting as it oxidizes and fades.
Now you've got to get as much of the oxidized
paint off as you can. I do know. Sherman Williams
actually has a product I can't think of the name
of it where it'll help remove the oxidized paint back
(31:05):
in the day. I know, the first house I bought
had white steel sighting I think it was aluminum sighting,
white aluminum sighting on it, and it had oxidized to
a point where it's almost gray. And I'd washed that
house down with tri sodium phosphate and water and rinse
(31:28):
the heck of it, and part of that house looked
like an American Airlines plane. I mean it took took
the rest of it off right and a lot of places,
and it really removed a lot of the oxidation. And
I paint primed and painted. When I sold it, it
was still going strong. When I drive by it, it
(31:48):
was still going strong. I'll bet that paint lasts another
twenty years.
Speaker 10 (31:54):
That's why I want.
Speaker 1 (31:55):
And that was a long time ago. Paints have improved
dramatically since then. So I think if you use you know,
their remover for oxidized paints, or use tri sodium phosphate
and you know, get all that or get as much
that oxidation off as you can. Use a good acrylic
house paint primer and followed up with their top of
(32:15):
the line like their Emerald paint with UH with a primer,
so you're gonna have like two coats of primer if
you will, and code with that. I think you'd be
good to go. I think we look a brand new
get you do it in flat too, because if it's
metal siding, you got dings and dents there, and that
flat won't you know, call attention to those dings and dents.
Speaker 10 (32:41):
And the sighting is also in Okay, a couple of
instances above the brick, and I assume the tri solium
phosphate is not going to stain the.
Speaker 1 (32:52):
Brick, Well, the trisodium phosphate won't stain the brick, the
actual uh oxidation of the paint may, so you'd want
to keep wetting that down.
Speaker 10 (33:06):
Because it's already kind.
Speaker 1 (33:07):
Of sure exactly.
Speaker 10 (33:09):
The brick from all the years.
Speaker 1 (33:11):
Absolutely called chalking. Those sighting paints were designed to be
self cleansing, so they they purposefully chalked. And you drive
through neighborhoods where homes were built in the forties, and
I guarantee you there'll be a lot of white paint
(33:31):
on the side of red brick homes.
Speaker 10 (33:34):
Would you try s take off the chalking or is
it just going to be there?
Speaker 1 (33:38):
Well, Umm, you can try it. I'm not going to
guarantee that. There's different house wash companies like Great American
and things like that that do have a chemical solution
and they use a hot water uh pressure washing system
that will remove that.
Speaker 10 (34:00):
All right.
Speaker 1 (34:01):
There's also Dumont Chemical You're gonna hear a lot about
in the next year or so. I actually have a
call with the president of the company this week. If
I'm not mistaken. They have a graffiti and uh paint
oxidation removing product which I'll learn more about this week
(34:23):
and pass that on next week.
Speaker 10 (34:26):
Very good. I will definitely listen.
Speaker 1 (34:28):
Very good for your help. Thanks tonypreciate it. You bet
take care all right. Uh we got open lines, which
means you can dial in. I invite you to do so.
Danny's ready to take your call our phone number eight
hundred eight two three eight two five five. And you're
at home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 6 (34:48):
Help for your home is just a click away at
Garysullivan online dot com.
Speaker 5 (34:53):
This is at home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 1 (35:11):
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(37:28):
home with Gary Salvin working our way through the weekend.
Thanks for joining me, and let's get back to the
phone calls. We got Frank Frank, welcome.
Speaker 12 (37:38):
Hi Gary, Yes, good, A solution for your gentlemen who
accidentally sanded his glass window.
Speaker 1 (37:45):
Great and wanted to fix it up.
Speaker 12 (37:47):
I'm a bit of an amateur gem cutter, okay. And
what he needs to do is take some serium oxide
powder and that's pretty readily available onlinem Oxidekay. It's optical
grade polishing. It's what they used to polish glasses, et cetera,
et cetera. So you mix it with a little bit
(38:09):
of water into a paste, and you use a salt
buff and you just keep buffing and applying the compound
until you get total clarity in the scratch. I don't
know how deep his scratches are, whether he was using
you know, eighty grids sandpaper or five hundred grid, so
he may have to apply it for a while.
Speaker 1 (38:31):
Yeah. Yeah, So a couple of questions, and thank you
for that. I appreciate. I knew somebody was going to
know the answer to that, umm, because I was thinking
glass does get buffed out a lot in je Yeah, certainly,
so I knew there'd be an answer, but I had
no idea. So he said to me, and you know,
take it for what it's worth. That it's not real noticeable,
(38:55):
but he knows it's there. And when he took it
to the glass shop, you heard it. They said there
was something there, but it would become distorted. What you're
saying is you can do it by hand and we
can eliminate the distortion.
Speaker 12 (39:11):
Absolutely, no distortion, no nothing. It's a part of the
polishing process. You gradually go from you know whatever it is,
a five hundred grid maybe to one thousand grid as
you're polishing a gem, and then your final which puts
that glass like finish on, is the serium oxide power.
Speaker 10 (39:30):
Uh?
Speaker 1 (39:30):
Okay. So when you say you're teaching me, so I
apologize for the calls. But when you say a five hundred,
is that like a wet, dry paper.
Speaker 12 (39:43):
Yeah, but I don't unless he has a really deep
gouge in there, I would say just take the polishing
the cerium oxide, gotcha, and start with that. If he's
got to go deeper, he might want to use a
five hundred grid, stand up to a thousand in grid, okay,
and then use the serium offside for a final classic.
Speaker 1 (40:05):
Excellent, excellent. Hey, thank you so much, Frank, I really
appreciate it. Thank you.
Speaker 12 (40:11):
You're welcome that I can help.
Speaker 1 (40:13):
Yeah, you're quite welcome, Thank you, Bye bye, all right,
good good. We got some answers there and I learned
something serium oxide. How about that? All right? Anthony?
Speaker 11 (40:22):
Welcome, Hey James, you love your show. Thanks listen. I
got a problem. Unfortunately, I did some cocky overcock in
the shower, and I didn't do a very good job.
And it looks like I've got mold down in the
(40:44):
there's a there's a slight crack on the ceramic towel
and the cocking, and it looks like there's mold down
in the cockying. So I'm probably going to have to
remove all that cocking. Yeah, and then uh clean it,
and then I needed a good mold treatment.
Speaker 1 (41:07):
Yeah yeah, Okay, got you covered. So you said you overcock,
so you didn't remove the calking originally. Is that true?
Speaker 11 (41:16):
That's correct?
Speaker 1 (41:16):
Okay, so let's get it all out of there. Yeap,
you got to you gotta remove that because quite honestly,
cocking the adhesion really takes place between say the tub
or shower pan and the bottom of the tile. It's
not used as a band aid, and there are mold
resistance calking. But if you go over a old, old
(41:38):
cocking that has mold or the crevice where the mold
is down into the crevice, it'll grow through the calking.
It's really weird. Monk can grow through the cocking. And
what the guarantee is that mold doesn't start on the
surface of the calking. But if you've got a problem
behind the wall, and sometimes we do, you know we're
(41:59):
maybe missing outing and water gets down behind the wall,
that mole will grow right through the calking. So we
got to get all that out, and that's always a challenge.
There is molt. There is cock remover that's out on
the market. It doesn't remove it, but it does soften
it and helps you remove it. So take that for
(42:19):
what it's worth. I would use that, and I would
get a cock removing knife, which is usually a piece
of hard plastic about eight inches long with a hook
on it, and you can use that in a single
head razor blade to kind of cut into that and
get that hook behind it. It gets into that crevice
and you can pull that calking out. I'm not going
(42:40):
to say easily, but you can pull that cocking out. Yeah,
it's it's not hateful.
Speaker 11 (42:46):
Once we get I was thinking I wouldn't have to
use a you know, a large razor blade scraper, and.
Speaker 1 (42:53):
Just right you can cut down and wall to tub,
tub to wall, and then again if you can get
one of those cockery moving knives and get that down
in that crevice, you can pull that out. Once you
get it out, you want to take rubbing alcohol and
a cloth or a spray bottle and spray rubbing rubbing
(43:15):
alcohol back in there. It'll dry it out. You can
use Q tips, you can use a rag, you can
use whatever and get as much of that mold and
mildew out of there. The rubbing alcohol kind of sterilize
things and it'll be a good bondable surface. And then
get a product like DAP quick Seal. It is an acrylic,
(43:38):
it contains microband it's the one that's warranted against mold
and mildew. And if you did a good job at
cleaning that out in that crevice, you should be good
to go.
Speaker 11 (43:48):
So I don't need to get a mold treatment dry.
Speaker 1 (43:53):
No, just get it good and dry and use the
rubbing alcohol. A lot of those directions will be right
on the tuba talking to so yeah, get it out,
get it clean with like a rubbing alcohol. Maybe even
fill up the tub a little bit halfway with water
that creates weight and pulls the tub down. And make
(44:14):
sure it's good and dry. That's the key. Rubbing alcohol,
help it dry. Rubbing alcohol dries fast, and then apply
your cocky. All right, thank you about Anthony. I appreciate it.
Good luck with that project, and when we come back,
we'll take your calls. It's eight hundred eight two three
eight two five five. You're at home with Gary Sullivan.
Speaker 6 (44:50):
Start a project and don't know how to finish it?
Call Gary and one eight hundred eighty two three talk.
You're at home with Gary. Solivator identific
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